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  1. We are after as many aquarium plant images that we can get, doing so will assist us in completing the aquarium plant database.

    https://barrreport.com/threads/aquatic-plant-images-wanted.14374/
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Hi there, I'm the Noob, a little guidance welcome :)

Discussion in 'Are you new to aquatic plants? Start here' started by kjr928, Nov 26, 2012.

  1. kjr928

    kjr928 Junior Poster

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    Hi everyone, I've been keeping fish for about 7 years now and I'm just starting to venture into planted aquariums.
    I have a 90g with pressurized CO2 coming in through my powerhead, about 216W light, a couple of anubias floating around the tank (at least I think that's what they are).

    I just ordered plants tonight (over 70 total):
    1 Riccia Fluitan
    15 Ludwigia, Broad Leaf (Ludwigia repens)
    5 Ludwigia, Narrow Leaf (Ludwigia palustris)
    6 Bacopa monnieri
    8 Ceratophyllum demersum (Hornwort)
    5 Egeria densa (Elodea)
    10 Golden Creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia)
    2 Microsorium brassii (Needle Leaf Java Fern)
    4 Sagittaria subulata
    1 Heteranthera dubia (Grassleaf plantain)
    15 Vallisneria spiralis (Italian)
    1 Crinum "Dwarf" onion plant (Zephyranthes candida)

    So I'm really just going off the deep end with this - I am definitely the type of person who learns better in drips and drabs with advice and experience rather than reading a textbook. I've been having trouble learning about ferts and specifically what the purpose of each one is for (having a tough time finding the information). So far the only advice I have gotten is to keep the lights on for 8-10 hours a day and the CO2 at 1-2 bubbles/minute. Right now I'm getting some brown algae on the glass, which I'm *assuming* is because I don't have enough plants yet (?)

    So, some advice on ferts would be appreciated as I'm totally clueless with that, and anything else I'm doing wrong - please let me know! I'm looking forward to learning the balance of light & CO2 & ferts.
    Thanks!
     
  2. dutchy

    dutchy Plant Guru Team
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    Hi,

    As for the limited info there is, I can only tell you that with the amount of light you have, CO2 will be too low. You should be thinking more of 2 bubbles per second, not per minute. the total amount of light is too high also, better to start with less watts or raise them around 10 inch.
     
  3. kjr928

    kjr928 Junior Poster

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    Hi & thanks for your response.

    So, for now would you recommend turning off one of my lights to have the level at 108W AND also increasing my CO2?
    When I receive & plant all the plants I ordered and put them in, should I increase these levels?

    Is there anything in particular I need to do or any changes I need to make once I plant all these plants? Thanks for your help, I can't wait to learn more about keeping a planted tank.

    Where are you from in NL? My husband is from Lelystad :)
     
  4. dutchy

    dutchy Plant Guru Team
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    Just decrease light and raise CO2. Pls do it carefully, don't kill your fish. Keep the two bulbs centered to get enough light through the whole tank. That will be ok for now, even with the new plants.

    Measure pH and KH to get some CO2 ppm reading or use a drop checker.

    I'm from The Hague, btw.
     
  5. kjr928

    kjr928 Junior Poster

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    Also, I know I said 1-2 bubble/minute earlier, but I meant 1-2 per second (which is what I've been putting in there). Thanks!
     
  6. Gerryd

    Gerryd Plant Guru Team
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    Hi and welcome,

    Ferts are really easy, esp compared to c02 :)

    There is a sub forum for the Estimative Index but this thread is a good read:

    http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/2819-EI-light-for-those-less-techy-folks

    Think of ferts as macros and micros. Macros are nitrate, phosphate, pottasium and the like (NPK). Micros are iron, boron, zinc, magnesium, etc. EI is simply dosing MORE THAN enough of these ferts to ensure NO LIMITATION.

    Many of us purchase dry ferts (ask dutchy for where), measure with a teaspoon set (mine cost .99), mix with water, and dump in the tank. So easy even I could do it LOL Then we do a min 50% water change weekly to ensure NO excessive/harmful buildup. That said, it will take a LOT of these ferts to cause an issue.

    This will allow you to focus on c02 and growing your plants w/o trying to diagnose an iron or phosphate deficieny for example.

    Hope this helps.
     
  7. kevmo911

    kevmo911 Member

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    Normally, I'd say that how many bubbles per second one person uses is completely useless information because of the huge number of variables from one tank to another. However, in your 90g tank, regardless of bubble counter orifice size, amount of surface agitation, diffusion method, or anything else ...two bubbles per second is doing little to nothing on something that size.

    I agree with the previous posts, and want to add only that when you begin to increase your CO2 toward the 30ppm range, you're going to *really* increase your CO2. The CO2 flow you've got now is likely a small fraction of what you'd ideally want.
     
  8. dutchy

    dutchy Plant Guru Team
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    True, bubble rate is useless, but you have to start somewhere. Even CO2 system manufacturers describe starting with a bubble rate of x bubbles.

    If someone needs light for an aquarium, are you going to tell him to start with 1,5 wpg or with 50 mmols at substrate level ;)
     
  9. kjr928

    kjr928 Junior Poster

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    Hi,

    I just planted my tank tonight - it looks a heck of a lot better but still have a long way to go I think. (Before and after pic attached)
    I ordered a drop checker that should be here next week and I will also try to figure out my CO2 with kh & ph measurements. I will try to keep it at 30ppm. Should I expect the CO2 to fluctuate (lower at night when everything is off?) What is the best time to check my measurements?

    So this might seem like a dumb question but I was wondering about the best placement for my powerhead. Right now I have the CO2 coming in through there. I covered the intake with mesh because it kept sucking up gunk from the tank and getting clogged (not to mention the fact that it's sucked up a couple of my fish and killed them -that thing is STRONG when it's going full speed). If the powerhead keeps slowing down because of clogging, should I get one of those glass disperser things?

    Anyway the powerhead is pretty close to the top of the tank near the intake for my filter. So I was thinking that maybe I should move it to the other side of the tank where the return is for the filter and also move it lower so that the bubbles have more time before they reach the top (?)

    Sorry for the stupid questions, I'm just trying to get everything right and I don't know what I'm doing!
    Kate

    [attachment=1334:name]

    tank.jpg
     
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