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Hello There!

Discussion in 'Introductions' started by X3NiTH, Jul 3, 2018.

  1. X3NiTH

    X3NiTH New Member

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    Hello everyone, about time I joined. There are a few others from UKAPS over here also so thought I would do the same.

    :)
     
    burr740 likes this.
  2. burr740

    burr740 Micros Spiller
    Staff Member Moderator

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    Good to see you made it. :)

    What kind of tank(s) do you have?
     
  3. X3NiTH

    X3NiTH New Member

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    Thanks!

    Currently have four tanks, my main tank (largest) is a 28L Aquastart 320 (cube foot) that's been heavily modified and upgraded over the years, high tech affair currently full of Buce (Theia Blue, Motleyana Green, Cherry Red, these are all from Tissue Culture stocks (Tropica and Aquafleur varieties) there was many more rare wild types but that was a saga or so ago), various Java ferns, couple of Anubias (nana and longifloria), a Laganandra, a small patch of Bacopa mixed in with some Sagitaria Subulata, a nymphaea zenkeri, a couple crypt becketii and a large Balansae planted up in a small pot in the corner (has some soil in it, the only in this tank), get two foot trimmings from this in a cube foot tank, good shade for the Buce though which are planted up on Bogwood and sitting in about 50PAR (used rotalacalc to get these readings) under a TMC 1500ND tile set on the controller at 20% (only one set of emitters running so it's only 10% of total tile output). Substrate in this tank is Dennerle Black Shrimp Sand (inert so analogous to bdbs). This tank gets supplemental CO₂ through a Qanvee M2 inline atomiser (super robust, leagues ahead of the UP it replaced), the canister filter output it is attached to is an Eheim Pro3 250T, there's a 20" Water housing Dwell time reactor plumbed inline which feeds the Spraybar output into tank, high flow. Supplemental O₂ at night with an airstone plus extra O₂ overnight as a byproduct from using a DIY Electrocoagulation device running ten periods of six minutes each (12v 2.5A) ending just before the CO₂ comes on, plants pearl at lights on. Tank has a Perspex lid close to the water surface. The tank has dosing pumps to deliver ferts. Have a pH controller running the CO₂. 4 Purple Emperor Tetras live in this tank, Bladder and Red Ramshorn Snails also (snails in all tanks except 4).

    Tank 2 is 12L, internally filtered. Planted with Buce and Java Needle Leaf on Bogwood, dwarf hair grass, S.Repens at the back and a N.Zenkeri superglued to the Bogwood amongst the Buce. I have an emerged section at the back of this tank that sits at the rim of the tank, melted a few Buce here (roots too wet, unfortunately a thing when out the water), a piece of Anubia Longifloria is thriving here while it slowly falls apart in the 28L (I built a Perspex box enclosure kid so it's plenty humid in there). Substrate is JBL Shrimp Soil (high CEC buffering to pH 6.5, no added ferts). Light is a TMC 400 tile (in same controller as above). Added CO₂ again but not as much as the 28L, traces added by hand (it's getting one of the pumps, one I've finished testing supplemental BioCo2 (humic and fulvic acids, rebadged Microbe-Lift stuff) in the 28L). Air stone for overnight O₂ and again it has an electrocoagulation device running the same period as above. There's 5 Normans Lampeye in this tank keeping the snails company.

    Tank 3 is a 10L Dennerle Tank, JBL substrate (as above) planted with dwarf hair grass, and has some Java fern at the back, pretty uninspiring, internally filtered with a low power pump connected to a mini spraybar sited an inch below the surface to keep the flow clear from a surface layer of Salvinia Natans, the light above is a TMC 600ND strip (two emitters are directly over the water), on the controller but set at 100%. No supplemental CO₂ so no need fo air stone overnight, no gadgets in this tank. Two Glowlight tetras live in this tank because it's the only place they don't get bullied.

    Tank 4 another 12L, it is full off various species of mosses, some bog myrtle (lovely sweet smelling Scottish bog plant, midges hate it), some wild grass (found its way in and seems to like growing with its feet in water) and a nice bed of sphagnum for some Buce to grow in, an occasional woodland mushroom appears every now and again in this tank. I don't add any ferts to this tank, there's an 2 inch layer of water at the bottom full of organics that it all sits upon that I did add ferts to when first planting up last year. Tank is covered with a Perspex lid to keep the humidity up, zero devices in tank. This tank is under the same light as tank 3 except it gets three emitters above it.

    I think I've covered everything, except how I treat my water, too long winded to post just now except to say it's front loaded and custom!

    I'd love to have bigger tanks, even amalgamating the ones I have but unfortunately it's not practical at the moment (3rd floor of a 100yr old tenement and decalitres of potential flooding in one go don't really mix, especially when I seem to be able to throw water around like a duck when I'm being careful).

    I'll put up a recent pic soon, it'll probably say more than the thousand words above.

    :)
     
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  4. grobbins48

    grobbins48 New Member

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    I saw your post on tpt, and @burr740 reply. Decided to join here too!

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
     
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  5. Phishless

    Phishless Lifetime Member
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    Disgruntled forum participants from another forum I see??? :D
     
  6. X3NiTH

    X3NiTH New Member

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    Not disgruntled at all just eager to join a conversation that's schizophrenicaly split between two forums. TPT will get itself sorted eventually, you can bet there's an IT underling out there having sleepless nights chasing those gremlins, hopefully they're in an office with others so they can get the feel goods from the high fives all round when they fix it.
     
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  7. Allwissend

    Allwissend Article Editor
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    Welcome to the forum @X3NiTH and @grobbins48

    nice to have members with experience here. Hope you find the atmosphere here constructive and relaxed. Your aquariums sound interesting @X3NiTH, why not start a journal. How do you find the JBL Shrimp Soil compared to their Madano substrate (texture wise) ?

    Have fun, and if you have any photos of your plants post them to the gallery ( https://barrreport.com/gallery/categories/aquatic-plants.4/ ) so we can populate our plant database. Experience with the plants can also be submitted in the discussion section. It seems APC's plant database took a great hit and I don't know how long it takes to recover. Pity it was good content there.
     
    X3NiTH likes this.
  8. Wobblebonk

    Wobblebonk Member

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    I need another post to link images don't mind me... it says I'm at 2 of 2 but apparently I need more than 2? :eek:
     
  9. Fisherking

    Fisherking Member

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    Also newly discovered this site due to problems elsewhere. But far from disgruntled; it was a good thing to find another group and more info.
     
  10. X3NiTH

    X3NiTH New Member

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    Here's the Tanks

    [​IMG]
     
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  11. X3NiTH

    X3NiTH New Member

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    @Allwissend - Haven't tried the Madano Substrate, I have tried Fluval Stratum (Both Shrimp and Plant), that's my only comparison of prilled substrates. Stratum is much lighter than than the JBL which feels very clay like to the touch where stratum feels kind of gritty and baked, powders when compressed, the JBL is easier to plant in as its heavier, texture much nicer than stratum, feels more like like squishing soil particles, prill size is about the same as Fluval Plant Stratum, buffering capacity on the JBL is much more aggressive I found than than the Stratum, so higher CEC no doubt. Stratum OK to use with remineralised RO/DI to a level for CRS, held a buffer near 6.5, doing the same with the JBL soil caused the pH crash to 4.5 over a week or so. So I wouldn't recommend the JBL for zero KH remineralisation for CRS, it's totally fine though if your water is harder than zero KH, GH7 KH8 water gets nicely buffered to 6.8ish until it runs out of easy CEC then it acts like an inert substrate to a degree and it no longer buffers downwards to any great extent, if you keep up the weekly water changes, skip a water change or two though and the KH will slowly drop (problematic if using a CO₂ controller).

    :)
     
  12. Allwissend

    Allwissend Article Editor
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    That's a nice rack. Is that grill in the top left made of aluminum or stainless steel ?

    I'll need to try that JBL soil some times.Their clay (aquabasis I think) always produced very nice red roots with wide microhair growth... however it needs a sand cap. Yep CO2 controllers and reactive substrate is not a good idea, depends on the frequency of the water changes of course. As for the need to buffer the pH down, I find that 0KH water remains naturally acidic. If you need it more acidic shrimp King GH+ will make it :D... hard to accurately measure pH in a low EC(electrical conductivity) solution with a pH pen/probe.
     
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  13. X3NiTH

    X3NiTH New Member

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    Thanks!

    What grill? Top left tank or bottom right tank (EC device top left corner). If it's the EC device its Stainless Steel (same mesh moss comes attached to, repurposed). If it's the mesh in the top tank its PVC gutter guard which coincidentally forms the filling for the Stainless mesh sandwich EC device (anode cathode 3mm separation) and also a substrate divider in the bottom left tank between a piece of cut slate and JBL soil (using as a cap for Tropica Soil Podwer, missed that in the above description for tanks 2 and 3).

    I used Salty Shrimp Bee GH+ A lot in the past for remineralising RO/DI (similar to the Dennerle stuff) had really great success with it (used EDTA Fe + traces), don't use it anymore to remineralise but will add a pinch to the WC water to provide some chloride (actually just stopped doing this as I'm now adding chloride using straight Magnesium Chloride so I can measure the ppm of Mg instead). Not keeping shrimp anymore so don't need 0dKH, and not using EDTA, I found my Buce did much better at higher KH. So for remineralisation I am making a 25L RO/DI DIY assemble mix combining Calcium Carbonate, Magnesium Carbonate, Potassium Bicarbonate, Magnesium Sulphate, Magnesium Chloride and Calcium Nitrate.

    The Calcium and Magnesium Carbonates are reduced to Bicarbonates by adding it to refrigerated RO/DI (1L) that has been pressurised with CO₂ along with a pinch of Ascorbic Acid to increase acidity. I add all the carbonates and Ascorbic to a very fine mesh spice infusion bag (home cooking item) so that when the water is pressurised I can place the bag in the neck of the bottle and screw the cap on before shaking, otherwise if the powder hits the water without the bag the mixture it goes off like a volcano and it's a race to get the top on before it explodes everywhere (not quite sodium bicarbonate in vinegar but it gets close), after its all dissolved to bicarbonate the water takes on a milky appearance that looks flat in the bottle. I usually leave this mix overnight to fully dissolve then add it to 24L of RO/DI that I store in 25L Jerry cans, I also add the Potassium Bicarbonate, Magnesium Sulphate, Calcium Nitrate, Magnesium Chloride and Potassium Phosphate at this point, so it's all front loaded (Fe and Traces are daily added to tanks). When it comes to water change that 25L is crystal clear with zero precipitates, GH8 KH 9, has a TDS of around 140 and has approximately 30ppm of CO₂ in it so I can do water change to CO₂ added tanks when the lights are on, (serious agitation needed before using it to add it to the non supplemental CO₂ tank).

    It's a rigmarole doing it this way but it's pennies in cost compared to buying commercial mixes and I know exactly what I'm adding to the water in relation to nutrient ratios to avoid antagonism between elements (high chloride being antagonistic to no3 for example, hence no longer using Salty), but I also think it represent what's in the natural environment more accurately and I can fine tune down to specific environmental parameters if I want to, also going the DIY route for traces fits in exactly with this. Whatever the outcome in the tanks I continue to learn lots!

    :)
     
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