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Hello from Singapore

Discussion in 'Introductions' started by Robin W, Jul 15, 2017.

  1. Robin W

    Robin W New Member

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    Hello all!

    I am Robin and I am from Singapore. I have been reading the forum for a long time but have not been a member. Was trying all ways to get my tank right but failing terribly. Therefore the decision to join up and get advice and hopefully get successful and start contributing by helping others facing the same problems.

    Looking forward to interact with members old and new!

    Robin W.
     
  2. Robin W

    Robin W New Member

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    1.jpg I am now growing more algae than plants. You name it, I have it. I guess I have enough to set up a website for selling algae, much to my own dismay. As soon as i can I will upload my algae garden here! THis was a pic from last week. The algae infestation has almost tripled!
     
  3. slipfinger

    slipfinger Junior Poster

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    Welcome Robin.

    Couple of questions.

    1. How old is the tank?
    2. What is your current dosing routine?
    3. Co2 - yes/no, pressurized or low tech?
    4. Lighting - what lighting are you using and how long is your photo period?
    5. What are the tank dimensions?
     
    Robin W and DutchMuch like this.
  4. Robin W

    Robin W New Member

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    Hi Slipfinger,

    Thank you for responding. I was wondering if I should actually post this in the algae section but thanks for you offer to give advice!

    AGE
    the tank has just been resetted about 3 months ago.

    tank Juwell rekord 120
    101x31x46cm - 120 litres

    DOSING
    I am trying to estimate and dosing

    every other day
    1 cap Seachem Potassium
    1 cap Seachem Nitrogen

    Weekly dose
    1 cap Seachem Phosphrous
    1 cap seachem trace
    1 cap seachem excel

    CO2
    Dymax pressurized with DIY internal reactor (see pix 5 and 6)
    i running about 4 - 5 bps

    Light
    I using 2xbeamswork LED light for 6 hrs a day
    I suspect i have too much

    https://www.amazon.com/Beamswork-6500K-Lumen-Aquarium-Freshwater/dp/B01FVNPZLY?th=1
    I think is 4500 lumens each

    Fish/Shrimps
    13 neon tetra
    4 rummy nose tetra
    1 red molly
    about 10 amano
    1 oto

    30% water change weekly

    I think i should balance my light and CO2 well first as adviced by so many here. Still trying to figure it out though.
    Any advice is more than welcomed!

    Thanks again Slipfinger!

    Sincerely
    Robin
    5.jpg 6.jpg
     
    #4 Robin W, Jul 15, 2017
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2017
  5. DutchMuch

    DutchMuch Junior Poster

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    Think it has to do with the dosing?..
     
  6. rajkm

    rajkm Lifetime Members
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    Welcome.

    First thing I will recommend is reduce the lights. With new tanks is always best to start with lower light and slowly increase after everything has settled in. Usually take a couple of months or so.

    Next advice will be to not rely on BPS and instead us PH as a way to know how much CO2 you are adding. Usually a drop of 1 ph is the min target. 1.2 ph drop is better and more is great.

    Clean up any visible algae and treat with H2O2 or Excel. GDA you can let it sit for completing its cycle for 2-3 weeks. Thread algae you will need to pull out manually or dose Algaefix. Do 2x water changes per week for next couple of months.

    Dosing wise, I see you are using some soil. If it's Amazonia you don't need to dose for first few months. If it's heavily planted you can start dose after a few weeks.
    Dose phosphorus on same day as nitrogen. I don't see any Iron source in your dosing. You will need some of that. If you want to follow Seachem dosing routine follow their dosing calendar. Many people have good success with it.

    http://www.seachem.com/downloads/charts/Plant-Dose-Chart.pdf

    Eventually think about dry ferts since Seachem will become very expensive. You can still dose at Seachem levels but make your own solutions, or if you decide to change up you can do so.
     
    Robin W likes this.
  7. slipfinger

    slipfinger Junior Poster

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    You're already on the right track with your thinking.........

    rajkm has give good advice to start on the journey of turning the tank around for the better. I have nothing more to add other than reiterating what rajkm has already said.

    I'd hold off on the dosing until your plants start telling you they are in need of something. Aquasoil will supply most if not all the plants will need for a while, as already mentioned let the plants tell you when that is. If you haven't done so already start a journal and as you see changes in the tank post pictures so some of the more experienced poster can guide you along the way.

    Few more bigger, 60-70% water changes for a couple weeks to help fight the algae.

    Reduce the intensity of your light. Run one light for a couple hours then both lights for couple more hours and finally back to one light for the remaining photo period.

    As for Co2, get a hold of a Ph pen or monitor and start taking readings. Take a reading of fully degassed tank water. Pull some out of the tank and let it sit for 48 hours to completely degas al Co2. This will become your baseline number. Take another reading just before your Co2 comes on for the day and another just before lights come on. As rajkm has said you'd like the drop to be at least 1 point, the more the better. Then take a few readings throughout the time frame that Co2 is running. By doing all this you get an understanding of what your actual PH drop is in your tank. You'll want to watch your live stock if you have any. If you see them gasping for air at the surface time to reduce the amount of Co2 your adding.

    Finally, keep the tank clean. Remove as much algae as you can from around the tank. Cut and remove dead and dying plant material. Keep your filter clean. If you do get in and really mess around in the tank, do a water change. Learn these habits early and it will become second nature as the tank matures.

    Oh ya, read, read, read and read some more. But remember you can not paint your tank with the same brush as the next guys tanks. You need to experiment and see what works and doesn't work in your tank.

    Again welcome.
     
    DutchMuch and Robin W like this.
  8. Robin W

    Robin W New Member

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    Hi Slipfinger and Rajkm

    Thank you for the advice! I have trouble getting PH pen here and think i will go get either the jbl PH test or the API PH test. both are readily available at my LFS. Down the road, I think i need to trouble both of you with regards to dosing ferts again but till then.

    I have since uprooted, wash as best I can and replanted everything, scraped of all algae that I can and generally keeping the tank clean. Water changed 30%.

    Also added 10 amano shrimps and 4 oto. 4 small angels made their way to my tank (please dont ask me how, i know it is not a good idea at this stage :p).

    Have also reduced to 1 beamworks and the other one on only 15 LEDs instead of 45.

    Tomorrow, I will wash the filter and the pipes and the DIY co2 reactor in tank and remove as much algae on them as i can (too tired today). Then will do a water change again. Will post some pics of the tank then. I think I will start a new thread documenting my journey to tank recovery in the algae section since this forum is for introductions. Will do that tomorrow too!

    Currently, I have 2 questions though

    I think this is the soil I am using
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/ADVANCED-JAPANESE-SOIL-amp-SUBSTRATE-AQUARIUM-FISH-SHRIMP-PLANT-TANK-/172260367722

    Can i not dose any liquid fert until I get the light and CO2 right and rid myself of the algae? Will not dosing any liquid fert limit the nutrients and cause algae to get worse?
     
  9. rajkm

    rajkm Lifetime Members
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    I would say that since it's been 3 months you should be fine dosing.
    Work on your CO2 and continue dosing to Seachem recommended doses for now.
     
  10. Robin W

    Robin W New Member

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    Ok, Thanks Rajkm. Can i also clarify something?

    With regards to Co2 that was discussed... the more light I turn on, the higher the CO2 uptake right? This means that whatever CO2 injection works when I turn on 1 beamswork LED fixture will not work well when I turn on the other LED fixture too right?

    Also, the reason why slip finger is asking me to test PH at those intervals is to determine if CO2 is stable and enough for the whole photosynthesis period right? I hope I understand all these correctly. So tomorrow morning I am going to get a PH test kit and make sure my co2 is right for the amount of light first, Also, I will go add plants heavily and hope to out compete the algae.

    Regards
    Robin
     
  11. slipfinger

    slipfinger Junior Poster

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    By testing your Ph you have an idea if you are supply a 'good' amount of Co2. I've always been told to aim for your Ph to drop one full point before lights come on and remain there or lower during the duration of your photo period. By doing this you are insuring that you are not limiting the amount of Co2 available to the plants.

    Now in saying that and not to complicate things anymore there are many factors that can affect Co2. But to make it easier and not to have to worry about these factors at this point I would just supply the tank with as much Co2 as you can get dissolved. Aim for that 1 point drop before lights come on. By doing this you can take Co2 off the table as being an issue and focus on other things like light and ferts.

    One of the problems we have is we change to many things at once. By doing this we can never really sort out what is cause issues in the tank.

    Supply ample Co2, lower light intensity, couple 60-70% water changes a week, make sure you have good flow and keep the tank squeaky clean. This alone will go a long way to success, all that will be left to worry about is your nutrient requirements.

    Sounds so easy doesn't it...........
     
  12. rajkm

    rajkm Lifetime Members
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    That is correct, higher the light, higher the plant, and taller plants (closer to light) all lead to increased CO2 demand.
    PH liquid tests give you a close approximation and harder to read because you need to correctly pick the color match, but if the best you can do then it's fine.

    The trick is to slowly increase your CO2, 1/4 or less at a time and monitor your fish and shrimps closely. Do it on a day when you are home and can monitor every 15-30 min. If fish show stress, back out the i last increase, run a airstone to ease the fish, once the fish are fine, turn off the airstone and Let this setting run thru the day still monitoring. If fish show stress, back out a little more. If everything looks ok for the day, run this for a week and then try the increase again while monitoring. If the result is same, you reached the max your fish can take.

    Another thing to consider is surface agitation. Increased surface agitation means better gas exchange and allows you to add more O2, which also allows you to add more CO2.
    I run a skimmer, which keeps the surface clean, and have light agitation which keeps gas exchange healthy and allows me to add more CO2.
     
  13. Robin W

    Robin W New Member

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    Ok.... thanks for the suggestion for co2...
    I went to the LFS and got even more plants and started planted heavily as suggeted. Is this considered heavily? Is it enough for now?
    20170717_203650.jpg

    I tried my best to keep the tank squeaky clean but there is no way to remove the algae from the amazon sword and the "leaves on the wood". ALso, i reduced the light to 1 beamswork and left the other on 5 LEDs only. I turned up my co2 really high and within 3 hours, the fishes started hugging the surface. Then i ran the air stone. :(

    I lost 1 angel and 2 oto in the process :( . but got a good idea of how much co2 i can pump in without using a test kit. ( still cant find a reliable one)
    One question. Am i on the right track? Also, I have not been dosing. Will I run into more algae problems. If i just focus on getting my light and co2 right at the moment?
     
  14. rajkm

    rajkm Lifetime Members
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    You are on the right track.
    Soils generally have enough nutrients for first few weeks or months. So dosing can wait.
    Lights, I think can still go lower but leave it for a few days and see how it goes.
    Fish will react to quick changes.. like I said bump the CO2 slowly.
     
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