Matt F.;40258 said:
Tom,
In other words, I am pushing too much CO2 for a 20 gallon?
Man, I need to make some 4 dkh solution.
Should I keep my CO2 up while I have the green hair algae problems, lower it to 2bps, redirect my water circulation, dose more excel?
Assuming you don't have any Excel sensitive plants/fish, it's a good idea to add more. Excel effective adds CO2 while at the same time has some algecidal properties.
No two people have the same bubble size so it might be a red herring to compare bubble rates.
HC has proven to be a high CO2 demanding plant and due to it's size is typically placed in an area of the tank which has some of the poorest CO2 distribution. So the idea is to ensure that you are forcing flow down to the front substrate level (or down to wherever the HC is situated).
The 2026 has a pump rating of 250GPH which ought to be enough if the flow distribution is arranged properly. Have you mounted the spray bars along the very top edge of the tank, near the water surface and along the back wall? This seems to be the best arrangement as long as the exit flow is horizontal. If you orient the holes too much downward this is sometimes counter-productive. You may need to move the diffuser to various locations to see how the bubbles move and where they tend to congregate.
65 watts T5 is a LOT of light on a 20 gallon tank and this is not doing you any favours at all. Such high energy levels create a very high nutrient and CO2 demand so the
delivery of your CO2 requires precision. One need look no further for "craziness" than in the over-the-top light energy levels. I'd suggest you lower your light to give yourself more breathing room.
If your dropchecker is not using standard 4dkH distilled water then you might as well not have a dropchecker at all, because your readings will always be suspect.
I believe you also mentioned yellowing , in which case one should immediately suspect a Nitrogen shortfall, especially if BGA has appeared.
Cheers,