Are your N and P values taken post WC and before dosing macros. If so, that makes your pre WC N and P three times as high or around 75 and 6 ppm, which is way above commonly recommended levels. Have you done pre WC testing to verify those high levels. So the commonly believed high levels of P and N will trigger algal bloom is not substantiated.
Also, do you take your pH value before the photo period and set the pH controller to 6.0. So you are attempting to lower the pH by 1.3 points to 6 and can you achieve it? If so, your alkaline loving Rainbows have no ill effect in acid water.
What is your last column values stand for?
Tiger15 yes those values are post water change. And yes they are high. I have 32 total fish, who are well fed. A well fed well stocked tank produces lots of N & P. And yes I have taken readings pre water change, and I do calibrate my test kits from time to time.
Keep in mind most planted tanks you see here have a very light if any stocking. My tank is a little unusual in that respect. As to algae blooms, in my tank I don't see any correlation with N & P levels (exception is when dosing too little). Where I do see correlation is with lighting intensity/duration, CO2 levels, oxygen levels, flow, general maintenance, etc.
I've always thought there are so many detailed discussions regarding ferts, but not nearly as many on lighting (PAR/duration) and CO2. In my tank, I can effect changes much more quickly by altering CO2 and light than I can with altering ferts. I guess my point is that if I don't have the light and CO2 right, messing with ferts isn't going to solve too many things. Get those right and then I can fine tune.
Now as to CO2, as noted my pH in general is pretty steady from the RO tanks at right around 7.3. The set point value I list in the chart is the low side set point. The way a pH controller works is that first you set a range. My range is 0.2. So when low side is set to 5.90 my range is 5.90 to 6.10. When the pH drifts above 6.10, the CO2 is turned on. When it falls below 6.0, the the CO2 is turned off. Maybe more than you wanted to know but the effect is a drop on the low side of 1.3 pH, which is easily attainable. I drop the pH to that level in less than an hour.
As to Rainbows and pH, I have been keeping them for decades at different homes. Everything from liquid rock to completely soft water. I can only tell you my personal experience, and I have seen no difference in health, longevity, colors, activity, etc. based on pH levels. I think that correlation is a little over blown at times, but who knows, maybe others have had a different experience than me.
And I was wondering if someone was going to comment on the last column. It's tracking the lighting. I have three banks of two bulbs. So the column heading reads 2 4 6, and correlates to how many hours there are 2 bulbs, 4 bulbs, or 6 bulbs running. I used to keep this on a separate sheet, but just starting tracking it on this sheet a couple months ago. I didn't bother transferring all of the older data over, but could. So again, probably more than you wanted to know, but on Oct. 14th I was running 4 bulbs for 4 hours, and 6 bulbs for 4 hours. For the past three weeks, I have been testing the effects of less light. So right now it's one hour with 2 bulbs, 6 hours with 4 bulbs, and only a one hour blast with all 6 bulbs.
So far the effect has been positive. In many cases slower but healthier looking growth. I know from experience that too little light can cause as many issues as too much, so observing closely. I'm most curious about the effect it will have on the display of colors. For me, in general, less light = less color.....so trying to find the sweet spot now.