Green hair algae help

acrman21

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Aug 23, 2015
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Hi, I've been battling this algae for a few months an i can't get rid of it. I have a 90g tank, running co2 an getting a little more then a full point drop. For lights I have a sat + running 7 hours an I dry dose EI. what am I doing wrong ? An how can I stop it ?
 

Jessy2363

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Aug 27, 2015
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I also need help. I have hair algae starting to form. Just started running co2 at around 15mg/l with medium lighting. Am dosing ferts. No idea why I'm getting hair algae. Whitish hair algae. think it's staghorn.
 
S

skardos

Guest
I can't find the thread, but this is what Tom suggested and it worked great for my hair algae issue.


Do a 3 day blackout + daily water changes, + full Excel treatment.


I did mine for 4 days, I had a very bad infestation, I also sprayed the algae each day with hydrogen peroxide let it sit for about half an hour then did a 40% - 50% water change each day. During the blackout I stopped fertilizing and no co2. Have not seen any hair algae for 5 months.
 

Pikez

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arcman and jessy - pictures and more detail would help.


BTW, lack of blackouts and Excel is not the reason why there is hair algae. Need to address imbalance in ferts/light/CO2 first. Hair algae is not a sign of mild imbalance - I usually see it when there is serious imbalance.


Blackouts and excel are cures, not preventives. You can certainly start with the cures. But you will eventually have to figure out what you're doing wrong.
 
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acrman21

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Aug 23, 2015
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Pikez said:
arcman and jessy - pictures and more detail would help.

BTW, lack of blackouts and Excel is not the reason why there is hair algae. Need to address imbalance in ferts/light/CO2 first. Hair algae is not a sign of mild imbalance - I usually see it when there is serious imbalance.


Blackouts and excel are cures, not preventives. You can certainly start with the cures. But you will eventually have to figure out what you're doing wrong.

I've been trying to add pics but it keeps saying they're too big. I don't know why it's the same pics I use on all other sites.


Ok so what should I be dosing for a 90g. I dry dose. I've seen many sites that suggest different amounts.
 

Tom Barr

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Trimming and plants growing and blocking the flow of the filters/CO2 rich water seems to play a role in a couple of tanks that use to get it.


Otherwise, good CO2 is the key to most of it.
 
S

skardos

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I will defer to Pikez on this. I'm new to the hobby although I've been wanting to do a planted tank since seeing one of Amano's books in the library about 14 years ago, just never had the time. Started my first one in March 2015. Luckily I stumbled onto this site during my research and it has been a wellspring of good information. My tank got over run with hair algae after being away for 5 days and my light had somehow gotten set to maximum, the picture is after doing about an hours worth of trimming the algae. I did switch from PPM to EI on my ferts after the blackout so I'm sure an imbalance in ferts may have been contributing to my problem.
 

Pikez

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skardos - looks like new tank syndrome…but it's 6 months old. So my guess is that it's CO2 imbalance. If you're doing EI + weekly water change, then you don't need to worry about ferts. Once your light is dialed in - lower is better - you don't need to worry about that either. Check/clean filter. Make sure there is lots of flow. These are easy - just don't slack off.


But what you DO need to worry about and spend a lot of time on is dialing in your CO2. And get your CO2 high and stable. There are lots of threads here on how to stabilize it. This is easier to do with lower light. It's a classic newbie mistake to crank up the light and wonder why CO2 is not stable. You might need to super-size your reactor. Check your pH probe. Calibrate your pH probe. Tweak the bubble rate a tiny bit at a time to get a pH drop of 1.0. Example: if your water is at 7.2 without ANY CO2, then after your start CO2, it should be at 6.2. This is a decent target. If you don't have a pH meter and are eye-balling it, then you need to watch very closely - both the plants and fish - to see if you're adding too much CO2. Go slow and steady.


It's hard not to focus on the nasty hair algae. But what you really need to be focusing on is lowering light + high/stable CO2 + water changes + constant physical cleaning + regular ferts + good flow. Basically taking care of plants needs. Do this over and over. That's all there is to it. I'm basically saying what Tom said above, but with more words.
 
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skardos

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Thanks for the info I will start adjusting the CO2 right now I'm getting a .5 - .75 PH drop. I don't have a any hair algae anymore, right now I'm trying to get rid of some green spot algae. I have increased the phosphate (KH2PO4) in my EI mixture, I would normally use 4.7 grams and have increased it to 15 grams. Would light and CO2 play a role in the GSA I'm thinking adjust the light down give it a few more weeks with the increased phosphate and see if stops appearing on new growth.
 

Pikez

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A half point pH drop is fine for low light tanks. You probably need more if you have higher light. If your hair algae is gone and you're left with just green spot, then my guess is that things are moving in the right direction. It takes very low P to bring on green spot in my experience. Most of the time, GSA is some kind of imbalance between too much light and too little CO2. I still get occasional bouts of this stuff on the glass and older slow growing plants…but it gets better if I get my act together.