Green Dust Algae: please help!

Biollante

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Get The "P" Over 1.6-ppm

Hi Fab.,

Of course 7 or 8-ml of Fleet Enemas or one of its knock offs will get you around 5-ppm PO[SUB]4[/SUB]…
:)

Just saying…
:gw

Four weeks reduced lighting, it is nice if you can have someone check and feed the fish a couple of times a week.
:)

Biollante
 

detlef

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Hi Fab,

as soon as possible and may be again the day before you leave you should "dry-out" the tank. A method that I invented and often tried since I've observed that after a heavy water change quite a few types of algae (particularly GDA) got knocked back severly.

Simply syphon the tank as low as your fauna allows and while the water level is very low use your hair dryer for say 3 mins for drying the plants and equipment (don't use the highest temp stages though). Then fill up again.

Spraying KH2HPO4 (5g/100ml) upon affected areas while the water is down should help rid the algae even more. One or two pumps in every direction should do the trick. Used in excess might not only kill algae but the plants as well.

Good luck,
Detlef
 
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fablau

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Thank you Henry, I am still confused about the dosage: did you mean 5ml or 129ml a week of PO4 for curing GDA... or more?

My fish load has been pretty much the same for years. I have no idea if my water treatment company added or changed something in water quality.

About the soil, as I said, I add iron and PO regularly and I don't use really pure laterite only, I use the Eco Complete which includes many elements.

Thanks!

Fab.
 

fablau

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And thank you Tom, Boillante and Detlef for your advice. Unfortunately I won't be able to have someone coming in here dosing for me, so I think I will take the way of reducing light... but 4 hours/day with a tube off sounds soooo low to me! Should I also reduce Co2 injection? Currently is about 3-4 bps.

My fish will be fine because I have two automatic feeders that can make the work for me.

Detlef, your "dry-out" strategy sounds very interesting, I will definitively try it tomorrow when I clean my tank. One question: is the KH2HPO4 you mentioned "dipotassium hydrogen phosphate"? Where can I find it?

Thank you again.

Fab.
 

detlef

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Fab,

sorry I meant Potassium Dihydrogen Phosphate (KH2PO4). Disodium hydrogenorthophosphate (Na2HPO4) should work equally well. I can get both from any drugstore around easily.

I forgot to add that if you do the dry-out method keep the hair dryer about 20-30cm away from the plants.

Clithon snails (about 5/20g) will also help a great deal in keeping GDA in check. Even better for equipment and glass surfaces than oto cats.



Regards, Detlef
 
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Gerryd

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but 4 hours/day with a tube off sounds soooo low to me! Should I also reduce Co2 injection?

Hi fab,

Basically, I suggest for you to convert your tank to a low light/low c02 while you are away. You can have 6-8 hr duration, up to you of course. I just suggest less light (a lot) while you are away. C02 can be turned OFF so it is not a factor or concern. Reducing it will also help prevent issues. Remember that you will not be there to see impact, so better safe than sorry IME.

While you may lose some species that require higher c02/light, I think OVERALL you may have less issues when you return. Plants can be regrown and replaced once you return..

What IS your light setup? Can you borrow a PAR meter?
 

Tom Barr

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I do a semi dry out method with the large water changes but do not add the hair dryer.

I just leave the stuff exposed except for the plant leaves, some can handle a few minutes of drying, others cannot.
 

fablau

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Thank you so much guys for your valuable info.

Gerry: I will follow your advice to turn Co2 off, remove a tube and have light just 7 hours a day. My current setup is: 2x40W plus 2x30W tubes. I could remove one of the 40W tubes, in order to have just a total of 100W instead than 140W. I have no idea where to borrow a PAR meter though... would be nice to measure my light.

I will do the cleaning today and follow your advice. Then I will post my tank situation once I get back from vacation.

Thank you again very much again!

Best,
Fab.
 

Gerryd

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Hi Fab,

Just me, but I would use 2x30w ONLY while you are away, especially if NOT using c02. Your tank is not that large....

6-7 hours daily should be plenty. Clean your filters before you go (but keep the bio-media) so you know they are fresh and good to go. Check any connections you have, etc, etc. Do a final large water change if you can, I always do this....I do tend to stuff my fish for a few days prior in the hopes they build up a bit of fat reserves, but who knows. That said, I don't usually lose fish while I am away.
 

fablau

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I was thinking to keep 100W but with very little Co2, something like 1 bps instead that usual 3-4 bps? What do you think about that? I am afraid to turn Co2 completely off...

Thank you for your advice!

Fab.
 

Matt F.

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I'm interested in some definitive info on GDA. I'me battling this right now, too. I dose EI (even higher levels of phosphate), crank the co2, and have goof flow (2217 on a 17 gallon), and I still have problems. As soon as I clean off the glass, do a couple major water changes, I see the GDA rear its ugly head.

The only things thus far that have stopped its growth....

a three day black/brown out after a thorough cleaning. GDA is dependant on light! LoL

I even overdose glutaraldehyde, and it does not have an effect...

I see GDA under the substrate line, too. I wonder if that is the reason why we can't get rid of it. Could there be a correlation between higher organic matter (detritus build up) and the growth of GDA?

I just remembered a fish disappeared a while back. Haven't found the body.

I also have really dense plant growth...a reduction of flow near the substrate?

Too rich on the CO2 injection?

Anyway, I've tried most of the things that are suggested in this thread, but I, too, am still struggling with this one.

At least my plants aren't affected by the GDA.

After thoughts: I did clean my filter media right before the GDA outbreak happened. Could there be a correlation between a +bacteria die off and GDA? I also trimmed at the same time.
 
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Tom Barr

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Matt,

I can stop by and see your GDA in person sometime and then fix it.
Mike Rubin, one of the local SFBAAPS embers was the 1st documented person in the USA to ever have this alga that I am aware of.

Blackouts do not work.
Glut will not either.
Cannot say regarding OM build up.
Never seen too rich CO2 unless the livestock/fish are affected 1st.

I would say yes to the correlation, I noted this one on 1 tank back in 2001.
I left things alone and the tank fixed itself in about 3 weeks, plants grow back well and filled in.
I'm very reluctant to suggest a BO for anything other than BGA.

You might try running lights and CO2 for 3-5 hours and see if the photoperiod can mess up the cycle.
This should prevent the plants from looking sorry and beat the algae back some.

Most algae germinate from spores and keep growing throughout summer, not much during winter.
After it's gone, then raise the time back to 8-10 hours etc.

I'd attack it without mercy while running the short light time.
Spray the glass when doing the large WC with H2O2.
Scrap under the gravel edge there.
Run a large UV after wiping/micron mech filter etc.

Tweak the CO2 a tad up if possible.
Stop uprooting plants so often/so many at one time.

It's a bit like GW, once the alga commits, it will hang on for dear life, but perhaps the photo period might say forget it and go back to a resting spore stage.
I have to have plenty of GDA spores in all my tanks, but none have ever had a bloom in what I have now.

A 20 gal overloaded with fish and light etc, did for about 12 weeks.
A 55 gallon for 3 weeks.

Not much else.

I inoculated the 20 Gal, that was the only tank it ever took to even though I've inoculated a dozen or more times without success.
 

ajfjavi

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Hi there,

I'm a recent new member of this forum. Lots of good information.

I'm also experiencing GDA issues.Started a few months ago. I have a heavily planted 120G with pressurized CO2, inline UV, 4 54W T5HO bulbs (on 8 hours a day). I use EI. It's not a new setup. I've had this tank running about 5 years, and this is the first time with GDA problems. Really frustrating. I've tried everything I've seen on this and other threads.

Plants are growing fine. I do 50% water weekly. GDA comes back by mid week after I clean the tank.

I didn't know GDA is new.

Alfonso

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
 
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Tom Barr

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You might attack it by doing more water changes.

I know folks have done that in the past and then tweaked CO2, but it's the only thing I can see that might be different, light/ferts does not seem to be an issue. GDA does not care......
Light period might work, I've not read of anyone doing that.

A few things correlate, but we have not found any one thing that works 100%.
 

ajfjavi

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Thanks for the suggestions Tom.

One other thing I think I'll try is to point my front reflector away from the front glass. The GDA seems to be worse on the front glass than the sides. Glass in the back seems to be GSA free.

Alfonso
 

Tom Barr

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Pitbull peclos are pretty good rock and glass cleaning species, same with gold nuggets too.
 

ajfjavi

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I have 4 bristlenose "green dragon" plecos. Wonder how they compare to pitbulls/Gold nuggets on algae consumption....
 

Matt F.

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Hi, Tom--

Thanks for breaking it down.
Sure, one of these days you can take a look at it --when we're both not too busy.
The 3 day brown-out (lights off with glut daily) put a major hurt on it. Prior to the brownout, I cleaned the tank (scraped the glass, wipes down the seams, did several 50% water changes etc.). It took some time for the algae to rear its head again, but sure enough, it did as soon as the photoperiod was increased to beyond 6 hours.
I also noticed the other day that I was lean on my monopotassium phosphate dosing...wonder if this contributed to the algae proliferation. Plants look nice and healthy regardless.

What works so far:
a 3 day brown out works after a cleaning to prevent the GDA from re-attaching to the aquarium walls, but it seems to come back. This GDA doesn't seem to attach plants, just the aquarium walls and rocks. Another thing I notice is that when the substrate becomes clogged with detritus, the GDA doesn't seem that far off. Had this problem in my Mini-M, too, before I tore it down. This time, it's not as bad. The tank looks totally clean now. We'll just have to wait and see if it comes back again.


I have increased the phosphates in my tank.
I have rescaped the right side of my tank and done several large water changes, So far, so good.

Will keep you guys posted.

Tom Barr;84507 said:
Matt,

I can stop by and see your GDA in person sometime and then fix it.
Mike Rubin, one of the local SFBAAPS embers was the 1st documented person in the USA to ever have this alga that I am aware of.

Blackouts do not work.
Glut will not either.
Cannot say regarding OM build up.
Never seen too rich CO2 unless the livestock/fish are affected 1st.

I would say yes to the correlation, I noted this one on 1 tank back in 2001.
I left things alone and the tank fixed itself in about 3 weeks, plants grow back well and filled in.
I'm very reluctant to suggest a BO for anything other than BGA.

You might try running lights and CO2 for 3-5 hours and see if the photoperiod can mess up the cycle.
This should prevent the plants from looking sorry and beat the algae back some.

Most algae germinate from spores and keep growing throughout summer, not much during winter.
After it's gone, then raise the time back to 8-10 hours etc.

I'd attack it without mercy while running the short light time.
Spray the glass when doing the large WC with H2O2.
Scrap under the gravel edge there.
Run a large UV after wiping/micron mech filter etc.

Tweak the CO2 a tad up if possible.
Stop uprooting plants so often/so many at one time.

It's a bit like GW, once the alga commits, it will hang on for dear life, but perhaps the photo period might say forget it and go back to a resting spore stage.
I have to have plenty of GDA spores in all my tanks, but none have ever had a bloom in what I have now.

A 20 gal overloaded with fish and light etc, did for about 12 weeks.
A 55 gallon for 3 weeks.

Not much else.

I inoculated the 20 Gal, that was the only tank it ever took to even though I've inoculated a dozen or more times without success.
 
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Matt F.

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Sounds about the same as my experience...GDA comes back about 3 days after a water change (mid-week) and grows rapidly.

ajfjavi;84515 said:
Hi there,

I'm a recent new member of this forum. Lots of good information.

I'm also experiencing GDA issues.Started a few months ago. I have a heavily planted 120G with pressurized CO2, inline UV, 4 54W T5HO bulbs (on 8 hours a day). I use EI. It's not a new setup. I've had this tank running about 5 years, and this is the first time with GDA problems. Really frustrating. I've tried everything I've seen on this and other threads.

Plants are growing fine. I do 50% water weekly. GDA comes back by mid week after I clean the tank.

I didn't know GDA is new.

Alfonso

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2