Tom Barr;114208 said:1st tank I saw with GDA was Micheal Rubin's 50 Gallon, 2w/gal of PC lights, wet/dry filter, well care for.
Plain old sand.
Several other tanks, plain inert sands.
I do not think soil has any effect, the 180 Gallon has no algae issues and no matter what I add in there, no algae makes it.
Loads of CMS+B, DTPA, Fe gluconate etc.
Light is the only factor I've seen that can slow the growth rates of GDA.
I added the pack of bushy nose plecos babies, they mauled the GDA ina client's tank, cleaned the glass and the stone and the wood etc.
I tried this in my 70 Gal at full blast with the ATI light and only a few plants, like a few Buce's and srig of EH, virtually unplanted, I feed the fish/shrimp, but they clean it well.
Even without hardly any plant biomass.
Shrimp alone could/did not do this.
For your tank, 4-6 might do the trick.
thegasman;114212 said:The old well balanced clean up crew kicks butt! It is a staple of reef tanks. I've found that it applies to planted aquariums as well. I just added some panda garras and albino bushy nose plecos. My glass has never looked better.
Matt F.;114215 said:Well, the fact that GDA shows up in tanks with sand substrate kills that though...
Limiting photoperiod works. whenever the GDA rebounds in the tank I shorten the photoperiod to 4 hours per day, and the GDA goes bye bye. 3day blackouts work to slow/reverse the growth. Also if you do twice weekly water changes with an emphasis on cleaning the walls of the aquarium, in a matter of weeks, you can eliminate most GDA growth. I also haven't tried your wait 3 weeks method, which I might try next time. I can see how this might disrupt the life cycle by eliminating/limiting many of the zoospores.
But these behavioral changes deal with the symptoms. I wonder if there is a fix to the problem. I just might try those BN plecos! There might be a link between bacterial film buildup and the attachment of GDA zoozpores?
Matt F.;114953 said:Tom,
2x >50% water changes per week
EI (10-20 gallon)
Glut at double dose
8 hour photoperiod
dutchy;116165 said:I think these measures to control GDA are logic, but not a cure. Of course changing more water will remove more of the GDA and it will be less, as it will be the same with a short photoperiod. But I think (with all respect) that this is like trying to drive around nails to avoid a flat tire. It helps to alleviate the consequence, not the cause.
Meanwhile another aquarist suffering from GDA reported back that switching from CSM+B to profito (lower Fe, different Fe chelator) has helped to reduce GDA a lot. This is the same I found and has been confirmed now.
There's also a scientific paper that confirmes this, showing a peak in GDA development around 0,5 ppm Fe, and then leveling off again at higher ppm's.
Maybe a try to use high levels at 2 ppm or more is an option.
dutchy;116182 said:This is part of the paper I was referring to earlier:
http://www.sid.ir/en/ViewPaper.asp?...OSSEINI SEYED MOSTAFA,SEYFABADI S.J.,FALAHI M.