This site is supported by the advertisements on it, please disable your AdBlocker so we can continue to provide you with the quality content you expect.
  1. Dismiss Notice
  2. We are after as many aquarium plant images that we can get, doing so will assist us in completing the aquarium plant database.

    https://barrreport.com/threads/aquatic-plant-images-wanted.14374/
    Dismiss Notice

Going from High Light to Low Light

Discussion in 'Advanced Strategies and Fertilization' started by dkarmona, May 2, 2005.

  1. dkarmona

    dkarmona Junior Poster

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2005
    Messages:
    22
    Likes Received:
    0
    Local Time:
    5:35 PM
    I changed my co2 tank and my regulator stopped working, maybe I broke it, I don't know yet. But the thing is I had 3.9W/gallon and I inmediatly reduced the light to 1 W/gallon, I though i was going to be able to solve the problem fast. Now I have 1.9W/gallon and don't have CO2, how should I change my dosing amounts?

    My thank is 250 lt, I have Java Fern, Hygrophila Corymbosa, Sagittaria Subulata, Alternathera Reineckii (This one doesn't grow) and some crypts.
    I change 50% water weekly.
     
  2. Tom Barr

    Tom Barr Founder
    Staff Member Administrator

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2005
    Messages:
    18,676
    Likes Received:
    644
    Local Time:
    5:35 PM
    Re: Going from High Light to Low Light

    Don't change the water.
    Add only small amounts, about 5-10x less of nutrients(just once a week).

    Allow the tank to be over grown.

    You can trim it back when you get CO2 again(or are you not planning on getting CO2 later?)

    Regards,
    Tom Barr
     
  3. dkarmona

    dkarmona Junior Poster

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2005
    Messages:
    22
    Likes Received:
    0
    Local Time:
    5:35 PM
    Re: Going from High Light to Low Light

    Jejeje, i got used to changing the water everyweek and now i don't have to, this NON CO2 seems nice since I am so lazy. :)

    I read the Thread non co2 methods and it is definitely very interesting.

    But I have the following questions:
    1. How does the fish load influence this non co2, I will guess it is for a low load, and currently I have two blue gouramis, 3 dwarf cichilds (not so dwarf if you ask me), two pelvicachromis pulcher, 2 rosy barbs, 1 cherry barb, 4 platys, 62 gallons, that seems like a high load, i don't know.
    2. Since You don't change water does this method rely more on test kits?, i don't like, and won't use them until I make some reference solutions. Of course I have cheap test kits.

    I guess there could be a middle road, if i get back the co2 i could still use low light, co2 and weekly water changes. I can have the following light levels
    0.9 W/gal
    1.9 W/gal
    2.9 W/gal
    3.9 W/gal

    Moving in the 0.9-1.9w/gal makes co2 useless and just a big waste? Currently my tank after a week looks nicer than when I had 3.9w and co2, algae seem to grow faster at that light levels, specially some brown stuff on the leaves and green stuff on the glass. I was winning my battle over brush algae, that black stuff was finally not growing anymore, but it seemed I changed one alge for the other.

    I don't have working regulator and don't know when I am going to have co2 again and since it seems easier to take care of the tank at this light levels I guess I don't want to raise them to much when I have the co2 back.

    Thanks Tom
     
Loading...

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice