I've been reading up on bryopsis and how to treat it. The only information I've found are the usual "starve it" method and increasing Mg way up to 1600 and other crazy numbers. Anyone have any experience in getting rid of this? Its not too bad yet, but I'd like to get a handle on things before it gets a chance to take other.
Getting rid of bryopsis algae
- Thread starter feh
- Start date
Salt Or Salt-Free
Hi,
As far as I know, bryopsis is a marine alga. It is a nasty beast and the dynamics of reef tanks are different from our freshwater-planted tanks.
If this is a freshwater-planted tank, it is probably a red alga, which is no day in the park but can be beaten without going to extremes.
Biollante
Hi,
As far as I know, bryopsis is a marine alga. It is a nasty beast and the dynamics of reef tanks are different from our freshwater-planted tanks.
If this is a freshwater-planted tank, it is probably a red alga, which is no day in the park but can be beaten without going to extremes.
Biollante
Its a marine tank. I've read that increasing Mg to around 1600+ has shown good results on some of the reef forums. This early in the build I don't have any live stock to worry about just don't want to kill off any nitrifying bacteria that has been growing over the past month. Any suggestions on the best method to rid the tank of it. Its growing on the dead rock I've been seeding. Its the only rock in the display tank. I'm not sure what brought it about because the cured rock I have in the sump doesn't have any growing on it.
I'm afraid of trying to manually remove it because that could cause it to spread. I don't run my lights yet as there is no real need for them. Nitrates are undetectable with my test kit, and PO4 is still low at 0.08 which is up from the last time I checked it from 0.05 which I assumed it went down from 0.07 from the first test because of the algae growth. At first I thought it was GHA but with a closer look I can see the feather looking part growing from the base. I've noticed its growing on the dry rock, some on the sand, and a little on the glass.
I had been researching it and saw some hydroids that I thought might fit the description then finally ran across a nice pic of Bryopsis for a positive ID. I'd really like to attack this stuff aggressively because what I've read, as you said Tom, its not an easy one to get rid of.
What do you suggest for killing it?
I'm afraid of trying to manually remove it because that could cause it to spread. I don't run my lights yet as there is no real need for them. Nitrates are undetectable with my test kit, and PO4 is still low at 0.08 which is up from the last time I checked it from 0.05 which I assumed it went down from 0.07 from the first test because of the algae growth. At first I thought it was GHA but with a closer look I can see the feather looking part growing from the base. I've noticed its growing on the dry rock, some on the sand, and a little on the glass.
I had been researching it and saw some hydroids that I thought might fit the description then finally ran across a nice pic of Bryopsis for a positive ID. I'd really like to attack this stuff aggressively because what I've read, as you said Tom, its not an easy one to get rid of.
What do you suggest for killing it?
Terminate with extreme prejudice...
Hi,
I dealt ineptly with bryopsis algae 10 or 15 years ago, it was a disaster so my advice is to go to wetwebmedia or reefkeepers, one of those I am sure someone there can help.
I believe it is associated with low Magnesium, I really do not know what levels are effective.
I just checked one of my references and it reproduces asexually, which means do not go breaking it up into little bits.
If it is on a dead rock I would consider bagging the rock under water, containing the algae and remove, clean and sterilize the rock. Then get your water parameters where they need to be.
I am with Tom Barr; kill it now do not fool around with this stuff.
Biollante
Hi,
I dealt ineptly with bryopsis algae 10 or 15 years ago, it was a disaster so my advice is to go to wetwebmedia or reefkeepers, one of those I am sure someone there can help.
I believe it is associated with low Magnesium, I really do not know what levels are effective.
I just checked one of my references and it reproduces asexually, which means do not go breaking it up into little bits.
If it is on a dead rock I would consider bagging the rock under water, containing the algae and remove, clean and sterilize the rock. Then get your water parameters where they need to be.
I am with Tom Barr; kill it now do not fool around with this stuff.
Biollante
I just checked my Mg with a Salifert kit. According to that its 1500.
Other known parms are:
salinity 1.025 - happy with this
pH 8.0 - could be better
Ca 585 - this seems a little high
P04 0.08 - not so good but not too bad
Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate undetectable
Still no Alk kit. It was supposed to be here yesterday but post office delayed delivery. I checked mail today and nada and no update. It was out for delivery yesterday according to tracking. Called post office today - got the run around. Found a notice on my door and they've stopped delivery because of some "vandalism" at all the mail boxes for my complex. Apparently someone broke into all the mail boxes over the weekend. So no Alk numbers.
Yeah, I saw that about it being asexual and so on. Its why I haven't touched it once I confirmed what it is. I've been reading and it appears Kent Tech M seems to get rid of it. People are saying its the Mg levels killing it, but I'm questioning that because if that were the case I should be able to use Magnesium Chloride without all the other stuff and see the results. Then I see other ideas tossed out there about it being some other trace that nobody can ID and that its only been known to work for sure with the Tech M. So there seems to be some inconsistency and confusion.
Tom mentioned spot treating. I'm wondering what he has in mind for spot killing it.
Anyway I've seen mention of this on various forums. I'm wondering what truth is behind it since some say it works others it doesn't. I mean if they are raising their Mg and saying thats what actually killing it then I shouldn't have it because my Mg is already at 1500 and it seems to be the target people are saying should see results.
"easy solution to bryopsis"
Other known parms are:
salinity 1.025 - happy with this
pH 8.0 - could be better
Ca 585 - this seems a little high
P04 0.08 - not so good but not too bad
Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate undetectable
Still no Alk kit. It was supposed to be here yesterday but post office delayed delivery. I checked mail today and nada and no update. It was out for delivery yesterday according to tracking. Called post office today - got the run around. Found a notice on my door and they've stopped delivery because of some "vandalism" at all the mail boxes for my complex. Apparently someone broke into all the mail boxes over the weekend. So no Alk numbers.
Yeah, I saw that about it being asexual and so on. Its why I haven't touched it once I confirmed what it is. I've been reading and it appears Kent Tech M seems to get rid of it. People are saying its the Mg levels killing it, but I'm questioning that because if that were the case I should be able to use Magnesium Chloride without all the other stuff and see the results. Then I see other ideas tossed out there about it being some other trace that nobody can ID and that its only been known to work for sure with the Tech M. So there seems to be some inconsistency and confusion.
Tom mentioned spot treating. I'm wondering what he has in mind for spot killing it.
Anyway I've seen mention of this on various forums. I'm wondering what truth is behind it since some say it works others it doesn't. I mean if they are raising their Mg and saying thats what actually killing it then I shouldn't have it because my Mg is already at 1500 and it seems to be the target people are saying should see results.
"easy solution to bryopsis"
I'd turn the flow off and spot treat, then bump to 1600 Mg, then watch and be very picky and look carefully for a long time, best to nail it NOW, rather than seeing it come up later........
Excel actually works fairly well in marine systems.
H2O2 also.
Do a large water change also(cost $ for salt, I know)
Run the skimmer full out after treatment etc.
Excel actually works fairly well in marine systems.
H2O2 also.
Do a large water change also(cost $ for salt, I know)
Run the skimmer full out after treatment etc.
Thanks for the info. I'm going to see what I can do to get it gone before I add anything to the tank. Salt isn't that expensive if you buy it online. Around here its about $26 for enough to mix 50 gallons. I can get 4 times that for around $55 online with free shipping. So I think I'm going to try and get 2 cases of it. I haven't seen info on Excel or H202 in marine systems. Spose I'll do some googling on it see what pops up. The only thing I'm not sure I can pick up local is the Kent Tech M.
Found a pic online of exactly what this stuff I have looks like. I'm not able to find a really good pic of GHA to compare with. Is this bryopsis or GHA? Considering my tank is around 1.5 months old... rock went in on 12/8, I'm wanting to be sure. Either way the PO4 still needs to come down some more.
feh;78168 said:
That's not good, add the alk and keep it up, think about Alk and the Ca++ like we do CO2 in planted tanks, take it that serious.
Bryopsis should have those classic one sided filaments, these look more branched on both sides and appear yellow/brown. Bryopsis are green algae.
Looks more like a GHA to me.
Bryopsis is unmistakable.
Thanks, the algae ID is a relief. Alk is at 129 right now but I think I'm going to try and shoot for closer to 140. Ca is still high according to my test kit. I checked it again yesterday and its saying 600 again so I'm questioning the kit. I'm using a Hanna checker and despite reviews went ahead and got one. It doesn't use much sample water to test - 0.1ml. I'm considering getting another kit to test with and see if I get a different number.
Tom Barr;78146 said:
How big of a large WC would you suggest. Just checked PO4 again 0.00. I'm guessing its prolly around 0.01 because yesterday it read around 0.02, but its hard to say what the real number is with the algae taking some of it. I did notice the rock I tested the H202 on seems to be working. Its turned mostly white.
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