geektom's sanity tank

geektom

Junior Poster
Dec 16, 2012
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Quick update:

Added Bacopa colorata between the myrio and Rotala rotundifolia to create a nice buffer. The colorata is the type of shape I was hoping for when I got the Rotala in the first place, so I was happy to find it. I also added a small bunch of dwarf sag to ease the transition from the repens to the anubias.

I am super happy with the Pogostemon stellata - apparently my light is strong enough as it has been steadily growing and coloring up.

The Ludwigia arcuata is finally growing a little. If it continues to lag so far behind everything else, I may just replace it with trimming from the stellata.

Trimmed/gave away a bunch of the repens- I will do a more aggressive trimming soon, and perhaps trim the AR at the same time.

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The colorata
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This guy likes it
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You can barely see the L. arcuata coming up over the rocks
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Where I added the dwarf sag- it looks raggedy now, but it will bounce back
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You probably noticed I have stocked the tank now, too. My patience paid off and after 10 days we are holding strong at 0 ppm Ammonia and Nitrites. Nitrates are barely detectable.

Right now there are:

4 julii corys
4 peppermint tetras
4 emerald eye rasboras
3 SAE
5 Amano shrimp
5 cherry red shrimp
3 good size nerite snails


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geektom

Junior Poster
Dec 16, 2012
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@geektom, where did you put the Dwarf sag? I didn't see it?
Im blind! lol.
To me that dwarf sag (if that's the plant your talking about) looks kind of similar to blyxa japonica? im sure im wrong most likely, but that's just what it looks like!! :)
TANKS LOOKING AWESOME BTW

Thanks- if you are thinking it is japonica, then that is what I am calling dwarf sag. It wasn't labeled, but having kept a lot of it over the years, I am pretty sure I am right.

I would have preferred japonica, tbh- it is a lot easier to control.

And thanks! It has been a lot of fun building a tank from scratch again and a real challenge to work within the limits of a smaller tank after so many years of big ones.

The colors aren't nearly as washed out and "yellow" in real life- limitation of my iPhone, I think.

I may bust out the digital camera and take some better pictures this week.


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geektom

Junior Poster
Dec 16, 2012
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Hi all! My Myrio green is acting kind of odd- hoping you might have some suggestions. A couple of the stems have yellowed and the "leaves" (I guess they are still leaves, right?) are thinner than usual and curling.

I am doing EI dosing, pH is 6.8 at peak lighting.

I did notice the stems are branching on their own? Maybe those tips just need to be trimmed?

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geektom

Junior Poster
Dec 16, 2012
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Ok, no luck on advice for the myrio- maybe someone can help tell me what kind of algae this is and if my cleaning crew (SAE, Amanos and Nerites) will be able to handle it?

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Also, trimmed my first stem of the P. stellata/ it is growing so well! Replanted the top to make more light for the Ludwigia arcuata, which is finally showing some growth, albeit *much* slower than everything else in the tank.

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Dale Hazey

Junior Poster
Feb 18, 2017
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Ya looks like green spot algae
GSA won't rub off easy. It's tough
Literature says nerites will conquer GSA, and that they can't right themselves if they land on their back, they will just lay there and die.
Nothing else really can handle it from what I have read. Increasing PO4 is supposed to help inhibit/prevent GSA in some circumstances.

My experience with about 8 different stem plants, is that some won't ever grow a side shoot until topped, while others grow side shoots regularly.

.02

Dale
 
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Dale Hazey

Junior Poster
Feb 18, 2017
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GSA usually shows up on slow growing plants like anubias, fast growers not so much. Maybe get some more shading over the anubias. Mine got plenty of GSA and I just leave it. There's some articles on the Krib about anubias and algae. I don't believe it's necessary to trim those leaves. Algae can die off. I think the leaves can still photosynthesize. Shade those bad boys or move them further away from the light. I'm a humble amateur, so my advice is just my .02

Tank is looking really good man. Don't go insane.

Dale
 
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burr740

Micros Spiller
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Feb 16, 2015
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The Myrios are branching because the main tips have stopped growing. It's the plant's attempt to start itself over. Also the older parts are covered in algae, notice the darker color.

So that plant is definitely not happy.

My guess would be EI level micros are too much, or your PH is too high for the EDTA Fe in csmb (if that's what you're using) But this is only a guess based on personal experience. Might be something else

GSA on the Anubias. Probably the same cause as whatever is affecting the Myrio.
 

Dale Hazey

Junior Poster
Feb 18, 2017
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@burr740

Edta CSM+B vs. PH vs. Kh vs. PO4

What exactly happens when FE v PO4?

I read an old post by plantbrain advising it would be ok to dose a little more csmb in high KH if that's what you had available. Some of it would just be wasted.

Burr you are a boss and don't go heavy on the traces. I think Barr has admitted he doses traces heavy.

There seems to be a difference of opinions when it comes to micros, among people here. Some dose a little, some dose more... Some talk toxicity, some don't.

Dale.
 
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burr740

Micros Spiller
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Feb 16, 2015
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@burr740

Edta CSM+B vs. PH vs. Kh vs. PO4

What exactly happens when FE v PO4?

I read an old post by plantbrain advising it would be ok to dose a little more csmb in high KH if that's what you had available. Some of it would just be wasted.

Burr you are a boss and don't go heavy on the traces. I think Barr has admitted he doses traces heavy.

There seems to be a difference of opinions when it comes to micros, among people here. Some dose a little, some dose more... Some talk toxicity, some don't.

Dale.

It's more complicated than just a lot being wasted. When the chelator unbinds from Fe, you get Fe in whatever raw state its in, doing whatever it does, plus all that free edta, which isnt biodegradable, so it just sticks around only removed by water changes, and is now free to bind with other stuff.

The ramifications of all this arent well understood at this point. It matters to some tanks, higher PHs, inert substrates. Doesnt matter to others, lower PH, high CEC, etc. Likely some other factors involved as well.

Theoretically nutrients shouldnt be "toxic" at these levels. I believe that to be true. But there are other games being played out behind the scenes which bring unknown factors into the equation.

As for myself using low traces. I can say that getting rid of EDTA was the best thing I ever did. Im now able to dose a lot more than before, like 10x more, and many chronic problems which plagued me for years have apparently been solved.

For several years in the past, I had to keep micros via csmb extremely low to have much success. Now Im able to dose more "normal" levels with better results.

Tifwiw :)
 

geektom

Junior Poster
Dec 16, 2012
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Thank you both- this is my first time using EI (my main reason for setting up the tank while I am planning a larger tank next year).

I have been following the calculators direction so far, and yes, I am using CSMB from Green Leaf Aquatics.

I will re-post my levels for reference.

You have sharp eyes, @burr740- I didn't see any algae on the myrio, but it may just be that I am not familiar with its natural color.

I am almost through with my first batch of fert liquid that I made up- so now would be a good time to start experimenting.

Any advice on how to start adjusting? Should I eliminate micros altogether? Reduce dosage?

My guess is that it could affect my other plants, right? Ultimately finding the right balance of which plants I want to keep in peak condition?

Here is a FTS from the morning- the myrio may not be happy, but it continues to grow .5-.75 inches a day in length.

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burr740

Micros Spiller
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Feb 16, 2015
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Not seeing much of a problem really. The AR looks nice and flat, so micros arent that far out of whack.

If you're dosing full EI, you could easily cut csmb in half, or reduce by 1/3. Maybe try something like that to begin with and see what happens. if anything starts looking worse all you gotta do is raise it back up.

And just to repeat what I said earlier, Im not saying micros are definitely an issue for you. Just that high PH + inert sub + csmb = a very likely suspect.
 

geektom

Junior Poster
Dec 16, 2012
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For reference, here is the dosing I got from the Rotala butterfly calculator- using 177 ml bottles and 10ml dosing. Macros M/W/F, micros T/Th/Sa and 50% water change on Sunday.

K2SO4:
K 7.5
S 3.08

KH2PO4:
PO4 1.3
P .42
K 1.07

KNO3:
NO3 7.5
N 1.69
K 4.73

CSM+B:
Fe 0.2
Mn 0.057
Cu 0.003
Mg 0.043
Zn 0.011
Mo 0.002
B 0.025
dGH 0.01


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geektom

Junior Poster
Dec 16, 2012
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I also have adjusted my CO2 down a little, because I added shrimp. I would have expected that to affect the other plants before the myrio, but I could be wrong. I had always heard the P. stellata was a very demanding plant, but it is thriving even with moderate CO2 levels.


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