This site is supported by the advertisements on it, please disable your AdBlocker so we can continue to provide you with the quality content you expect.
  1. We are after as many aquarium plant images that we can get, doing so will assist us in completing the aquarium plant database.

    https://barrreport.com/threads/aquatic-plant-images-wanted.14374/
    Dismiss Notice

First Time Setting Up 250 Gallon Planted Tank

Discussion in 'General Plant Topics' started by Lou Ahlquist, Oct 8, 2018.

  1. Lou Ahlquist

    Lou Ahlquist New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2018
    Messages:
    3
    Likes Received:
    0
    Local Time:
    2:04 PM
    As this is my first post regarding this issue. The last time the tank was set up it housed sps coral. This is a whole new frontier for me. I would greatly appreciate some feedback to get me off to the right start.

    My goal it to have a CO2 system with medium light. My Plan A is to have the CO2 controlled by a pH controller running the CO2 into a Mazzi venturi injector. Should this go directly into the tank or should I run it into the sump first and through a bubble trap in the sump. Am I on the right road using a Mazzi? What would be a really good alternative CO2 system for this size tank? I have CO2 bottles and good regulators. I need a solenoid for the pH controller and a bubble counter/accurate needle valve.

    I was going to use 10-20 litres of 25mm siporax in the sump to establish a healthy biological filter to break down NO3, Ammonia and other nutrients


    Another question is that I've read some posts that say that sumps cause CO2 to outgas. If it was completely covered would the gas get out? Is it truly a concern?

    Is there a way to minimize water changes by monitoring all nutrient levels being dosed into the system?
    Are there folks that have large planted tanks that can control nutrient balance (by measuring levels) so as to not need large water changes. This is a concern since I will have almost 250 gallon tank plus sump = ~270 gallons using RO water for water changes. Is there any other way of minimizing this? That is a lot of RO water to make each week.

    I am under the impression that Aquaray LED lighting is one of the most efficient products. Is that the general consensus? Another issue is in how many LED watts are used per gallon? Watts per gallon seems to be used interchangeably with t5's, is that correct? I thought LED's lighting is more energy efficient and produces more lumens per Watt then T5's?
     
    #1 Lou Ahlquist, Oct 8, 2018
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2018
  2. rajkm

    rajkm Article Editor
    Staff Member Lifetime Member Article Editor

    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2015
    Messages:
    599
    Likes Received:
    160
    Local Time:
    7:04 PM
    I would inject directly to a tank or into a reactor.
    Sumps do offgas but a sealed one will maintain good levels. In the end the goal is to have stable levels, no matter how much off grass get a 1.1-1.2 PH drop and maintain it.
    The importance of O2 is understated at times. It allows you to keep the CO2 levels high without stressing fish.
    If you are using buffering soil, I would not use the controller to maintain PH. The soil will drop your PH and you would end up with less CO2. Use the controller just to monitor the PH.

    You can get away with less WC by dosing less and monitoring your TDS creep. But I would rather do WC just because it helps reset the tank if something is wrong.
     
  3. Lou Ahlquist

    Lou Ahlquist New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2018
    Messages:
    3
    Likes Received:
    0
    Local Time:
    2:04 PM
    Thank you for your reply. Your answer has brought up more questions for me.

    When you say to "inject into tank" what are you using to inject the CO2?

    I liked the idea of using a pH controller to keep the CO2 level consistent. I was hoping its use would add stability to my system. I thought that by maintaining a constant level of say 3dkH would keep the pH from changing being that the dkh (carbonate and bicarbonate ions) is buffering the water and preventing pH changes. Wouldn't a constant dkH level determine the buffering capacity of the system and in turn, how much the pH will change when CO2 is added? Does it matter whether the dkH level is maintained by the use of buffering soil or by dosing additives? If I keep the dkH at a constant level won't I be able to dial in a pH value on the (pH) controller in order to control how much CO2 is being injected into the system?

    Sorry for all the questions. This will be my first freshwater planted tank after many years of maintaining my saltwater reef tank.

    How is the O2 level maintained in a planted tank? I was hoping my Vectra (0-2000 gph) pump would give the tank plenty of turbulence (gas exchange) required to keep O2 levels optimum. I also have an MP60 I can use if needed. I have a lot of equipment from my previous 250 gallon saltwater sps set up available.

    Do most people use covers over their planted tanks? If so, does this cut down on O2 in the system?

    Is there a way to measure all nutrient levels with test kits until the tanks requirements (dosing) are dialed in so as to not have to do such large water changes? Is measuring TDS a way of measuring all nutrients in the tank? I would like to minimize the amount of water needed because a 50% wc would be about 125 gallons. or 75 gal for 25%.
    If I'm understanding correctly from what I have read so far is that most people do large water changes as a blanket fix for resetting nutrient levels. It seems like a waste of water and nutrients. Again, I'm trying to wrap my head around the new culture (for me). I used to do a 10% wc monthly lol. Culture shock for sure!
     
  4. rajkm

    rajkm Article Editor
    Staff Member Lifetime Member Article Editor

    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2015
    Messages:
    599
    Likes Received:
    160
    Local Time:
    7:04 PM
    I used to use a reactor, now I am using a pump inside the tank to chop the bubble up. I will be going back to a reactor soon.

    Buffering soils like Amazonia, will take carbonates out of the water. Which means while you start with 3dKH, the KH might change over days as the soil keeps removing carbonates. This method will work with inert substrate but with soil, I wouldn’t use the controller,

    O2 in planted tank is maintained by surface agitation and photosynthesis. You will need to find the balance for your tank. I prefer a 10x turnover. If my filter is smaller, I add water circulators.

    Tests are available for most things we test for like KH, GH, Nitrate, Phosphate, Ammonia, Iron.
    TDS is just easier because let’s say after WC your TDS was 100. Once you dose the tank, let’s say your TDS creeps to 120. Now if plants are taking up the nutrients, your TDS will fall back towards 100. If not, and you dose again, your TDS will creep higher than 120. It’s simple way to test.
    https://sites.google.com/site/aquaticplantfertilizer/home/tds-meter
     
Loading...

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice