First High Tech please help answer these questions

Ryan Helms

New Member
Apr 11, 2022
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Houston, Texas
Hello my name is Ryan I am currently 14 and have been keeping fish since I was 7 i love this hobby and it has brought me so much joy. I have kept aquarium plants in the past but i have never been serious about doing an aquascape i have always wanted to but i did not have the financial means or knowledge too. I have been working on this project for 4 months now and it is going to be a high tech, swiss alps themed tank. I have done lots of research but we all know you cant trust everything you read online. So I have narrowed down to these 7 questions that are really holding me back and i would greatly appreciate it if you could spend some time to answer these questions.



So I am using pool filter sand which is inert but underneath it i have bags of aqua soil. I am worried though that there may not be enough nutrients for plants like monte carlo. i am not putting any heavy root feeders like swords or crypts. What do you think i should do?



My substrate is super fine like extremely fine. I am worried that it might restrict the roots of plants such as monte carlo. But this sand is super light and i mean super light i blows very easily but not to the point where like i cant control it. I also have high flow. So there would be a lot of flow and very light substrate but would plants like monte carlo still be able to grow fine.



I am going to be dosing fertilizers into the water column and will be using the 2 hour aquarist line of products. The 2hr 1 is made for lower tech tanks and the 2hr 3 is made for high tech tanks. when i start and lots of people said to start dosing like this. "start out with 2hr 1, for 1st week of tank being setup with plants do not dose ferts. After 1 week start adding in 1 dose a week of 2hr 1. Then move up to 2 dose a week then 3 dose a week. After that dose the 2hr 1 as you normally would. once the plants start periling and the tank starts to settle in start dosing 2hr 3 as regular dosing on bottle as instructed." But i am worried since it is a new tank and the substrate is inert that my plants may start dieing from nutrient deficiencies.



(this is a question about a different tank)I am using denitrification media and my tank is cycled cause I can put in ammonium chloride and the ammonia will spike up to 3 and then 24 hours all ammonia and nitrite and nitrate tests zero. So I know my tank is cycled but it reads zero nitrates which is what I want cause that’s why I’m using denitrification media. But can the plants still grow good with zero nitrate even though I’m dosing fertilizers so the nutrients are good but the nitrates are 0. I know i am dosing nutrients good and there is so much nutrients and aquasoil but nitrate is zero cause of denitrification. Like do plants even need the nitrates to grow good? Do I even need nitrates in a planted tank as long as nutrients are good?



I have had so much problems with diatoms in the past. Everybody says diatoms will go away with time which is usually true but my tank has lots of limestone in it so the phosphates and silicates are decently high. Which phosphates and silicates causes diatoms. So i was wondering if i could use chemical media such as Phosguards or Clearmax or other chemical media that removes phosphates and silicates. Some people say they work amazing in a planted tank and some people say your tank will be destroyed if you use these. So what do you think i should do? could i use these chemical medias in a planted tank? although as a biproduct of removing the phosphate and silicate these chemical medias also remove some nitrates so i guess this question kinda ties in with the above question.



I am using about 60 lbs of seriyu stone in my massive mountain range 30 gallon aquarium styled after the swiss alps. Now i am worried about this amount of stone in a small body of water and it leeching just a ridiculous amount of GH, and KH and raising PH. Most people with these kind of tanks say you just have to really keep up with water changes which is why i will be running an Auto Water Changer that takes out about a gallon of water daily. Im not using any super difficult plants my plants are like monte carlo and hydrocotyl tripartia and anubias and stuff like that. Do you have any experience with these types of tanks if so how did it go long term? Any recommendations or advice or concerns?



Probably the one thing messing with me the most right now is phosphates. I am so confused with them. I know that you need some phosphates in a planted tank. But i am unsure how to introduce phosphates into my tank. Also when introducing phosphorus into a tank through fertilizers does that also introduce phosphates. When you remove phosphate does that also mean your removing phosphorus. Is phosphates even needed? How much phosphates are needed?



Thankyou, Ryan H
 

Allwissend

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Jun 20, 2016
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www.intuitiveaqua.net
Hello and welcome to the forum. Nice to have you with us.


So I am using pool filter sand which is inert but underneath it i have bags of aqua soil. I am worried though that there may not be enough nutrients for plants like monte carlo. i am not putting any heavy root feeders like swords or crypts. What do you think i should do?
Nothing, water column fertilization will provide adequate nutrition to the plants.

My substrate is super fine like extremely fine. I am worried that it might restrict the roots of plants such as monte carlo. But this sand is super light and i mean super light i blows very easily but not to the point where like i cant control it. I also have high flow. So there would be a lot of flow and very light substrate but would plants like monte carlo still be able to grow fine.
Yes, many plants are found in sandy and muddy areas.

I am going to be dosing fertilizers into the water column and will be using the 2 hour aquarist line of products. The 2hr 1 is made for lower tech tanks and the 2hr 3 is made for high tech tanks. when i start and lots of people said to start dosing like this. "start out with 2hr 1, for 1st week of tank being setup with plants do not dose ferts. After 1 week start adding in 1 dose a week of 2hr 1. Then move up to 2 dose a week then 3 dose a week. After that dose the 2hr 1 as you normally would. once the plants start periling and the tank starts to settle in start dosing 2hr 3 as regular dosing on bottle as instructed." But i am worried since it is a new tank and the substrate is inert that my plants may start dieing from nutrient deficiencies.
Well the substrate is not inert as you said you will have bags of aquasoil underneath it. And based on that I would suggest:
- to start with the normal full regiment but
- do daily or every other day water changes for the first 2 weeks. This is because the aquasoil may release large amounts of ammonia in the water column at the start.
If aquasoil is absent and the fertilizers do not contain ammonia or urea I would still suggest you start the normal full dose.

(this is a question about a different tank)I am using denitrification media and my tank is cycled cause I can put in ammonium chloride and the ammonia will spike up to 3 and then 24 hours all ammonia and nitrite and nitrate tests zero. So I know my tank is cycled but it reads zero nitrates which is what I want cause that’s why I’m using denitrification media. But can the plants still grow good with zero nitrate even though I’m dosing fertilizers so the nutrients are good but the nitrates are 0. I know i am dosing nutrients good and there is so much nutrients and aquasoil but nitrate is zero cause of denitrification. Like do plants even need the nitrates to grow good? Do I even need nitrates in a planted tank as long as nutrients are good?


I have had so much problems with diatoms in the past. Everybody says diatoms will go away with time which is usually true but my tank has lots of limestone in it so the phosphates and silicates are decently high. Which phosphates and silicates causes diatoms. So i was wondering if i could use chemical media such as Phosguards or Clearmax or other chemical media that removes phosphates and silicates. Some people say they work amazing in a planted tank and some people say your tank will be destroyed if you use these. So what do you think i should do? could i use these chemical medias in a planted tank? although as a biproduct of removing the phosphate and silicate these chemical medias also remove some nitrates so i guess this question kinda ties in with the above question.

I will just say that all plants need a source of N and P. Take all of it away and the plants will stop growing and die. Keep them too low and the plants will be limited in their growth. If your goal is to grow plants you need to supply them with N and P and all the other nutrients from one source or another.

I am using about 60 lbs of seriyu stone in my massive mountain range 30 gallon aquarium styled after the swiss alps. Now i am worried about this amount of stone in a small body of water and it leeching just a ridiculous amount of GH, and KH and raising PH. Most people with these kind of tanks say you just have to really keep up with water changes which is why i will be running an Auto Water Changer that takes out about a gallon of water daily. Im not using any super difficult plants my plants are like monte carlo and hydrocotyl tripartia and anubias and stuff like that. Do you have any experience with these types of tanks if so how did it go long term? Any recommendations or advice or concerns?
Easy doable, just use/allow the water to be hard water with high KH. Rocks' "dissolving" rate is mainly driven by acidic pH. Allowing the KH to accumulate or having high KH in the first place will buffer the pH high enough to slow down the process. Frequent water changes have many benefits.

Probably the one thing messing with me the most right now is phosphates. I am so confused with them. I know that you need some phosphates in a planted tank. But i am unsure how to introduce phosphates into my tank. Also when introducing phosphorus into a tank through fertilizers does that also introduce phosphates. When you remove phosphate does that also mean your removing phosphorus. Is phosphates even needed? How much phosphates are needed?

Plants' main source of phosphorus(P) are (ortho)phosphates(PO4).(Ortho)phosphate has one phosphorus atom and 4 oxygen atoms. Frequently KH2PO4 is added to the tanks to increase phosphate. Most aquarium fertilizers that have P or P2O5 on the label will actually increase phosphates but have to follow reporting legislations for their bottles.

You can read more on fertilizing your tank here Original Estimative Index article: https://barrreport.com/articles/the-estimative-index-of-dosing-or-no-need-for-test-kits.38/[/QUOTE]