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FE and high KH

Discussion in 'Are you new to aquatic plants? Start here' started by jackpot21n, Jan 30, 2009.

  1. jackpot21n

    jackpot21n Junior Poster

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    I have been using CSM+B for trace and my plants do not look like they are getting enough iron. I have amazon swords and ozelot. Leaves on the amazons are very thin and almost yellow, you can almost see through them. The ozelots do not show any sighn of red leaves other than the spots on them, the leaves are green. I have even double dosed the CSM+B for more iron and no changes. I am woundering if the type of iron in CSM+B Is not as souluable in water that has a KH 5dg. I was thinking of trying Flourish Iron, but I'm not sure. Any recommendations? By the way I am not dosing CSM+B on the same day as PO4

    Thanks
     
  2. JJP2

    JJP2 Lifetime Charter Member
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    Transparent and yellow leaves can be signs of other deficiencies.

    What is your dosing regime, lighting, substrate and size of your tank?
    Is it in new leaves or only old leaves?


    John
     
  3. VaughnH

    VaughnH Lifetime Charter Member
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    How much light, and are you using CO2? More often than not, poor growth results from having more light than the available supply of carbon for the plants will support.
     
  4. jackpot21n

    jackpot21n Junior Poster

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    Yah I may have to much light. 2x54w t5ho Hanging 9" above 75gal tank. Photoperiod is 8hrs. I change 50% of the water per week and I dose a dash of PO4 NO3 and 1/4 tsp CSM and K, once a week. I do know that the plants are not keeping up with the Nitrates from the fish load as I test for NO3, and it is always rising. At WC NO3 would be about 5ppm but by the end of the week it is at about 15ppm. I do feed about 4 times a day though. 10 rasboras, 9 rummynose, 2discus(3"), 4 corys, and 2 otos. The plants are growing though, I trim old leaves about every 2 weeks. They just dont look like they are real healthy, and because I didnt see any red on the ozelot and the thin leaves on the amazons I thought it was Iron. It is prob CO2 though, and I am in no position to put a co2 system in place( the funds are not there now). I did also use excel for about 4 weeks when I got the plants but they did not look any healthier, they just grew faster. My substrate is plain gravel with plenty of flourish root tabs, about 1.5 tabs per plant.


    Is the fourish iron better than the CSM iron, or for that matter is the flourish comp better than CSM. I know it is more expensive but at the rate my plants use up the ferts a bottle would last me quite some time.


    As a side note, what would be a good plant substrate to use that would not wear away the corys barbels.


    Thanks again
     
  5. VaughnH

    VaughnH Lifetime Charter Member
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    The only substrate I have experience with that harmed corys was black blasting grit, which I got from a grit blasting supply business.

    If you aren't getting algae with that amount of light, I would leave it alone. It seems to me that you do have an appropriate amount of light for a non-CO2 tank. But, you may be short on phosphates. I'm assuming that your test kit has been calibrated, http://www.barrreport.com/estimative-index/3263-how-make-no3-po4-reference-solutions-repost-left-c.html, so you really do have enough nitrates. Without adequate phosphates the plants can't use the nitrates, and you are dosing very little phosphates.
     
  6. jackpot21n

    jackpot21n Junior Poster

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    Thanks Hoppy.

    The way I test for nitrates and phosphates, is just through your regular test kits. The particular test kits that I use is the sera NO3 and PO4. Not sure how accurate they are but as long as its in the ballpark I'm happy. I would have about 3ppm of PO4 after I dose after a waterchange, and between 5 and 10ppm NO3. I dont really even need to dose NO3 because of the NO3 produced by the fish load. Should I add about 5ppm of PO4 at the WC?
     
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