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Eye Of The Shrimptigers 20g

Discussion in 'Journals' started by Kyalgae, Dec 12, 2016.

  1. Kyalgae

    Kyalgae Lifetime Members
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    I have been thinking about how to minimize my workload when I'm looking after my tank and wondering what I should do about water changes, specifically if I should use my well water mixed with RO, or use a supplement to build my RO back up. I guess with the supplement I don't really know what's in it. If it increases GH and KH wouldnt it have to have the "right" things? Like magnesium? The well water route would be the easiest.


    Tom Barr Would it it be worth it to spend the money on an inorganic ion test to see what's in the well? I have access to water not run through a softener. I know that softened water isn't great because of the sodium? I would love your input on this. It's not exactly a cheap test, it's done by a regional lab, but I am curious.


    This test result is water after it has been SOFTENED. Just for reference, curiosity. The "limit" column is what is "safe" for drinking water.


    r05qz2h.png
     
  2. fablau

    fablau rotalabutterfly.com
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    Wow, I see nice traces in your water, no need to add more! Just Na is pretty high (sodium), no idea if that can be a problem though...
     
  3. Kyalgae

    Kyalgae Lifetime Members
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    I have cleaned everything, every surface, every tube!

    HGuc3Wv.jpg
    kj7ILaX.jpg

    I was reading through my thread, and I want to do this again, but keep it simple. No fish or shrimp, use Aquasoil, focus on water changes, and CO2.

    I didn't listen to Tom. The main reason was my method of water changes was labour intensive. I used those water cooler jugs, and I had to mix in remineralizer, because I was using RO. This time I have two 32g Brute buckets on wheels, each with a dedicated water pump/tubing. I am going to take my untreated, unsoftened well water, and mix it with 50% RO. I don't really know the real KH of the well water, I think its like 10, GH 12. I am guessing, I tested it years ago, my test kits are all expired. The mix comes out at 90 TDS (190 microsiemens).

    As for plants, I was thinking of ignoring the aesthetics of the layout, but just focus on growing maybe 3 or 4 plant species. But getting them to grow healthy. I remember that Tom mentioned in another posting that he grows plants in 20g longs, with Aquasoil and good CO2. If I ignore the layout, and try to keep plants spaced well, I could focus on the CO2.

    Plants I was thinking are:

    - Rotala 'bonsai'
    - Staurogyne repens
    - Cryptocoryne parva

    I don't want to grow any mosses, they sneak all over the tank and start growing, I don't really want to grow Rotala rotundifolia, because it gets tall really fast, and Anubias gives me nightmares, with it's algae prone leaves. I am open to suggestions! give me 3 or 4 plants you think I should grow, just for the sake of growing. The issue is that getting my hands on the plants can be a challenge, so if I have some other suggestions, I can grab it as an alternate. Tell me what you think. One other thing, how deep should my Aquasoil be? 2 inches? 1.5 inches?
     
    #63 Kyalgae, Aug 13, 2017
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2017
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  4. Dale Hazey

    Dale Hazey Junior Poster

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    lookin forward to this. Im a noob but
    why water changes if you have no fish or shrimps?
    I believe phishless is just topping off because he has no fish.
    wouldnt excess nutrients and top offs make life easier ?
    I keep rereading Barr's sticky about EI without water changes, or limited water changes.
     
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  5. DutchMuch

    DutchMuch Junior Poster

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    @Dale Hazey even without abiotic factors (not including plants) in the tank, I would do fifty percent. Reduces the Extra materials and etc in the water, as you know :p , but since he is restarting this tank im sure it wont be Fully planted from the start, so an algae outbreak if not careful could occur. Makes me think.
     
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  6. Kyalgae

    Kyalgae Lifetime Members
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    In my experience water changes always lead to better looking tanks, it's when I don't do them that things go up the creek. Also I would be doing pruning and moving. For me water changes include other regular maintenance. I have a low tech excel tank and when I do weekly changes things just look better.

    Also, Tom prescribed more water changes. He has thousands of hours of experience, that's something I won't ever have, you have to respect that advice.
     
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  7. DutchMuch

    DutchMuch Junior Poster

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    Yep, I agree, doesn't ADA do 2 water changes a week in there tanks?
     
  8. Kyalgae

    Kyalgae Lifetime Members
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    I started my tank 5 days ago.
    I planted the following tissue cultures:

    Micranthemum 'Monte Carlo'
    Staurogyne repens
    Cryptocoryne crispatula
    Myriophyllum guyana
    Hygrophila 'Arguaia'

    Initially I was just going to go for a couple plants, but I seemed to have picked plants with different leaf shapes and colours, so I found myself trying to make a setup that looked somewhat put together. I emptied out the tank and left a bit of water in the bottom to wet the Aquasoil.

    f4NOAOm.jpg WimDRmJ.jpg 2Afscks.jpg
     
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  9. Kyalgae

    Kyalgae Lifetime Members
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    I have been doing a 50-60% water change twice in 5 days, so far no algae. I have really pushed the CO2, because I have no livestock in this tank yet. My probe isn't calibrated so I am ignoring it. The plants are bubbling. KH, no idea, but I am using a 50/50 mix of unsoftened, iron-rich well water and RO, this is the easiest for me to make up, and it takes more labour out of water changes. I know it's heavy in iron because we have a prefilter just for the iron before it goes through the softener. But my water is taken before it goes through these filters.

    So far nothing really growing on the glass, no green stuff anyway. I am doing the water changes, and pumping more CO2 just like Dr. Tom suggested. I run my Eheim skim 350 on a lower setting all throughout the photoperiod, that way CO2 is more stable, instead of the way I was doing it before, on and off 20 times a day. I think I am getting over the noise aspect. My Vortec powerhead is off for now, until the plants get bigger, I feel like there's a ton of flow right now. I have an 8 hour photoperiod right now. So far so good!

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
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  10. DutchMuch

    DutchMuch Junior Poster

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    Extremely excited to see this tank grow!
     
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  11. Dale Hazey

    Dale Hazey Junior Poster

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    I concur with Dutch. Aquasoil and co2, this is going to be good. All tissue cultured plants! No snails! I'm following...
     
  12. DutchMuch

    DutchMuch Junior Poster

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    Only reason I'm following
    Is to find out his secret on "how to not kill TC plants immediately"
    Muahahaha

    Is this crypt balansae? or are they different?
     
    #72 DutchMuch, Aug 28, 2017
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2017
  13. Kyalgae

    Kyalgae Lifetime Members
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    From my googling it looks like balansae is the variety. cryptocoryne crispatula var. balansae might be a slightly different plant, not sure. I only reported what was on the culture label. To be honest I'm not too sure, maybe someone knows?
    Does it go genus, species, variety....what is a variety then in this sense?

    edit: after checking tropicas website it is cryptocoryne crispatula var. balansae.

    Those pond snails are buggers, they were hiding in my filter, so I gave them a huge dose of betel nut powder. I killed one baby the other day, hopefully they are all gone....but you never know.......
     
    #73 Kyalgae, Aug 28, 2017
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2017
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  14. DutchMuch

    DutchMuch Junior Poster

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    I was gonna say, my Crypt. Balansae is more... "large and thick"
    Its leave are a bit.. wider, not as full (the plant isn't as full, doesn't grow as fast it sounds even in perfect conditions), and has a much longer rhizome.
     
  15. Kyalgae

    Kyalgae Lifetime Members
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    DAY 11
    Woke up this morning to see some plants dying. At first I noticed the Monte Carlo going white in certain parts, they were the old portions of the plants, but there were smaller green leaves coming in, so I figured all was as it should be. Today other plants are going the same way, the hygrophila, staurogyne, and myriophillyum seem to be losing all colour and dying off. I have not see this before.

    Current stats:
    Light 8 hours 18w LED 35+ par at 12" (substrate is at 10")
    CO2 on 40 minutes before lights, off 10 minutes before dark. 8 bubbles per second
    No dosing of ferts
    Mix of well water and RO, GH:3 KH:3
    Temp: 77.7 degrees F (+/- 0.5F)

    The plants seemed to be pearling a lot, they are giving off tons of bubbles. I don't really know what going on. I have been doing a water change ever 2 to 3 days. I don't think after 11 days the aquasoil could run out of nutrients. The only thing I can think of is it's something in the untreated well water? Dunno, but things are dying with haste. I didn't have too much time to take the best pictures, maybe someone can make sense of whats going on. Could lowish GH cause this after 11 days?
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  16. DutchMuch

    DutchMuch Junior Poster

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    Pics not showing? :(
     
  17. Kyalgae

    Kyalgae Lifetime Members
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    4 pictures only, those other 4 are errors I couldn't correct.
     
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  18. Kyalgae

    Kyalgae Lifetime Members
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    So I did some more testing:

    Ammonia about 2ppm
    Nitrites: 5+ ppm
    Nitrates: not showing up 0 ppm

    My filter isn't cycled... I figured some bacteria would survive, but before I started, I did have it just sitting there unpowered. What's the best course of action? Water change? Or are my plants starving for nitrates?
     
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  19. Christophe

    Christophe Subscriber
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    The plants will more easily eat the ammonia than nitrate, as long as the level doesn't get too high and damage them -- don't worry about the macros, they are there. (Got potassium going in?) Change some water to keep the ammonia level down a bit so it's not killing everything, and give it more time. The bacteria will catch up sooner or later.
     
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  20. Kyalgae

    Kyalgae Lifetime Members
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    I have no dosing of potassium, I'm not dosing anything. I have dry monpotassium phosphate (KH2PO4) is that something I should add at this stage? I will change the water tonight. Thanks.
     
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