Experience with different methods?

I've been running Fluvals for about 15 years. The early units had a tendency to get brittle over time and leak or divert flow, but the newer ones seem to have those problems licked. They are still a pain to prime, but I need to do that so infrequently that it's a non-issue for me.

The 304 on my 55 is rock solid after five years and I think it's easy to service. Parts are plentiful, thought I've yet to need any for the newer model. It's in my bedroom and it's absolutely silent.

I don't have any experience with the FX5.


I've had a Rena XP3 on my 70 for a couple years now and it's been a fine filter. The inlet/outlet fitting kit that comewith it is nice if you've got a typical tank and/or requirements, but I had to build the outlet plumbing (after the hose) from scratch to accomodate my CO2 equipment and flow needs. I've got a vertical "spraybar" that runs the full depth of the tank so I don't have any surface agitation and still get good circulation in this odd-shaped tank (Perfecto/Marineland 70 Corner).

Anyway, the XP3 is also easy to service and quiet in operation, but it seems a bit less forgiving of hose routing. If you side-load the siamese connector at the canister, it will leak. It's low-tech priming provision works well for me. Nothing to break and it's fast. Nowhere near as elegant as the modern Eheims, but it works for me.



I've also gor a Vortex H.O.T. diatom filter that's a major pain, but with some mods it serves it's purpose well. I only use it occasionally for polishing and such.


In years past I had a HOT Magnum and thought it was a really good filter.


None of the off-the-shelf solutions seem to quite suit me, so I'll probably build my own "canister" next time around.

 

I also have an Eheim 2028 and I find it a really good filter.

The only issue is when cleaning. Their supposedely easy-start button often doesn't work and the filter needs to be filled and started manually. You won't have this issu if your inlet/outlet remain submerged during maintenance though.


To start it, I fill the filter manually after closing it, plug the hoses, push down the start-button and maintain it pressed. Plug the filter and release the button once it started

I found it relatively silent once the door of the cupboard is closed

 

Hi,

All Eheim auto-syphon stuff never worked. Neither Pro or Pro II versions. Don't know about ProIII and electronic models

If you keep all inlet/outlet extremities submerged during maintenance, it will auto-syphon as soon as you plug the hoses, without you do any thing

Now, if they got emersed during waterchange, the spontaneous auto-syphon on hoses plugging won't work. Here should come their auto-syphon button. But it doesn't work.

Now, if you understand how their canister is built, it is very easy to solve it. Actually, you have to close the canister, fill it with water from the hoses opening and then plug the hoses. When you press the auto-syphon button, it will push on the water making it rising to contact the impeller (supposing you well filled the canister as I explained above). The water will be sucked by impeller and the canister started (what actually happens is that the impeller is rotating dry, which is very bad). Then, you can release the auto-syphon button and the filter will work like a charm. You'll still need to shake it hardely to release all the trapped air

Once used to it, it is really done in less than 1mn