Eleocharis acicularis emersed question

jonny_ftm

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Mar 5, 2009
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Hi,

E tenellus being too invasive in my 45L dry starting nano, I replaced it with eleocharis acicularis 2 days ago. Plantlets were freshly bought from a Dennerle source, so probably should acclimate easily to the emersed setup.

I see that the needle shaped leaves stay sticked forming a thick unique stem. I fear that letting the leaves compacted as they are that the most inner ones rot/melt.

Should I try to aerate them separating the leaves as I can, cut the whole thing to 1-2cm above soil and let it grow or just leave them as they are and they will separate by them selves

Many thanks for your advice
 

Biollante

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Jun 21, 2009
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Yes!

I am not sure they can be killed!:eek: Eleocharis acicularis is a noxious, invasive weed, but the kind that should be more amenable then Echinodorus tenellus for your purposes;) .

I would leave them as they are, unless you are seeing or smelling rot. At the same time I don't think you will harm them, should you cut them back.

Love to cover all sides!:D

The only reason I would cut them back is if they appeared to be melting as a result of shipping.:)

Biollante
 

Matt F.

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May 30, 2009
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I've tried starting DHG using the immersed method (DSM) with little success.
I have heard that people have had success with this particular plant.

Some suggestions:

1) do not snip the tips (buds) of the DHG. If you do, mold will develop

2) plant the bunches with enough space so that each leaf of grass can dry throughout the course of the day. (no more than five leaves per bunch).

3) do not over water the new growth...just keep the soil/substrate wet...don't spray or mist.

I have successfully grown HC and DHG with the submersed method (old way) twice.

I had to abort the HC using the DSM due to a virulent strain of mold/fungus that took over my whole substrate. I think this had to do with the particular water conditioner I was using to moisten the plants daily.
 

jonny_ftm

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Mar 5, 2009
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Matt F.;39396 said:
1) do not snip the tips (buds) of the DHG. If you do, mold will develop

2) plant the bunches with enough space so that each leaf of grass can dry throughout the course of the day. (no more than five leaves per bunch).

Thanks for the valuable info. I didn't wait answers though, as yesterday night I followed my feelings looking at the plants: I realised I planted too much leaves /bunch. I never thought they were so thin and that they would clogg that way. I moved the leaves away from each other so that they can dry.

About cutting the tips, your advice looks very pertinent indeed. Once cut, the leaves decay. In emersed growth, too much decaying with such thin leaves could easily lead to mold with the high humidity, and the mold could spread rapidely. So, like you suggest, I'll avoid to cut them before the immersion phase. I think that they should do finer now since I seprated the leaves. I'll let you know

About your mold issue, I don't think it is a conditionner issue, but rather your daily misting. You shouldn't mist more than 1-2x/week, and once plants adapted and hygrometry well controlled, maybe 1-2x/15d is enough.

Thank you again for your help
 

Matt F.

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Jonny,

Glad I helped. Experiences and mistakes are the best teacher (next to people who have been there before).

I think the conditioner was the problem due to these factors:

The mold covered the whole substrate evenly, overnight.
The conditioner, when dried, was thick and formed a yellow crust
The ingredients of this "all natural" conditioner contained bacteria food and vit. C.

I agree with you when it comes to misting. I think that played into the problem. I was spraying waaaayyyy too much. I think the main water source for the DSM comes from the water in/under the substrate.

I'm actually having an HC problem...gotta start a thread...
 

jonny_ftm

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Mar 5, 2009
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The problem in emersed is that you're tempted to open the tank often for some "maintenance" / look. But, if your ambiant air is too dry, you have to mist while the lid is open too long If you do this daily, then fungus will come. My Pogostemon Helferi had a very localized fungus, and also a spot in tenellus where leaves were a bit dense. I now mist every 5-7 days and all is fine, no fungus traces. And yes, it appears very quickely, over the night, like fungus we eat. They grow very very quickely after the rain, in one night. Hopefully I'm now spared
 

jonny_ftm

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Mar 5, 2009
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Hi,

It's doing so great. The C. Parva is growing many surrounding shoots, Eleocharis is producing new leaves and shoots but will need a few weeks more as I planted it later. The P. Helferi is looking nice but it no longer grows. It is very slow and no new shoots. I suspect the heavy temperature reaching 28°C in the tank since 2 weeks. But, it didn't degrade and leafs are beautifully shaped and coloured.

No mold, no surface algae, misting 1x/5d on these hot days

It will be hard to immerse, I'll miss this "nothing to maintain" emersed growing

I'll post photos on the main topic of this nano in 1-2 weeks
 

Tom Barr

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No reason to add water if you like it and it's very little "work":cool:

C parva really grows well and makes fast growth and then can be planted in large thickets in your tank later.

Many plants do.

Spring/summer fall can really add a lot of good easy to grow plants this method and then you can sell them off, or use them as a source.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 

jonny_ftm

Guru Class Expert
Mar 5, 2009
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Sorry for late answer,

Yes, really no need to add water as you say. Sadely, this one was really built to be aquarium, my first aquascape try.

But guess, I'll go in pot growing as you say, so easy, and this no maintenance is really great

Thank you again Tom for this great new way to start an aquarium