EI schedule advice for 33G

George Farmer

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Sep 6, 2006
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Hi Tom,

I'm after an EI dosing regime for my 125 litre (33 US gal.) please.

Tap water is GH 14, KH 7, NO3 20ppm, PO4 5ppm

Light - 2.5 wpg, 9 hours

CO2 mist @ 30ppm (ref. 4dKH solution in dropper)

Plants - Java ferns, Anubias nana, substrate covered with various crypts (balansae, undulata, wendtii, parva).

For trace I'm using TMG.

Thanks in advance.
 

Tom Barr

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Well, you can do a few things.
1.You can do 2x a week 50% water changes and not dose N or P, but add K2SO4/MgSO4 and traces. That's my fav, relies heavily on the tap being at those levels..........which may or may not be the case.

2. Once a week water change and then 3-4 days later add some KNO3/KH2PO4, about 1/4 tsp:1/16th tsp and 1/2 teaspoon of K2SO4.

TMG: about 7 mls 3x a week

You can reduce some of the dosing if you have a decent sized fish load/routine feeding. But you need to increase surface movement and up CO2 if you add more fish.


Regards,
Tom Barr
 

George Farmer

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Thanks Tom.

The NO3 and PO4 readings are from my water supplier, but I wonder if these stay the same all-year round? I never test for NO3 and PO4 these days.

My current regime is daily -

5ppm NO3 via KNO3
3ml TMG
no KH2PO4

60% water change per week.

Fish - 18 pentazona barbs

I assume I could expect better faster growth by adding KH2PO4 and K2SO4?

Problem algae is non-existent, so I guess I don't need to change. But I want to see the crypts grow quicker.....

Thanks again.
 

Tom Barr

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George Farmer;15292 said:
Thanks Tom.

The NO3 and PO4 readings are from my water supplier, but I wonder if these stay the same all-year round? I never test for NO3 and PO4 these days.

So essentially that is an unknown that you will rely your dosing routine on.

Generally they do stray, these are averages.
But..........

Can we make some safe assumptions here?
That their measurements are correct.....at least the averages.
As long as the NO3 does not dip below say 5-10pmm and the PO4 below 1 ppm or perhaps 2ppm etc, you ought to be fine.

Adding a little of each just in case will not really elevate the nutrient levels that much.

Larger water changes mitigate that also.

So integrating a dosing plan that accepts those assumptions and plays it on the safe side for higher nutrients, is likely a good plan.

Anytime you are not sure about the tap source or other NO3/PO4 sources, it becomes harder to say much about those measures and ranges.

The only risk is a higher range than perhaps you ideally want, that's not an issue for PO4 or K+ at all.

NO3?
It's more a user defined parameter that we make. How much is bad? I'm not sure. I know what is not bad based on research, based on experience. But just having high levels to have them? Some do this with K+. PO4 is perhaps less on any issue, but folks have no obligation to have extremely high NO3.

Most Fish only folks say 60-100ppm requires water changes.

Optimal plant growth + min NO3 suggest about 20-30ppm as the best range based on the resarch as well practical experience.


5ppm NO3 via KNO3
3ml TMG
no KH2PO4

60% water change per week.

Fish - 18 pentazona barbs

I assume I could expect better faster growth by adding KH2PO4 and K2SO4?

Problem algae is non-existent, so I guess I don't need to change. But I want to see the crypts grow quicker.....

Thanks again.

The PO4 will not hurt, there's a lot already in the tap it seems.
You should note differences in the tank after a water change(do these after the light has been on an hour or two).
You have plenty of K already.
You can add a spot of KH2PO4 mid week likely and see if you see any increase in pearling.

If you want better growth etc, whip a tank into shape for photo shoots, clean it very well, scrub glass down, hoses, clean filter etc every week, do 2x a week 60-70% water changes, dose well etc, dose a lot the day before a water change(mega dosing), then remove it.

If you do this, stay on top of pruning etc, then do the large, say 80% water change, exposure the plants to air for 15- 30 minutes, then refill, take a pic later that night etc, that will optimalize the tank.

Regards,
Tom Barr