EI for 300 gallon tank

Given the limited success of other methods, you do not mention them, it might have little to do with that and more to do with CO2/light etc.

EI is not going to save anyone from those issues, nor is any method.
As EI has richer non limiting suggestions, it might is some cases where high light is present and the folks add enough CO2. Likewise, say PMDD where PO4 is limiting may work reasonably well where EI might not if the CO2 is low, and not noted by the aquarist or assumed to be the same.

So there's more to it than this.

In a high light 350 Gal, I add this weekly:

High fish load and well fed.
50-60% weekly water change
Trim, clean well.

3-4x a week:
1 table spoon of KNO3
1 teaspoon KH2PO4
75 mls of TMG

After water change only: 1.5 Table spoons of GH booster

Sometimes the CO2 tank runs out when I'm not around. So I might get a tad of algae at high light before getting to change the gas tank, I'll have them add Excel at 150mls for a week or two and things are reset and clean again.

That's about it.

Mostly a CO2 tweaking is about all I really need to worry about.
Tank has been up and stable for 4 years now.









Regards,
Tom Barr

 

Gerry, folks will come to understand and learn more as they get more involved over time. Hard not too really. Everyone has their own pace and learns when they so chose. I do however go after folks that want to talk the talk, ask the questions, bicker endlessly, but then claim they do not really want to know why or claim they do not care that much. I do wail on folks when they say things counter or are just being wind bags and not helping much.

If someone wants just the simple stuff and nothing more, that's their goal and a specific question. I pointed out why the light/CO2 other methods may not have given them the best results.

Those are the common errors, so this way they are covered with the minimal jargon. They will talk Plant jargonese later on

This person has bought into it already, but just wants to know what to add to make sure.

Give them time. They just wanna know how, once successful, then they can pursue more in depth stuff and are more confident and familiar.
It's a lot to take in in most folk's case.
And that's the simple version.

I felt the same way when I first started out and did not want to display my own ignorance. I still feel quite stupid about a great many topics in the aquarium hobby and have never considered my self an "expert", those are labels given to me by other folks. I'm a bone head and feeble minded............
But I know it at least and try to make plans to avoid some of that.
If someone brings up why, then I'll try to answer that, "How" question are easy

Do not give me more work Gerry, hehe.


Regards,
Tom Barr

 

I knew it!
Haha, yes, many folks are in this boat.

Well, I can give some hints to reduce the pain and make the pesky bugger easier for you.

I think a huge back ground in plant Physiology and science is NOT the least bit required. I had a nice looking set up without any schooling or real background other than some fish keeping.

Some are curious and want to know more with time, some just want a specific goal, nothing more, they have other interest etc.

Well, you are a caring owner, that much is evident.
With that, you can go a long way with the tank.

More than any know it all without the caring..........

Some questions shall follow.

Regards,
Tom Barr

 

Steve,

1. Since the tap is nice and soft, great, jujst add the GH booster, do not worry about the KH at all(as ling as it's 5 degrees or less).

2. How is the water change set up done right now?
Do you use a siphon etc and refill with tap or RO etc?

3. Filter type here.
Flow, wet/dry sump, pumps etc etc

4. Type of lighting, watts, bulb types etc.

5. Fish load planned.

I'll tell you CO2 will be the biggest issue and you may need to fiddle with it a fair amount to get it dialed in, after which is should be fairly stable.

The nutrients, truthfully, are very easy.

If you can set the tank up to turn a valve to quickly drain it 60%, and turn another to refill it somewhat quickly, this will make your life much easier, this can be done DIY or hire a plumber to make it like flushing a toilet.

When you need to work on the tank and get in there, this will make it 20X easier(when it's 1/2 full).

Otherwise you are wet, make a mess, cannot reach some spots without dipping the head in.

Get some Excel for problems, Big Al's sells 4 liter amounts 37$.
Tropica master grow is good and they sell 5 liter jugs also.

GH booster and the ferts you can get on line as well.
They are cheap.

If you have HQI/MH's lighting, run them only 4-5 hours and during business hours, use the PC's, FL's, T5's only during the hours before and after the MH's.

If you have a wet dry sump, raise the level in the over flow(if built in) to about 2-3" below the water level in the tank, so you will need to cut and add a new standpipe, see Hofner Gruggle buster for keeping the sucker quiet.

Duct tape the Wet/dry box lid up so that no air can escape in/out of the dry section in the sump. This is important as you will see later.

CO2, feed into return pump.
Dialing in the right amount of CO2 is not going to be that easy.
Anyone that tells you otherwise is full of crap.

If you have an issue raise the light up and reduce the hours.
This will reduce the CO2 demand.

90-95% of all the issues will be due to CO2 as long as you maintain the water changes, light, and normal maintenance.

Select plants that require less light also and consider reducing the intensity of the light.

You might want to think of a cooler deep forest feel, the discus will pop out and color up better.

Not the harsh intense light.
More light = more work.

Something you will not want.

Where is this located?
I might know someone.

Regards,
Tom Barr

 

Steve, I'm in Sacramento
I go to Tahoe all the time.

I know most of the hillbilly backroads, as that is where I often explore wherever I live.

I can do some work for you if you want.
PM me.

I travel to the Bay area weekly do do work for clients.
I ain't cheap, but I can get things going and then you can relax and have things set up easier and be able to do it yourself. I did that for a client in LA.

Results:


The tank looks much better than this now, this was about 9 months ago



I'd suggest a sump/overflow, Bag filter, some sponge and about a Iwaki RT 55 or so.

As far as adding more circulation, the Sureflow Adaptors for the Maxi jets or the Seio Rio pumps are excellent, one or two would be plenty.

No, the drop checkers are not particularly good IME, they are slow response and they are not easy to determine the color.

WC- the hot and cold tap is all you need, add directly and plumb right into the tank. You can test via your hand and it's about accurate to 2 F so you can adjust the tap to suit easily. No need to pre mix water and then add to the tank later, this is not Marine saltwater fortunately.

Amano shrimp can last awhile in the tank, but adult Discus will eat any they can catch. 200 is more like the numbers you need.

Also, with clients, I get all live stock at wholesale.
So the cost is much much lower(wholesale + 10%), even though I'm not cheap.
I make up cost savings in other areas.

While I do take on long term clients, most are more inclined to have me help them, then teach them how to care for it. The other thing that can be done is once a month and then you deal with it at a lower key level 3 weeks(say just water changes).
I did this for the CEO for Levi's here.
He does pretty well and no longer needs me.

T5 upgrade will help.
I'd go no more than 10 hours tops for light.

I think the CO2 may still be an issue, Controllers are only as good as delivery system they try to control, it does not imply they are really controlling CO2.

Seems like the tap is similar, we get it from the same water shed.

Regards,
Tom Barr

 

Do not sweat it Gerry, we all love ya.
I've been on line with folks for a long long time and can "smell" the goals some have pretty well.
I go off on things very often myself.
More than you.

Main thing is to help the person and resolve the issue. Some folks have bad attitudes, some are just looking for help at some specific level.
The web is hard to communicate vs in person. We all see and know that!

Haha, I was joking here, just so you know. Do not let my web persona fool you.

No intent taking away anyone's fire here or anything like that. Do not hold back in the future


Regards,
Tom Barr