Eheim 2080 or 2260 or 2262 for 180(4'x2'x3'tall) planted tank?????

Lakehouse

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I am setting up a new FRESHWATER PLANTED TANK that is 4'x2'x3'tall(approx.180gal). I would like to use just 1 filter on it instead of running 2 like I have done in the past on other tanks.

Also, my tank will be custom made and I want to have it drilled on the bottom and use loclines but I can't order the tank till I know how many holes to have drilled(and what size). I know the 2080 would require 3 holes as opposed to the 2260/2262 only needing 2 holes. There will not be any overflow on this tank.

What filter would you guys recommend that will not blow my plants out of the water but will still allow plenty of circulation? I plan on stocking it with a large school of rummy nose(~100) and angelfish(10ish?).

I'm leaning towards the 2262 but am afraid it might be too much flow. Is there a way to adjust the flow on this filter without burning up the motor?

Thanks in advance!
 

Gerryd

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Hi,

I am doing a custom 220 and decided NOT to drill the bottom...this was after much thought and 'discussion' here and with Tom...I had wanted from the start to go that route but decided not to...but my application and configuration/goals are different than yours...

Where will you place the holes?

Suggestions:

1.5 or 2" bulkhead for the intake. You can then feed your dual intake eheim models if desired....Or split to also feed a UV or hydor inline heater....

3/4-1" for the outlets....

The more input flow you have the more output you can have and more flexibility if desired...you never know if things will change in the future....

I personally think both of your choices may be too small for your goals and tank size...will you use c02? How will you diffuse it? the gph will be a bit optimistic from the mfg and head height, etc may also reduce a bit....better to overfilter than under...

Will you run a UV and heater from the canister?

I have a 180 and have kept many hundreds of small fish but I still tend to overfilter..angels on the other hand can be large and will produce a lot of waste... keep that in mind...they will also eat your rummies as they get bigger if they can catch them....and they will certainly try....

Hope this helps.
 
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Lakehouse

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If I understand you correctly, you are saying don't drill the bottom but instead drill the back wall?
Hi,

No. I am suggesting DO NOT DRILL it at all.

I was only suggesting bulkhead SIZE and configuration as I assumed you would go forward with drilling the bottom...Up to you where placed, but the bottom seems better than a wall...

Sorry for any confusion....
 
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Lakehouse

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What filter(s) would you recommend for this size tank? Co2 reactor, no uv, probably a inline heater
 

Cyclesafe

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I don't think you'll blow away your plants with a 2262. I have a Eheim 1262 internal pump (zero head) pushing water through 3 ugj nozzles and a spray bar in a 120 gal tank and my plants just sway gently in the current. (n.b. there are no plants right in front of the nozzles...)
 

DukeNJ

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2080 because the eheim pro 3 series are very well designed, best of all worlds, and easiest to maintain of canisters, that is until the fluval Gs arrived. There isn't a single G adequate for this size tank, but a 2080 should be.
 

Lakehouse

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Well, it seems half the people say 2080 and the other half say 2262. Hmmmmm...... I'm curious to hear back from gerryd as he said he thinks they both would be too small- Not sure what is bigger without going to multiple filters.

Ps-I REALLY appreciate everyones suggestions and time :)
 
H

Htomassini

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I suggest getting two nu clears in series first a 25micron with purigen in middle followed by one filled with bio balls all running with a mag 2400 or better. You can always plumb a ball valve after the last filter and get the flow to where you like it. I have. 210 with 12 full grow. Discus and my nuclear micron can go 2 to 3 weeks before it needs cleaning.
 

dutchy

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I agree with Gerry. One 2080 will leave you with just 250 gph of flow. That's kind of low for an 180. I'm using two 2078e's, which have the same pump capacity as the 2080, and give me a total of 500 gph. Plants hardly move like that.

I'm using two AM1000 reactors and an Hydor inline 300W heater
 

Jim Miller

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A single 2080 or 2078 is far too small for a 180 if used alone. I've got a very efficient plumbing setup with a 2078 on my 90g combined with an auxiliary loop for additional flow. I'm changing the aux flow pump from a 1058 to a 1250 and the flow looks like it will finally be adequate.

Be very careful when choosing filters to include the plumbing twist and turns. You quickly run out of space on a 4ft tank.

You may also find that getting sufficient flow through a single filter path alone to be a noisy and power consuming proposition. Quiet pumps are a rarity and you can quickly move above 100w if you need to force a lot of water through filters.

Those reasons led me to parallel circuits.

Good luck

Jim
 

Lakehouse

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Well my tank is going to be in the wall with all the equipment in my laundry room so noise isn't really a factor. I have really been leaning towards the 2262 but then, the more I think about it, what is going to push my am1000 reactor and my inline heater? I guess the heater would be ok on the high gph of the 2262(not sure, haven't looked into this yet), but my am1000 says max gph is 250 which means I would either need another filter/pump to run this....correct?

Jim and Dutchy, what would you run for filtration and how would you utilize the heater and reactor(s) in such set-up? I would like a "spot" for a uv too if I decide to buy one down the road. Do you agree with Gerry too in regards to NOT drilling the tank and why?

Thanks SOOOOO much guys for all your help!

Tim
 

Gerryd

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Hi,

The choices are all yours of course, but here are some thoughts on why I chose a different path:

1) Keep filtration and c02 separate if possible. Your tank is large enough that either of these components is a big part of it...Let the filter filter and run the c02 on a separate pump...As your filter clogs and it is running a reactor or UV, the performance of these components will suffer as the flow decreases.

2) How will you 'hide' the inlet and outlet bulkheads inside the tank? They will be visible above your substrate..I was going to have 2x1.5" inlets and 4x1" outlets and was struggling with placement as I wanted the flexibility to view the tank from ALL 4 SIDES. I will now be able to do this :)

3) I currently run a single large pump to run two parallel nu-clear filters (mech and bio) and to provide additional tank flow. I chose parallel over series so as the mech filter clogs, the flow simply flows to the bio canister or the other flow ports.....so all flow gets used regardless...

4) I used internal rio diy needle wheel pumps for c02 inside the tank but are hidden tastefully :)

5) 3 feet of depth will look nice but will be harder to clean the glass and reach the substrate unless you have very long arms....I went from 24" to 20" in height for looks mostly but also a bit easier to reach...

May I ask why you picked your particular dimension? Just curious :) I chose 72x20x36 for my custom tank...

I am going to use a CPR overflow and large wet/dry sump for the new tank for filtration.

You may want to browse this thread to see where my head was at with some of these decisions....

http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8435-New-Tank-Build-Thread

Or PM me if you want to know why I did what I did.
 

Lakehouse

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Hi Gerry,
Please tell me more about these rio needle wheel pumps. I have nt heard of them nor do I know what they look like.

I picked these dimensions because the wall in my living room is only 4.5' long. It backs to my laundry room so I can go as wide as I would like and obviously I can go as tall as I would like. I wanted as big of a tank as I could fit and since I only have 4' in length to work with I thought I'd take advantage of the height. I thought about going to 30-36" on the width, but with it in the wall, and not being able to see the sides, I wasn't sure if that would look weird-like looking into a tunnel.

Are nu-clear filters the same as ocean clear filters? What pump are you using? What are you using for media in the two?

How are you able to view the tank from all 4 sides? You still have your in and out from the filters hanging over the top lip into the tank plus wires for these "needle wheels"?

What do you think about the size in respect to the wall I have to work with? I haven't ordered the tank yet, so I'm trying to figure all this out with the help of people like yourself :)

Thanks.
Tim
 

Jim Miller

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How will you do aquascaping on a 3ft high tank? You may need a mask, fins and snorkel.

I find 2ft to be all I can handle.

Jim
 

Gerryd

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Please tell me more about these rio needle wheel pumps. I have nt heard of them nor do I know what they look like.

This is fairly simple but there are threads specifically on needle wheel pumps...

http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/5809-Needle-wheel-DIY-modifications

You just use a normal powerhead such as the rio brand or any other. You then snip/cut/bend the impeller blades and reuse. When c02 is introduced to the INTAKE of the pump, it is chopped up very well before being pushed to the tank. The powerhead flow can be directed where desired and mixed with say the outlet flow from the filters....

Many pumps like the danner mags and the rios have OEM needle wheel impellers for use in venturi setups like skimmers for salt water.

Here is a link to the mag drive:

http://www.marinedepot.com/Danner_M...anner_Mfg.-DN1159-FIWPSBUFPO-DN1161-1-vi.html

I picked these dimensions because the wall in my living room is only 4.5' long. It backs to my laundry room so I can go as wide as I would like and obviously I can go as tall as I would like. I wanted as big of a tank as I could fit and since I only have 4' in length to work with I thought I'd take advantage of the height. I thought about going to 30-36" on the width, but with it in the wall, and not being able to see the sides, I wasn't sure if that would look weird-like looking into a tunnel.

Since it is custom why not go 54" length? It is for you after all....I don't think the depth would look wierd but your height may be a pain to maintain long term....

Are nu-clear filters the same as ocean clear filters? What pump are you using? What are you using for media in the two?

Yes, just a 1" in/out vs a 3/4 for the OC. The OC has a builtin UV model that is not offered by NC. I use the micron cartridge in the mech canister and bio-balls in the bio canister. I use a blackfin 3600 gph pump to run both canisters. My config has a 3rd parallel leg for a mazzei for c02, but I went needle wheel and this flow is now directed back to the tank for surface agitation.

That is also important when using c02. Ensure you have good surface agitation and perhaps additional 02 when c02 is on to be safe.

How are you able to view the tank from all 4 sides? You still have your in and out from the filters hanging over the top lip into the tank plus wires for these "needle wheels"?

I live in an apt. I wanted FUTURE flexibilty in case I had a house and more room...But, I am slim so can orient the tank about 18-24" from the walls so I and others can walk around it easily...It will take a bit more floor space in the room, but I have plenty and it is just me. It is meant to be a focal point after all :)

I will be using a CPR overflow and a sump. My needle wheel will be IN THE SUMP so no issues there.. I will have to hide the overflow and the two intake tubes and the outlet tubes from the sump, but that can be done tastefully and with the use of emergent plants included for a nicer green look. I think it is easir to hide the overflow and a few tubes than the bulkheads......

What do you think about the size in respect to the wall I have to work with? I haven't ordered the tank yet, so I'm trying to figure all this out with the help of people like yourself :)

Since it is custom you may as well use what you have.. don't be afraid to go more length. Your ends may be a bit darker if using a 48" light fixture but that can easily be handled with lower light plants on the ends...

I do think that 36" of height will look nice in the wall but will be hard to clean the glass.

What type of critters will you have? If angels or discus, taller is better, but not for schooling fish.....

You may also want to consider that planted tanks appreciate extra flow to carry nutrients and c02 and remove waste products..Since your dims are a bit larger, a small powerhead or two may be needed.
 
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Gerryd

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Hi,

You may want to review the c02 forum and the various stickies and articles...

Tom posts many details of his 180 and quite a few of the members have larger tanks with much detail of what they did/used and why.

Much great discussion but will take time to assimilate it all..

Here is a link to my custom build with all details of hardware to be used and configuration...

You can start at page 6 if you like to get a nice summary....

http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8435-New-Tank-Build-Thread
 
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Lakehouse

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Apr 21, 2011
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Why the needle wheel pump as opposed to a reactor, that would eliminate a piece of equipment inside the tank?

Is the nu-clear a 25 micron filter like the Model [HASHTAG]#533[/HASHTAG]? What model is the bio? What pump pushes them? I REALLY like the idea of these set-ups, but everyone was really swaying me to the monster eheims.
 

Lakehouse

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Apr 21, 2011
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Gerryd;64717 said:
Hi,

You may want to review the c02 forum and the various stickies and articles...

Tom posts many details of his 180 and quite a few of the members have larger tanks with much detail of what they did/used and why.

Much great discussion but will take time to assimilate it all..

Will do! Thanks!