Dual Stage Regulators

eiginh

Prolific Poster
Sep 17, 2009
38
0
6
Yes it was! Thanks I thought the highlighted words had an hyperlink. With that in mind, all I need to do is hook a power supply cord? I think I have a bunch laying around my house. I'm still waiting for the regulator, I moved and so the item needed to be forwarded but it's been a week already!

Left C, can you reopen the victor pimp club thread? I still saved a few pm's from you but the links provided that lead to certain post won't open b/c the thread is closed. All I need to do is print it out and we're good to go!
 

Left C

Lifetime Members
Sep 26, 2005
2,500
1
36
72
Burlington, NC
Hi eiginh

Momotaro closed the thread. I'm not a mod at TPT and I don't have any control over what they do or don't do.

I can get around on the Victor thread. Are you sure that you can't?

If not, let me know what you need and I'll see what I can do. Remember there is a directory on page 1 that may help.

Left C
 

eiginh

Prolific Poster
Sep 17, 2009
38
0
6
It was the fittings from the co2 tank to regulator to solenoid then from solenoid to metering valve. The pimp thread works, just the pm's you sent that links to certain posts do not.
 

jonny_ftm

Guru Class Expert
Mar 5, 2009
821
2
16
Are those Solenoid valves that overheat? Some generations, called electronic, are stated to be very economical on electricity as they don't heat quiet at all
 

Left C

Lifetime Members
Sep 26, 2005
2,500
1
36
72
Burlington, NC
jonny_ftm;43602 said:
Are those Solenoid valves that overheat? Some generations, called electronic, are stated to be very economical on electricity as they don't heat quiet at all
I haven't heard of any problems with these Parker solenoids.

Some people are overly concerned with Clippard solenoids getting hot. I have 4 of them and I don't have a problem. I have one that runs 24/7. I can put my hand on it and it doesn't burn me. It's warm, but not hot.

I don't think that Clippard would not have them on the market if they were defective.
 

Left C

Lifetime Members
Sep 26, 2005
2,500
1
36
72
Burlington, NC
eiginh;43600 said:
It was the fittings from the co2 tank to regulator to solenoid then from solenoid to metering valve. The pimp thread works, just the pm's you sent that links to certain posts do not.
Are you still wanting to use SS parts?

There are two posts on the following link to page 4 that has pictures and part numbers for the Swagelok SS fittings. They are posts #32 and #33. I added these a few days ago. Click on the part numbers and you go to Swagelok's site for more info about each one.

http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php?t=6470&page=4
 

eiginh

Prolific Poster
Sep 17, 2009
38
0
6
It was the fittings from the co2 tank to regulator to solenoid then from solenoid to metering valve. The pimp thread works, just the pm's you sent that links to certain posts do not. Anyway... I think I found it on Table of Contents.

Please correct me if I'm wrong. *Numbers relate to the order connected to regulator

1. Regulator
2. 1/4" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple
3. 1/8" FPT x 1/8" MPT elbow
4. Clippard solenoid
5. 1/8" MPT x 1/8" mpt hex nipple
6. Needle/Meter Valve
7. 1/8" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple
8. JBJ bubble counter

Sealant should be teflon pape or non hardening pipe joint compound

Swagelok SS part # (relation to the steps above)
1. SS-4-HRN-2
2. SS-4-RB-2
3. SS-2-HN
4. SS-4-ME
5. SS-2-HC-1-2
6. SS-2-HC-7-2
I think I'm missing a step...

Anyways in order to do this set up (zip tieing)
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/private.php?do=showpm&pmid=853351
or jonny_ftm's set up...What steps do I skip?

I hope this make sense...
 

Left C

Lifetime Members
Sep 26, 2005
2,500
1
36
72
Burlington, NC
eiginh;43606 said:
... Please correct me if I'm wrong. *Numbers relate to the order connected to regulator

1. Regulator
2. 1/4" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple
3. 1/8" FPT x 1/8" MPT elbow
4. Clippard solenoid
5. 1/8" MPT x 1/8" mpt hex nipple
6. Needle/Meter Valve
7. 1/8" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple
8. JBJ bubble counter
Notice that you have 4 parts listed here and 6 below.

eiginh;43606 said:
Sealant should be teflon pape or non hardening pipe joint compound
The non-hardening pipe joint compound is a better choice. Teflon tape can splinter and send small pieces into the solenoid.

eiginh;43606 said:
Swagelok SS part # (relation to the steps above)
1. SS-4-HRN-2
2. SS-4-RB-2
3. SS-2-HN
4. SS-4-ME
5. SS-2-HC-1-2
6. SS-2-HC-7-2
I think I'm missing a step...
What needle/metering valve are you using? Angle or Straight Through??

1. SS-4-HRN-2 (OK)
2. SS-4-RB-2 (not needed since you are using the SS-4-HRN-2)
The elbow is missing. SS-2-SE Street Elbow, 1/8 in. Female NPT x 1/8 in. Male NPT
solenoid
3. SS-2-HN (OK)
1/8" FPT metering valve
4. SS-4-ME (not needede)
need another SS-2-HN
5. SS-2-HC-1-2 (not needed with JBJ BC)
6. SS-2-HC-7-2 (not needed with JBJ BC)

____________________________________

Here's the above so that you can read it better. ... Assuming that you have a 1/8" female NPT needle/metering valve.

regulator
SS-4-HRN-2 Hex Reducing Nipple, 1/4 in. Male NPT x 1/8 in. Male NPT
SS-2-SE Street Elbow, 1/8 in. Female NPT x 1/8 in. Male NPT
solenoid
SS-2-HN Hex Nipple, 1/8 in. Male NPT
1/8" Female NPT x 1/8" Female NPT needle /metering valve
SS-2-HN Hex Nipple, 1/8 in. Male NPT
JBJ BC

another way using the same style of needle/metering valve

regulator
SS-4-RB-2 Reducing Bushing, 1/4 in. Male NPT x 1/8 in. Female NPT
SS-2-ME Male Elbow, 1/8 in. Male NPT
solenoid
SS-2-HN Hex Nipple, 1/8 in. Male NPT
1/8" Female NPT x 1/8" Female NPT needle /metering valve
SS-2-HN Hex Nipple, 1/8 in. Male NPT
JBJ BC


eiginh;43606 said:
Anyways in order to do this set up (zip tieing)
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/private.php?do=showpm&pmid=853351
or jonny_ftm's set up...What steps do I skip?
Your link is to one of your PM's. I can't view it.

The JBJ BC attaches similar to what jonny_ftm is using. See SMOQ's post.

What are you wanting to zip-tie? The tubing?? Not needed with the JBJ BC.

eiginh;43606 said:
I hope this make sense...
It's fine. I hope that my info makes sense too.:)

Left C
 

eiginh

Prolific Poster
Sep 17, 2009
38
0
6
zip tieing the nv-55 needle valve, what is the fitting on that? 1/8 or 10/32?

Where can I get those items? I need to register to view the prices on swagelok and I don't even know how much they ship.
 

eiginh

Prolific Poster
Sep 17, 2009
38
0
6
The post is about hoppy using a zip tie for his NV-55 (not sure if you remembered that post but you pm'ed)

So if I use the NV-55 I will need steps 5 and 6 for the zip tie way?

I'm going off work now, i'll be on when I get home!
 

Left C

Lifetime Members
Sep 26, 2005
2,500
1
36
72
Burlington, NC
I remember Hoppy's DIY thread. He zip-tied his Fabco between the gauges on his regulator.

Oh. I didn't know that you are using the Fabco valve. I thought that you wanted all stainless steel parts. Since the valve and BC are brass, would you like a cheaper alternative? I don't know if you have the Fabco valve and JBJ BC yet or even the solenoid.

Get the Fabco upgrade: http://oregonaquadesign.vstore.ca/product_info.php/pName/after-regulator-assembly/cName/co2-co2-kits

If you don't get that kit, how are you going to mount the JBJ BC upright? The Fabco valve uses #10-32 threads and the JBJ BC has a 1/8" female NPT on the bottom.

We are going to have to change your parts list somewhat since you are using a different valve than I thought that you have.
 

eiginh

Prolific Poster
Sep 17, 2009
38
0
6
I'm thinking of going that route b/c it seems easier to find the metering valve. I looked on ebay for swagelok 1/8" metering valve but all I can find is 1/4". How much cheaper would it be rather than going s/s?
 

charlie

Guru Class Expert
Oct 25, 2006
101
0
16

dantra

Lifetime Charter Member
Lifetime Member
Jun 3, 2007
235
0
16
TX
charlie;43638 said:
Have you tried going to www.swagelok.com & buying directly from them,they have a valve B-2MA2 for around 60.00
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php?t=5641&highlight=swagelok+metering+valve

Hey SMOQ its good to finally see you at the Barr Report ;)

If you are going to spend $60.00 on a Swagelok Metering Valve then you may want to purchase the Ideal Metering Valve (52-1-12) instead for the same price, here is the link. That's the one that I use and it's always spot on. Call them directly, they are friendly and helpful.

I learned a lot from Left C especially when it came to regulators. If you are interested in more photos about putting a regulator together than perhaps this may help, from Rex's site

Hope this helps

Dan
 

eiginh

Prolific Poster
Sep 17, 2009
38
0
6
Yeah too bad I saw a 1/8" swagelok metering valve on ebay for 20 bucks! My plan is to go the best route and cheap while at it too.

If I do go with the 1/4" do I just need to get the lists stated by Left C but instead of 1/8" get 1/4" fittings?

I forgot to answer you, I don't have the needle valve nor the bubble counter yet. I do have a glass inline bubble counter.

Speaking of luck... I just found SS-2MG-MH-SS11 1/8" medium flow with vernier handle. Will that will work with the s/s fittings mentioned earlier?

$60 bucks is expensive! :( I read from the victor pimp thread over at tpt that if we get enough people to buy a metering valve, the company will reduce the price. I think it was ideal or swagelok... don't remember. Anyone need metering valves other than myself?
 

bradac56

Prolific Poster
Jan 31, 2008
43
0
6
53
Kansas City, MO
I've just setup the Swagelok SS-2MG-MH-SS11 on a Victor reg, you'll love it. And yes to your question pick up the same fittings that Left_C listed just in the correct size you need.

I've got the Ideal 52-1-12 on my older Victor reg and I can't tell the difference between that and the Swag so don't let people worry you about your decision.
Once you dial it in you can walk away and forget it until you need to fill the bottle.

- Brad