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Dual Stage Regulators

Discussion in 'CO2 Enrichment' started by Left C, Nov 17, 2009.

  1. Doc7

    Doc7 Member

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    OK so a short while after the above posts, I discovered the problems of squirting a lot of snoop into an electrically powered solenoid.

    [​IMG]


    I can just unscrew the nut and replace that black box with the same thing from another solenoid? i will keep lights off for a day and try to overnight one...
     
  2. maknwar

    maknwar Lifetime Members
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    As long as its the same part, it should be compatible.
     
  3. Doc7

    Doc7 Member

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    Hm I am having some trouble removing the solenoid from the brass valve body. I got it about 1/4" off. I don't want to force it if it's not supposed to come off but also don't want to disassemble my system until I'm sure I would need to. I have a call in to Burkert.

    http://burkert.com/products_data/datasheets/DS6011-Standard-EU-EN.pdf

    That shows some ridges on the post (where the spring / stem resides I guess) and i wonder if they are keeping my solenoid from coming off.




    No call back yet from Burkert - probably home for the day. Sales sheets online state that the coils are easily changeable without removal from service.




    I believe, based on what I heard back from them ("give it a strong jostle") that my original problem (coil melting) has somehow caused an interference preventing me from removing it. The issue is, there's now 15 PSI back pressure behind the brass piping so I'm a little hesitant to disassemble it in order to swap out when my new one gets here too...
     
    #2283 Doc7, Jan 4, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 4, 2012
  4. Left C

    Left C Lifetime Members
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  5. Doc7

    Doc7 Member

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    I did look at that thread but I am interested in removing the coil (which says "Burkert" on the white label on it) from the body of the valve itself.

    To use his picture below, I want to take this apart:

    [​IMG]

    I'm really giving it good pulls and twists but it's not coming.

    Over the phone, Burkert tech support told me they took one apart while I was speaking to them, and they just removed the retaining nut on top and "gave it a good jostle". Of course the one they had in their hands wasn't melty and I think maybe some of the plastic/rubber resolidified and is interfering with removal. I'm actually about 5 minutes from taking a hacksaw to the damn thing, It's already destroyed anyway, and if the new one comes apart as easy as they say it should, it should be a 2 minute reinstall of the new one tomorrow.
     
    #2285 Doc7, Jan 4, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 4, 2012
  6. S&KGray

    S&KGray Guru Class Expert

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    If the coil is trashed then use a large locking pliers and yank it off.
     
  7. Doc7

    Doc7 Member

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    In the words of Rex Grigg, I "got manly with it"... now my shoulder is going to be killing me in a couple of hours but I got the darn thing off!

    I don't really see what was making it lock up, though i am bit curious about the status of my valve if this was such a pain. when I get the new one tomorrow i will look to see if there is damage to the valve stem itself (maybe it expanded or something) that could create future issues. If the new coil slides on and off the other solenoid easily and I have great difficulty doing the same thing with the new coil on the old valve, I'll have to assume there's something wrong with the valve itself and get invasive re: the brass piping. : / I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. Here's what my valve stem looks like:

    [​IMG]

    I'm going to send the picture off to Burkert. I'm concerned about whether or not that groove (first from the bottom) is supposed to be there, or if that happened as I sat here twisting the solenoid around trying to get it off.
     
  8. Matt F.

    Matt F. Lifetime Charter Member
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    Something doesn't sound right. It shouldn't take much effort to get the electrical section of the solenoid off (once the nut is removed). Maybe the body is getting hooked on the threads? Maybe it was damaged somehow.
    Remove the nut completely. Pull/twist the black coil body off the brass portion of the solenoid.

    I honestly don't know why you have had such a hard time with your solenoid. Got to be frustrating.
     
    #2288 Matt F., Jan 5, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 5, 2012
  9. Doc7

    Doc7 Member

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    I did get it off after all that tugging. Visually I can not determine if the stem or the coil was the swollen part causing the interference.

    I just got the new one in the mail and it only took me 15 seconds to have the coil off, including the time to pull out my adjustable wrench. Tonight when I get home hopefully it slides right on the valve and I'm back in service!

    Sent from my BlackBerry 9650 using Tapatalk
     
  10. Doc7

    Doc7 Member

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    New coil slid on no issue and my tank is up and running again : )

    Glad I did that instead of taking apart all the piping etc when it wasn't necessary to get invasive

    Sent from my BlackBerry 9650 using Tapatalk
     
  11. Left C

    Left C Lifetime Members
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    Terrific news!
     
  12. Doc7

    Doc7 Member

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    Hopefully someone is able to use that method above instead of a whole-sale solenoid changeout if they experience electrical related difficulties.

    It's tempting just to buy a whole new assembly when all one needs is a coil.
     
  13. Left C

    Left C Lifetime Members
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    Have you found out about the groove?
     
  14. Doc7

    Doc7 Member

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    Yup another user says his stem looks precisely the same.

    As that's really a "stem cover" and not a stem anyway (the stem and spring are inside, moved via electromagnetic force by the solenoid coil), it wouldn't have matter even if it was an accidentally made groove, as long as its not damaged so that the new coil couldn't slip over it.



    Sent from my BlackBerry 9650 using Tapatalk
     
  15. Left C

    Left C Lifetime Members
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    Thanks a bunch!
     
  16. iani

    iani Junior Poster

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    Put together two regulators today for two different friends. Both all stainless bodies and parts.
    One is a Matheson 3810 and the other is a Concoa 432
    IMAG0620.jpg

    regulator-August252012.jpg
     
  17. SaltyNC

    SaltyNC Junior Poster

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    Is that a Peter Paul solenoid valve? How do you like them? Good looking builds.
     
  18. Tom Barr

    Tom Barr Founder
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    Well, several other forums seem to have vendors that got really touchy and competitive with this topic.
    We do not have vendor's paying the bills here, subscribers and folks willing to be supporting membership.

    There are no annoying ads if you noticed also.

    Weird thing is that I allow vendors to post all they want, but they do not, and it's for free etc.
     
  19. oldpunk

    oldpunk Guru Class Expert

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    #2299 oldpunk, Oct 16, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 16, 2012
  20. Matt F.

    Matt F. Lifetime Charter Member
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    Assuming that SGT has good threads and everything still works as it should, that's a good price. There is no real wear out to these things when used with non-corrosive or poison gas.
     
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