Do I need inline check valves ?

barbarossa4122

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Dec 29, 2009
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Hi,

I seem to have trouble with my inline check valves that are installed between the NVs and BCs. I tried cheap plastic ones and not so cheap brass ones and I am not happy with them. So, I took them out all together for now and everything works as it should. Do I need them and if yes, which ones are good/best/reliable ?
 
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barbarossa4122

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nipat;61255 said:
Why aren't you happy? BPS not constant?

Hi Nipat,

Exactly. Once I removed them BPS are constant. In fact, on one of the tanks I couldn't go more than 18 BPS this morning. Removed the CV and voila, it works. On 3 of the valves I can't even blow air through. Btw, I did install them the proper way , the direction of the flow arrow.
 

nipat

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May 23, 2009
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Whoa 18 BPS, not many people go there. Of course not me.
You may have to raise the working pressure to get there.
It may not be fault of check valves. 18 BPS may be the
highest flow from this working pressure with the resistance from check valves.
Not sure, wait for others who is more knowledgeable...:p

Anyway, doesn't your bubble counter already has check valve built-in?
 
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barbarossa4122

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nipat;61259 said:
Whoa 18 BPS, not many people go there. Of course not me.
You may have to raise the working pressure to get there.
It may not be fault of check valves. 18 BPS may be the
highest flow from this working pressure with the resistance from check valves.
Not sure, wait for others who is more knowledgeable...:p

Anyway, doesn't your bubble counter already has check valve built-in?

Lol, sorry Nipat, I meant 18 bubbles/10seconds. Yes, the BCs have check valves already.
 
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barbarossa4122

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The bubble counters are plastic with integrated CVs and they are doing fine. I wonder why the separate CVs I installed are so crappy ? Btw, I had the extra CVs as a precaution/back up.
 

barbarossa4122

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Hi Jim,

I am using these:
ista-bubble-counter-check-valve_sm.jpg


But, I am waiting to receive the new ones:
atomic-bubble-counter_sm.jpg


GLA products.
 
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rockhoe14er

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I think you should use a ck valve because i got some water in my Fabco NV-55 and that messed up my rate for a bit. it's better safe then sorry.
 

barbarossa4122

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rockhoe14er;61269 said:
I think you should use a ck valve because i got some water in my Fabco NV-55 and that messed up my rate for a bit. it's better safe then sorry.

I know but, I tried 2 cheap plastic ones and 2 brass ones and they don't work. I sure will like to know from where to buy reliable ones.
 

Jim Miller

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Thanks for the info. What's not working about them? I usually find when too many things aren't working it's my testing that is at fault.

Jim
 

barbarossa4122

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Jim Miller;61271 said:
Thanks for the info. What's not working about them? I usually find when too many things aren't working it's my testing that is at fault.

Jim

I have no clue. I can't easily blow air through them. I had them installed last night when the co2 was off and this morning no bubbles made it to bubble counters. Took them off and checked them by trying to blow air.
 

pat w

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Nov 4, 2009
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Those new BC's from GLA have integrated CV's so your needle valve and reg are safe.

You'll have limited success using the human anatomy to test CV's. We don't have the capacity to gererate enough pressure.

With the higher working pressures required by the new Atomic style diffusers I'd say you may be safe without an inline CV between your BC and the diffuser. You'd have to put the Diffuser at the bottom of a 24" deep tank just to approach 1 psi. (1 psi - 27.68 inches of water).

IMHO

Pat
 

barbarossa4122

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Hi Pat,

I was able to blow air through other plastic check valves with no problems. The ones that are causing trouble.....no air passes thorough. And, everything was just fine until I installed the new ones last night.
 
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pat w

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Anyway since both the BC's you listed have integrated CV's I'd be inclined to omit the inline CV's and trust the diffusers to resist the backflow in the absense of elevated pressure. You might try testing that just to prove it to yourself. If it's supossed to take >30 psi to drive gas through these things it'd be my guess that a fluid would take more. But then that's JUST A GUESS. I'll be able to make a pretty good test when I get my inline unit. Then I'll have the gas chamber around the diffuser element and I'll easily see if water passes through.

Pat
 

barbarossa4122

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Dec 29, 2009
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Hey Pat,

Yeah, I'll stick with the integrated CVs. I'll do the 30 or more psi test when I get my Victor 453 back from rebuilt.
 

Koen_v_V

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Feb 27, 2008
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I have had trouble finding reliable steady-bubblecount CV myself.

Currently I'm using Dennerle (as a dutchman) It has safety screws, downside that it's plastic. But after years they still or not failing, where other brands break or don't work at all. And breaking off is not what you NEVER want!

You surely cannot blow air trough it yourself, not enough pressure. But the working pressure of the regulator of 0.5 bar is more than enough.