DIY tank stand

Tom Barr

Staff member
Jan 23, 2005
Other than the sump, the general design would be good for a FW planted tank.

Heaters can go horizontal. You will need to maintain the evaporation water make up more in these type of sumps vs a standard wet/dry type sump. You plan RO and float switch, so that's a done deal.
Which can affect Skimmer performance etc. But as long as the levels are stable, no prob.

If you are near a drain or have any other remote plumbing coming in, a simple sump over flow near the top edge of the sump will send the water to the drain via gravity.
Good idea to add this on any system if you possibly can!!!!
then you can automate water change and make them as fast or slow or as frequent as you like(particularly for FW systems)

I opt to go with refugiums(large ones) and a sock filter, live rock, DBS and a return pump. Uses less energy, less messing with things, and less issue if the water evaporates some.
I can sell and trade the macro algae, I cannot sell skimmate. I do not have auto top off and drain for it, due to the place where I live, but the next place we move to, shall.

I would get a rotating return nozzle and add a wide flange to spread the flow out.

Light: Radion perhaps. I'm thinking of getting one and replace the ATI. LMK how the BuildmyLED works for you.


Plant Guru Team
Lifetime Member
Sep 23, 2007
South Florida
feh;128349 said:
Few new pics... still a little work to do with the wiring and the fuge drain. Also need to install the probes, but it's getting there. I've also decided to add a few more switches to the breakout box and a ALD module with sensors around the outside of the stand and inside the cabinet. Might need another breakout box. The overflow box is plumbed for bean animal with 3 drains. Full siphon is to the sock, 2nd is to the fuge, and the emergency dumps behind the skimmer.




Can you tell me where you found all the nice grey pvc? Does it come in 1"? I would love to redo my mix of sched 40 and brass from the cpr overflow to the sump like your is from your overflow.

The tank is beautiful btw. Lovely combination of tank and stand.


Lifetime Members
Lifetime Member
Jan 10, 2010
Boca Raton, FL
Gerry, don't mean to nose in, but from my experience the grey PVC is schedule 80 and the white is Schedule 20 or 40.

There is also Schedule 40 electrical conduit but it doesn't have the polished look.

Lowes on Powerline and 441 has a lot of 1" Sch 80 fittings and you can order the pipe here:

Schedule 80 looks better but it is significantly thicker and you will lose flow. You can by Krylon or Rustoleum spray paint and paint your existing Schedule 40 black, grey or whatever.

ua hua

Guru Class Expert
Aug 6, 2011
That is a really nice setup and you can tell you put a lot of thought into the details of the system. Is the the Synergy Reef Systems sump a custom made one? I always have thoughts about going back to the reef side of the hobby but at this point in my life I don't have the time or energy to put into another reef system. I will live vicariously through others such as yourself for the time being.


Guru Class Expert
Jan 14, 2011
South Carolina
So after moving 5hrs back to my home town due to unforeseen job related nonsense. "So uh, we're gonna lay you all off and close this office and send the jobs overseas. Oh and can you fly over there and train them for us too?" Anyway... as I said nonsense. I've found a much better job and company in Charlotte. Anyway, back on track... so after several delays here's where I'm at. I ordered "The package" from TBS. Man, Richard doesn't mess around. I'm very pleased with my order.



Guru Class Expert
Jan 14, 2011
South Carolina
Tom Barr;128519 said:
Light: Radion perhaps. I'm thinking of getting one and replace the ATI. LMK how the BuildmyLED works for you.

I'll be getting some data on the BML fixture soon. I should be able to produce some PAR data along with growth data. The only drawback to their fuge lights I've seen so far is dimming is done on a single channel so the red/white LEDs can't be dimmed individually. I picked up an Apogee PAR meter a couple weeks ago, but I haven't had much time to play around with it yet.