DIY CO2 and Animals

Biollante

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"Reply With Quote"

Hi C. Smith, Left C, All,

No sweat.

One of the problems with this medium is that the words are all we have to go by, along with the context of the thread, whatever we remember (or do not remember) from other threads. It helps to state specifics.

A ‘Reply With Quote’ on Left C’s post would have clarified the question.

I was not (am not) offended, more confused I guess. “If you have to have absolute agreement on everything, you are not going to accomplish much.” Is an “if the shoe fits” kind of statement, is something I say in general, there is a larger audience.

There are endless variations many times folks are ‘hung-up’ on a method; they take variations on a theme as something contradictory.

Personally, I use sets of two two-liter soda bottles for my do-it-yourself CO2 systems. I have seen incredibly complex do-it-yourself CO2 systems. :)

I also have one of the most sophisticated pressurized CO2 systems for aquatic (including liquid-cell technology), hydroponic, greenhouse and well, beverage available. :D

Yet I have a few tanks I use breath others, water changes to maintain elevated levels of CO2. Trust me when I tell you the idea that you can maintain ‘larger’ planted tanks on do-it-yourself CO2, especially the breath or the water changes, have had people go apoplectic over the idea.

Yet I always recommend the best-pressurized system a person can afford, in fact I recommend skimping on or doing without other stuff in favor of the Rex Griggs, Sumo or the systems Left C can help folks figure. However, if for any reason, including just the challenge of do-it-yourself CO2, there are options.

Likewise, I am not sure why, but EI is the sort of thing that drives people right over the edge. I have no idea why. I like replicable systems, systems that are not idiosyncratic.

If the shoe does not fit, do not worry. :)

For if the glove, er, ah, shoe does not fit, you must acquit. :cool:

Biollante
 

nipat

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May 23, 2009
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csmith;46339 said:
...
My first assumption was the single bottle configuration was an "older" method, and the two bottle design was an upgrade to, perhaps, correct issues on the former's flaws. This is why I asked the question of if yeast being sucked into the tank was a real concern. I still don't quite understand how that can happen with the hose inches above the water...

If your single bottle system falls and you're not around. Yeast will enter your tank.

The little bottle with liquid (water or water mixed with potassium permanganate)
is used as bubble counter (but I still question the use of potassium permanganate
since it should not enter the tank as well in case the bottle falls, so why use it?)

The safest (I think) is a system with that little bottle empty, just air in it.
This will prevent the yeast from entering your tank better. But the best of all is
to make sure that it won't fall. :)
 
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shoggoth43

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Do you have the dimensions on you 150? I got one of those fluval edge tanks which looks really nice but the filter is loud as heck or reasonably quiet and shifts between the two without warning....

The yeast/CO2 muck can be an issue if you overfill the bottle. It foams up a nasty foam when the yeast first gets going sometimes and that can be enough to reach the airline tubing. If the bottle falls over your tank is in for a world of hurt. However, as with compressed CO2, secure your bottles and you won't have a problem.

-
S


csmith;46302 said:
Left C,
I hooked up my Liberty 150 this morning. Wow, is that thing quiet. It's quieter while breaking in than my last was after months of use. Thanks for the recommendation.

Everyone,
I'm in the process of setting up my DIY Co2 and I came across a thread on APC. This guy is showing how to build it, and adds a bubble counter/"seperator". It's apparently not just to count bubbles, but to "keep the Yeast Muck from being released into your tank". Is this a real concern? I'm under the impression the tubing doesn't actually go into the yeast/sugar/water, but sits above it, and if that's the case I don't see how any of the water ends up in your tank. Am I mistaken, or is this article off?
 

Biollante

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Overkill

nipat;46354 said:
If your single bottle system falls and you're not around. Yeast will enter your tank.

The little bottle with liquid (water or water mixed with potassium permanganate)
is used as bubble counter (but I still question the use of potassium permanganate
since it should not enter the tank as well in case the bottle falls, so why use it?)

The safest (I think) is a system with that little bottle empty, just air in it.
This will prevent the yeast from entering your tank better. But the best of all is
to make sure that it won't fall. :)

Hi All,

The 'bubble counter' as Nipat points out is for keeping gook out of the tank and from fouling an airstone or diffuser.

I am with Nipat, it is overkill, to kill any yeastie beasties that get away. I think the potassium permanganate presents more of a hazard than a help.

I use a 'bubble counter' most of the time, just distilled water, as shoggoth43 points out if you do not overfill the bio-reactor there want be much of a problem, though over time if you are using a diffuser or air stone (need to be glass) a certain amount of 'stuff' will end up in the tank. :cool:

The 'stuff' really won't hurt any thing. Some folk have been known to toss yeast into the tank, some bloom the yeast first, as a fish food, a touch messy for a display tank I think, and who needs a tank with a yeast infection anyway. :)

Biollante
 
C

csmith

Guest
Just measured it, it's 5 3/4 across x 4 1/2 front to back x 7 high. I believe it's rated at 150 gph. It definately does it's job, maybe even a bit too well. 10 minutes after I fed my frogs all of the bloodworms left on the substrate were stuck to the pre-filter. Awesome product. Check out EBay before you go with one of the online stores, I picked it up for $17 including shipping.

shoggoth43;46373 said:
Do you have the dimensions on you 150? I got one of those fluval edge tanks which looks really nice but the filter is loud as heck or reasonably quiet and shifts between the two without warning....

Thank you all for the added information. I set mine up and had bubbles in 15 minutes. The plants seem to be responding better than I was expecting them to. I'm getting about 1 bps from the end of the hose, but I'm thinking that on a 10 gallon that's not as detrimental as, say, on a 55 gallon.

Simple input. The water pump catches the bubbles as they rise and spews tiny bubbles all around.
DIYCo22.jpg


Bad picture of bubbles circulating.
DIYCo24.jpg


This leaf in the middle of the ozelot sword was kind of folded up on itself when I last looked at it. I haven't seen a leaf that red on it since I bought these swords.
DIYCo2.jpg


I'll be bumping up ferts a little bit to see if I can get all of the leaves looking that good. Again, thanks all for the help.
 
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C

csmith

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Mysterious White..Stuff

Every Saturday when I do my water change I have to wipe down the tubing the Co2 travels through. The section that is in the water is covered in a white film of sorts. At the end where the bubbles come from this white blob is flowing in the water. It has the characteristics (the way it moves in the water) of BBA..but it's white. As the week progresses it goes from a tiny dot on Sunday to a huge flowing mass of..stuff. It's weird to see the Co2 bubbles squeeze out from "inside" of this mass. When I do wipe it off the rag is left a orange/red color. Anyone have a clue what this is?
 

Left C

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Left C said:
... Anyway, there are two tubes going into the top. The intake goes into the water in the BC/separator. The output is shorter and doesn't go in the water.
csmith;46339 said:
... My confusion was from Left C's last 3 sentences in his post. At the time I didn't understand what he meant (with the multiple tubes), nor how exactly the second bottle played any role of importance. ...
For some reason, I forgot to post what I meant. Here's some pictures. But, they don't show where the water level is in the separator bottle if you want to use it for a bubble counter. If you don't want to use it for a bubble counter, you can leave the water out. I always add water anyway because it leaves a smaller air volume.

one bottle w/separator bottle
separator.jpg



two bottles w/separator bottle
bigdiyco255.jpg
 
C

csmith

Guest
Thanks for the clarification. I've contemplated building a 2-reactor system, but I'm afraid it may be a bit too much for my 10 gallon. Then again, this Liberty is moving the surface better than I ever expected it to before I hooked it up, so it could very well be de-gassing my water quicker than I think. I get tons of pearling the first few days after setting up a new bottle, but the level tapers off quickly. After a week it still holds steady at around 1 bubble per 2-3 seconds, though. I'll watch it to see what happens as I up my dosing this week and see if it's necessary.
 
C

csmith

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It's turned almost all the way down.

Edit: To clarify, it's only 1/4 on is what I mean. Any further down and it gets a slight hum. It's not obnoxious, just too much to sleep with.
 
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Left C

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Tug

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Hi csmith
Once "yeast snot" is established in an air line the stuff is very difficult to remove. There might be other ways of cleaning it out, but consider replacing the fouled hosing from the reactor when it gets like this.
csmith;46932 said:
Every Saturday when I do my water change I have to wipe down the tubing the Co2 travels through. The section that is in the water is covered in a white film of sorts. At the end where the bubbles come from this white blob is flowing in the water.
Whether you get a gas separator or learn not to overfill the reactor, any line leading to the tank water should stay slim free. It will snot block the line. If you use a previously fouled line the slime will come back.
 
C

csmith

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Tug;46964 said:
Hi csmith
Once "yeast snot" is established in an air line the stuff is very difficult to remove. There might be other ways of cleaning it out, but consider replacing the fouled hosing from the reactor when it gets like this.Whether you get a gas separator or learn not to overfill the reactor, any line leading to the tank water should stay slim free. It will snot block the line. If you use a previously fouled line the slime will come back.

Ah, so it's forming inside the hose, not just at the end?
I guess I'll need to use a seperator, though I'm not sure how this stuff got into my tubing. My water level is probably 3 inches below the top of my bottle and the hose only comes out of the lid enough to be "in" the bottle. I don't even get the foam in my bottle. Ah well, I'll get some new tubing and see what I can do. Thanks for the heads up.
 

Left C

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I've found that when I used a separator bottle with water in it, it made a huge difference in the amount of yeast snot that would build up. Most of the snot would get dissolved in the water and not passed on. Some would get by, but not very much.

I highly recommend a water filled separator bottle for defense against yeast snot.

But ... The very best defense against yeast snot is buildup to use pressurized CO2. It's snotless!