Diatoms and Cyanobacteria(BGA)

[jeremy v]

I was wondering if anyone has found any link between diatom issues (and minor reoccurring issues with cyanobacteria, but only in a few specific places that receive higher flow) in established tanks and the fish food that you use. If so, what were you using and what did you change to in order to eliminate the problem. I use freeze dried brine shrimp, bloodworms, and mysis shrimp right now, and I am wondering if they are contributing to or causing my problem.

Are these foods possibly contributing a large amount of silica to the tank causing the diatoms to thrive?

The thing that seems to be interesting to me about the cyano as well is that it never spreads, but it seems to be pretty much impossible to eliminate the three small spots that I do have of it (if I vacuum it or scrape it off it just keeps coming back).

I am wondering if it is the food, because that's the only thing I haven't changed so far in my attempt to eliminate the diatoms from growing on the plants, driftwood, and glass. All my tank parameters do change as I attempt to eliminate this problem, but after small changes everything does remain very stable. All of my fish are very healthy, occasionally breeding, and active. If they get injured and tear a tail or lose a few scales, they completely heal within a week or two, so my water quality seems to be fine. Any help would be appreciated, thanks. -Jeremy

 

[jeremy v]

I just wanted to add that I do realize that all the fertilization and water changes I am doing are not necessary at all when not injecting CO2. I am only doing it to be able to factor nutrient deficiencies out of the equation in my tanks, and because all my fish seem happier, much more colorful, and healthier when I dose inorganic nutrients versus not doing it. Especially my betta, all of his fins even grew about 1/2" longer after beginning to dose nutrients in the tank a little over a year ago. None of the fertilizers are wasted either, becuae all the water I change out I use to water houseplants and the yard plants, and they are doing great with it too. Most of my background is with fish-only tanks, so I still have a lot to learn related to plants and algae using higher light levels. In case it helps, I did try DIY CO2 for 2-3 months about a year ago, with two alternating 2 liter bottles for consistent output where each one was changed after about 9 days or so. I still ran into the same problem where everything in the tank (plants and algae) just grew faster, but other than that nothing changed. That's why I am trying to figure this out without injecting CO2 for now, because that is one variable I can factor out in as far as causing the problem due to instability, etc. That is only an assumption though, and it might be a bad one. -Jeremy