Hi guys,
A few months ago I planted a tank and covered it using the dry start method. Then abandoned it for like 6 months. After weeding out some emersed weeds, I flooded the tank.
The plants are hairgrass, covering about 40% of the substrate currently and several stems of what I think is some type of rotala.
The hairgrass is very dense in some areas and very scarce in others.
I’m on week 2 and I have patches of Cyanobacteria growing in the substrate, this Cyanobacteria was introduced when I used tap water (my tap water has it apparently). I have since switched to filtered drinking water that I buy in 5 gallon returnable bottles, and the algae was receding but now it’s staying. There’s some diatoms as well but I find they always disappear on their own.
I’ve heard I should either reduce phosphates or increase nitrates... problem is my ferts are combined NPK, I can’t choose how much of each one I dose. Should I just dose more NPK and hope for the best?
Here are some measurements and specs of the tank:
Substrate: fluval plant and shrimp stratum
Aquarium: Mr. Aqua 12 gallon long (36”x9”x8”) it’s not the real deal, I had one made to the same measurements cause I can’t import the real deal
Filter: Aquaclear 20 on the right corner and Hagen Elite Mini filter on the left corner, acting as a nano powerhead. I have active carbon on the aquaclear because it was a new tank. I don’t know how much it affects the chelated minerals in the micros.
Fish: 6 newly introduced cardinal tetras (2 days in tank)
Light: Finnex 24/7 Planded Plus SE
CO2: pressurized tank, with diffuser
Nutrients:
Light: hard to define the photoperiod because the light fades in and out, but I will say 7-8 hours of effective photoperiod, and 3 hours of ambient light (the lights are at minimum brightness during these 3 hours)
CO2: 30ppm.
Other carbon: 1ml to 1.5ml of flourish excel daily. Helped eradicate some string algae.
Macros: a friend gave me a mix of what I think is GLA macros for EI method. It’s NPK mixed together. I dissolved this into a bottle with drinking water.
Micros: GLA CSM+. I dissolved these into a bottle with drinking water.
Dosing regime: EI method. Monday macros, Tuesday micros, Wednesday macros and so on. 50% change on Sunday.
Water parameters:
Before introducing the fish last Monday, I measured my water parameters. It was 24hrs after a water change and I dosed macros that day. This is measured with API liquid test kits.
pH: 6.0
Ammonia: <0.25ppm
Nitrites: 0ppm
Nitrates: <5ppm, I estimate 2.5ppm
KH: 2dKH
GH: 1dKH
As you can see, it’s very soft water, but it’s not RO/DI. I am a bit worried about the fact the ammonia was not 0ppm and that the nitrates were so low for a planted tank. Any comments?
Let me know what improvements I could make to try to get rid of this nasty bacteria. Hopefully it won’t come back.
A few months ago I planted a tank and covered it using the dry start method. Then abandoned it for like 6 months. After weeding out some emersed weeds, I flooded the tank.
The plants are hairgrass, covering about 40% of the substrate currently and several stems of what I think is some type of rotala.
The hairgrass is very dense in some areas and very scarce in others.
I’m on week 2 and I have patches of Cyanobacteria growing in the substrate, this Cyanobacteria was introduced when I used tap water (my tap water has it apparently). I have since switched to filtered drinking water that I buy in 5 gallon returnable bottles, and the algae was receding but now it’s staying. There’s some diatoms as well but I find they always disappear on their own.
I’ve heard I should either reduce phosphates or increase nitrates... problem is my ferts are combined NPK, I can’t choose how much of each one I dose. Should I just dose more NPK and hope for the best?
Here are some measurements and specs of the tank:
Substrate: fluval plant and shrimp stratum
Aquarium: Mr. Aqua 12 gallon long (36”x9”x8”) it’s not the real deal, I had one made to the same measurements cause I can’t import the real deal
Filter: Aquaclear 20 on the right corner and Hagen Elite Mini filter on the left corner, acting as a nano powerhead. I have active carbon on the aquaclear because it was a new tank. I don’t know how much it affects the chelated minerals in the micros.
Fish: 6 newly introduced cardinal tetras (2 days in tank)
Light: Finnex 24/7 Planded Plus SE
CO2: pressurized tank, with diffuser
Nutrients:
Light: hard to define the photoperiod because the light fades in and out, but I will say 7-8 hours of effective photoperiod, and 3 hours of ambient light (the lights are at minimum brightness during these 3 hours)
CO2: 30ppm.
Other carbon: 1ml to 1.5ml of flourish excel daily. Helped eradicate some string algae.
Macros: a friend gave me a mix of what I think is GLA macros for EI method. It’s NPK mixed together. I dissolved this into a bottle with drinking water.
Micros: GLA CSM+. I dissolved these into a bottle with drinking water.
Dosing regime: EI method. Monday macros, Tuesday micros, Wednesday macros and so on. 50% change on Sunday.
Water parameters:
Before introducing the fish last Monday, I measured my water parameters. It was 24hrs after a water change and I dosed macros that day. This is measured with API liquid test kits.
pH: 6.0
Ammonia: <0.25ppm
Nitrites: 0ppm
Nitrates: <5ppm, I estimate 2.5ppm
KH: 2dKH
GH: 1dKH
As you can see, it’s very soft water, but it’s not RO/DI. I am a bit worried about the fact the ammonia was not 0ppm and that the nitrates were so low for a planted tank. Any comments?
Let me know what improvements I could make to try to get rid of this nasty bacteria. Hopefully it won’t come back.