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CRS, EI, and 50% Water Changes weekly

Discussion in 'Inverts' started by Ryc120, May 22, 2012.

  1. Ryc120

    Ryc120 Junior Poster

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    Hello all,

    Has anyone had success with keeping/breeding CRS, dosing EI, and doing 50% weekly water changes? A lot of what I read around the Internet says to do small water changes with CRS.
     
  2. Tom Barr

    Tom Barr Founder
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    They tend to molt often this way(water changes).

    I tend to reduce the light and the plants used tend to be easier, slower growing and then I can use less CO2 and cooler temps= more O2 and good filtration etc. Then I dose less and do water changes maybe once every 2-4 weeks.
     
  3. Ryc120

    Ryc120 Junior Poster

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    What would you recommend for a dosing schedule on my tank with only CRS and plants in it?

    Here is what I have now -
    29g planted tank
    Single 24" t5ho fixture. (medium-low light)
    Pressurized CO2
    I was using this http://calc.petalphile.com/non-mobile calculator for dosing.
    I dose with the Seachem line.
     
  4. Hallen

    Hallen Guru Class Expert

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    I've run full EI with CRS without any problems, I also have some bee shrimp caught in the wild by Chris Lukhaup and even those do fine and breed.

    On a side note tho, the shrimp in my tank are the woman of my tank; they clean and look pretty. Since my main focus is the plants I dose EI. If I where to setup a breeder tank my focus would be on breeding and not on the plants so I wouldent use the full EI. Just like Tom says, CRS and most other shrimp tend to favor a little less Co2.
     
  5. Ryc120

    Ryc120 Junior Poster

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    My plants are all fully grown so the focus will be on the shrimp. Lets call it a new adventure :)
    Unfortunately I am unable to raise the light fixture, and keep an open top due to the presence of cats in the house. So I reduced the light intensity to low light by placing a layer of window screen between the light and glass top. I'll be dosing much less, and using less CO2. My goal is to get the current colony of CRS up to 100+. They look happy and healthy so far.
     
  6. larcat

    larcat Junior Poster

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    Sorry for the necro.

    This describes what I will be trying to do in a new tank:

    Low-Med light, no/low dosing, low Co2 24/7.

    Logic on low Co2 24/7 is more stable parameters for shrimp, shouldn't be pumping enough to endanger them at night.

    12 Long with a 36" marineland doublebright. Supposed to be 54 par @ 12 inches 26 @ 24 inches. I'll be hanging it about 15-16 or so above the substrate.

    Rich substrate of Azoo capping vermicompost.

    Parva/Fissidens Fontanus the only plants.

    Any suggestions on how little Co2 I can get away with, and any suggestions on dosing (necessity of any?)

    Will be keeping some fancy shrimps (OEBTs)

     
    #6 larcat, Jul 24, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 25, 2012
  7. Tom Barr

    Tom Barr Founder
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    I do not think you can claim the argument that it's more stable adding CO2 24/7 to any livestock.

    Adding CO2 except.........when it is needed/required reduces and inhibits respiration.
    There are no good reason as far livestock......to add CO2 24/7.

    We ONLY add CO2 for one purpose: to help grow plants.
    Plant ONLY use CO2 during the light cycle.

    A stress is added 24/7 compared to say 6-8 hours a day or about 1/4 to 1/3 rd of the 24 hour day, this gives the shrimp a break and allows you to watch and see behavioral and eat/feeding differences.
    Also, while the CO2 is on, the plants also at the same time release more O2, offsetting the CO2 addition/enrichment.
    At night, there is no extra O2 being added from the plants.

    If the question is how little CO2 you can get away with, the answer is simple: you do not need to add any extra CO2.
    You use a non CO2 approach which provides the longest term stability.
     
  8. larcat

    larcat Junior Poster

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    After discussion with the breeder whom I will probably buy my shrimp from, and some more head-searching, I think I have decided to ditch it entirely.

    I'm a bit worried about the Parva forest, but we shall see.

    I DO know my shrimp were happier when I stopped running it in my current shrimp tank.

    Any advice on how far from the substrate I should keep that light (quoted for reference "54 par @ 12 inches 26 @ 24 inches")/suggested photo period given Fissiden Fontanus/C. Parva only, Azoo plant bed with vermicompost underneath?

    Thanks for taking the time,

    -Larcat

     
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