Confused about CO2/EI

[nipat]

I'm cheap
If I want to have 2 CO2 sources in one tank, I would opt for this TheKillhaa's DIY.
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7206-Diy-co2-splitter

[video=youtube;5RxQgj09bMc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5RxQgj09bMc&feature=player_embedded[/video]

Because I can monitor the total bubble rate from the main
bubble counter connected to a needle valve and won't worry
about gassing fish.

For two tanks or more, however, I would opt for a proper splitter
with separate needle valves. Those roller clamps don't
seem very reliable.

PS: It may be too fragile for those "30 PSI" diffusers.

 

[pat w]

So i have bought this CO2 regulator (2nd hand in the local fish store). This is surely 1-stage only.

The advantage of this one is that (a) has a led and (b) it has a solenoid built into it (and i have warranty).

So all i need right now (if i am correct) is:
a) attach a 90 degrees elbow instead of the current co2 nipple (silver dome in the middle, between the blue led and the power adapter)

b) attach the splitter like this:

And i should be done for controlling 1 tank, on 2 places with CO2 right?


So for the bubble counter, you suggest using mineral oil. Is that thesame stuff as liquid petroleum or baby oil without added chemicals?

I don't see a guage anywhere. Must have, otherwise you have no way to know when your pressurized tank needs refilling. With a single stage you'll need to refill before you reach completely empty to avoid end-of-tank-dump issues. You'll need one that shows the tank pressure and one that shows working pressure. I don't see a way around this.

Mineral oil -- works fine, just keep it out of the tank and the reg.

Pat

 

[Left C]

2 of these 3 two stage regulators are still for sale. I like the red knob models, but the 312 Concoa is a very fine regulator too.
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/6470-Dual-Stage-Regulators?p=59630#post59630

The red knob models are similar too Victor's HPT500 high purity regulator with stainless steel diaphragms. The BHT500's are nickle plated instead of chrome plated.
http://www.dmltrading.com.sg/documentation/HPT500.pdf

The Concoa 312 series bodies are made from chrome plated brass bar stock and they have stainless steel diaphragms. These are high purity regulators too. The have a hose connection on the output that may be useful. If not, you can remove it.
http://www.concoa.com/docs/catalogs...0 Series/ADC 3010 AC 312 Series Regulator.pdf

 

[Gilles]

K, thanx.

The connection in europe is 2.2cm, i don't know if the Red Knob Victor BHT 500s supports this type of connection.

Regards,
Gilles

 

[Left C]

K, thanx.

The connection in europe is 2.2cm, i don't know if the Red Knob Victor BHT 500s supports this type of connection.

Regards,
Gilles

Those red knob Victor's and the 312 need the stock gas fitting changed anyway. They aren't set up for CO2.

 

[Gilles]

Lol, i just found out that all i have to do is replace the nut

Want to use your U.S. Regulator on a European bottle?...Simply unscrew the stem and replace the nut. A regulator nut to fit the European thread can be obtained from www.weldability.com part no:- DACO2NUT

source: http://www.teamonslaught.fsnet.co.uk/co2_info.htm

Last question:
Can i place my needle valves inline, AFTER the bubble counters?

 

[Left C]

Lol, i just found out that all i have to do is replace the nut

source: http://www.teamonslaught.fsnet.co.uk/co2_info.htm

That's easy enough!

Last question:
Can i place my needle valves inline, AFTER the bubble counters?

Good question. I don't remember reading about anyone doing it.

It may work, I'm guessing. I suggest that you use good check valves between the BC's and the NV's to keep the BC liquid out.

Good luck, Gilles!

 

[pat w]

I'd personally advise against placing the needle valve after the bubble counter. A check valve doesn't know the difference between CO2, water, mineral oil, or glycerin. Droplets could easily migrate through an open check valve into the needle valve and potentially foul or clog it.

Just one man's opinion.

Pat

 

[Left C]

I agree with Pat. It may work, but I wouldn't want to do it.

You take care of your needle valves and they will take care of you. (I just made that up. )

 

[Gilles]

Good one

 

[Gilles]

So i found the burkert solenoids;
http://nl.rs-online.com/web/search/...hProducts&searchTerm=burkert+6011+230&x=0&y=0

I think i need the one with G1/8 connection, right?
Burkert part no of that one seems to be 134094

So this gives me this list:
From the regulator, we start with:
- 90 degrees elbow (Male BSPT - female BSPP elbow,R1/8xG1/8)
- Solenoid (Burkert 6011, 2/2 way solenoid valve,1/8in port 230Vac)
- Skrew (Male BSPP nipple adaptor,G1/8xG1/8)
- JBJ Manifold
- 2 x Skrew (Male BSPP nipple adaptor,G1/8xG1/8)

Then, i need to find a way to add the needle valves, so i was thinking of this:
2x Female BSPP tee connector,G1/8
2x (needle valve which can be screwed in, any advice?)
2x CC02 Screw-in Check Choke Valve G1/8 (is there a cheaper solution?)

Then add the JBJ bubble counters and tubing

So basically i need your double check to see if this is going to work and an advice on all parts

Regards,
Gilles

 

[Left C]

EDIT: DELETED This idea wouldn't work. Buna-N solenoids aren't available in 230V versions, but they can build you one. They have a "special order" program. The 120/60 brass model is 463938 and the stainless steel model is 463939.

Does the 230/50 Viton seal 6011 solenoid that you picked out have the same specs other than the voltage/amperage like the part number 456786? The 456786 is the model that we use with Viton seals. The Buna-N model also has these same specs other than the seal material
page 4: http://us.burkert.com/products_data/datasheets/DS6011-Standard-US-EN.pdf
http://www.iprocessmart.com/Merchan...roduct_Code=BU456786X&Category_Code=4024T6011

Orifice - 2.0
Port Connections - NPT 1/8"
Cv - 0.12
Pressure Range - 0-116 PSI
Voltage - 120/60
Item No. Brass - 456786
Stainless Steel - 457157

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

I don't understand why you are using a "T"?

_______________________________________________________________________

The Ideal V52-1-12 or 52-1-12 are excellent brass needle valves. http://www.idealvalve.com/52-series-forged-brass-needle-valves.html

Low pressure low flow Swagelok metering valves may work. Some people like the low pressure medium flow metering valves. http://swagelok.com/products/valves/metering-valves.aspx

Parker makes good metering valves too.

 

[Gilles]

I found this solenoid on the site you gave, is this site legit?