Clear dead areas on hygro polysperma leaves

[tomotomotomo]

Hi,
I've noticed some leaves on my hygro have clear dead areas- it's as though there is no chlorophyll in some places on newer leaves.
Any ideas why this is?
Thanks

 

[jonny_ftm]

Despite what it is claimed, H. Polysperma is quiet a demanding plant in my opinion. It never thrived in my tank unless many modifications: intense light, full EI, CO2, soft acidic water. Now what of all this enhanced its growth and appearance, I can't say.

I had before your same problem. I removed it all. Once the tank got good conditions, It came back again from some probably left underground roots and it is really beautiful

 

[Philosophos]

I'm seeing small amounts of multiple deficiencies there. White deposits, yellowing (may just be the photo or light source) a little twisting, holes. What're you dosing? Any CO2? If you're running EI, I'd almost want to say that something is getting ODed. Does it show on any other plants?

-Philosophos

 

[tomotomotomo]

Thanks for the reply. The white spots on the photo are bubbles- the plant pearls really nicely. The yellowing is probably just the photo, but the leaves do look a little curled.
I've let the water change slip this week- 4 days or so, so overdose could be possible, however I did notice the glassy leaves before the water change was due. It only appears on 2 or 3 leaves, and the other plants are looking great.

In total each week I dose 20ppm nitrate, 30ppm potassium, 10ppm magnesium using EI with a water change at weeks end. Drop Checker is light green using 4dkh.
Tap water has 1.6-2ppm phosphate according to the water supplier so I decided not to dose that.
I did think, with a 50% water change each week that gives 0.8ppm phosphates- is that enough?

 

[tomotomotomo]

Thanks for the reply. The white spots on the photo are bubbles- the plant pearls really nicely. The yellowing is probably just the photo, but the leaves do look a little curled.
I've let the water change slip this week- 4 days or so, so overdose could be possible, however I did notice the glassy leaves before the water change was due. It only appears on 2 or 3 leaves, and the other plants are looking great.

In total each week I dose 20ppm nitrate, 30ppm potassium, 10ppm magnesium using EI with a water change at weeks end. Drop Checker is light green using 4dkh.
Tap water has 1.6-2ppm phosphate according to the water supplier so I decided not to dose that.
I did think, with a 50% water change each week that gives 0.8ppm phosphates- is that enough?

 

[rich815]

I'd dose some phosphate anyway, a bit more nitrate and I think you do not need so much potassium....and of course make absolutely sure you CO2 is being dispersed around very well. Maybe crank the CO2 up slightly until the drop checker is yellow-green (as long as your fish seem fine).

 

[VaughnH]

If you were to change water twice a week, and if there really is that much phosphate in the tap water, you might have all the plants need. But, weekly changes are not, in my opinion, enough to maintain the amount of phosphate the plants must have to grow well. In any case, if you pretend there is no phosphate in the tap water, and dose accordingly, you will be doing no harm, so why not do that?

 

[Philosophos]

30ppm K+? That ends up being 60ppm max, more if you've been dosing without WC. I'm not sure what level potassium toxicity occurs at, but it might be worth looking at.

Definitely dose the phosphates; I dose 2.5ppm in to RO with no ill effects. I could probably push it higher, but testing has never shown it deficient.

-Philosophos

 

[tomotomotomo]

Thanks guys. After a water change tonight I'll start dosing phosphates and see how it goes. Appreciated

 

[Jose-Miguel]

Usually to get the red/pink color in the leaves, I need a high P level (2 ppm min) and Fe in the column water.
Light and CO2 are entry ticket.