Check Valve Which Ones To Use?

Ok so I am building a GLA supreme regulator and having some problems deciding on check valves.

http://greenleafaquariums.com/co2-regulators/supreme-co2-regulator.html

I have a smith medium duty regulator body, clippard solenoid, jbj bubble counter and check valve, and an Ideal needle valve.

The problem i have is finding a check valve to go between the needle valve and jbj bubble counter since they are not to be trusted. I believe both are 1/8" npt but the check valves I find are 10/32 npt and the reducer fittings are costly so can i use these?

http://store.fabco-air.com/proddetail.php?prod=CV

Any help on locating these fittings would be great, also I did find the 1/8 x 10/32 reducers and mini check valves from clippard but they are around 40.00 with shipping and handling charges.

Thanks
Eric

 

Left C thank you for the input, I need to add that check valve in between the needle valve and bubble counter, I did not buy a Gla this time although Orlando is a great guy I wanted to DIY this one just for the exsperience, I was just listing the components I bought recently and that check valve is all I'm missing ,

I am trying to avoid clippard, the shipping and handling fee is like $20 before you buy anything, for the check valve and two fittings it's $40.00 and that's more than I want to spend if I have a choice but not out of the question.

 

As far as inline valves go I don't mind cheap but I want my regulator and bubble counter threaded together as one unit so I need these to make that happen but what you say is true, I'm more worried about the jbj failing and the bubble counter fluid making it into my regulator, very little chance tank water would get back that far with the inline check valves.

I ordered the swagelok check valves you suggested of ebay, now I have one last issue The outlet from the smith regulator is 5/8" I cannot find any series of fitting to reduce it down to 1/8, If I removed the fitting from the regulator looks like the actual holes is 1/2" but how do you get that fitting out of the regulator without breaking it?

Thanks for the help guys, I really appreciate it

 

Makes sense

Hey how long do you normally have to wait to hear from Rex just curious

 

I guess i won't wait then just forget about it till it happens

 

I'm building this for a calcium reactor so I doubt I'll have any problems with it and I'm in no hurry although i may be interested in one of those swagelok valves.

Shoot me a pm with price and i'll let you know.

Thanks for all the help, you guys really made my life easier

 

Thanks guys for all the help I hope cause I am doing this for a Reef isn't a turn off

I got the odd ball 5/8" fitting out and replced the with 1/4" then down to 1/8" so now I have a complete setup as soon as the rest of the parts show up, here is what I have so far



Total cost including shipping was $244.00 I wish I had researched that solenoid but we'll see how it does, last I had this setup on a planted that was one of the best, my how things have changed in such a short time. lol

Thanks Again I will be around this tank is going to have a 90 gallon display fuge to house several species saltwater macros so I'm not completely out of planted.

 

Here is a complete parts list including fittings in case anyone else want to build this regulator.

Complete Parts List and Price:

Smith Medium Duty Co2 Regulator S series model 30-100-320 $76.00

Ideal Needle Valve Model 52-1-12 $70.00

Swagelok Check Valve Model SS-2C2-TR-5 5PSI 1/8" $29.00

Clippard Solenoid "unknown model number" If I have problem it will be replaced with a Burkert solenoid model 6011. $31.00

JbJ Brass Bubble Counter MA957 $12.95

Watts Fittings "from lowes" total cost for all fitting below $10.40

A-742 Pipe nipple 1/4" mip x 2" this could be shorter if you need it to be compact.

A-739 Street Elbow 1/4" mip x 1/4" fip

A-734 Reducer 1/4" fipx 1/8" fip

A-715 pipe nipple 1/8" mip x closed

Things to know, the outlet of the Smith regulator 30-100-320 has a 1/4" FPT outlet, this is not left-hand thread, the factory fitting in the outlet is a pita to get out but a big crescent wrench works fine. These are just some problems I had to figure out mainly due to inexperience but I figured I would post them in case someone else needs this info down the road, there is little info to be found when it comes to smith regulators and the aquarium hobby.