Check Valve Which Ones To Use?

Addict

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Ok so I am building a GLA supreme regulator and having some problems deciding on check valves.

http://greenleafaquariums.com/co2-regulators/supreme-co2-regulator.html

I have a smith medium duty regulator body, clippard solenoid, jbj bubble counter and check valve, and an Ideal needle valve.

The problem i have is finding a check valve to go between the needle valve and jbj bubble counter since they are not to be trusted. I believe both are 1/8" npt but the check valves I find are 10/32 npt and the reducer fittings are costly so can i use these?

http://store.fabco-air.com/proddetail.php?prod=CV

Any help on locating these fittings would be great, also I did find the 1/8 x 10/32 reducers and mini check valves from clippard but they are around 40.00 with shipping and handling charges.

Thanks
Eric
 
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Left C

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That GLA regulator has an extra check valve that is between the Ideal needle valve and the JBJ bubble counter.

The JBJ bubble counter check valve is mounted on the inside of the nozzle where the bubbles come out.

So, in essence you already have two check valves between the needle valve and bubble counter. You really don't need to purchase another one.



That Fabco valve looks to be very good. Clippard makes one that is similar. The main difference is that the Clippard check valve has a little higher cracking pressure of 1 psig. It is part number MJCV-1AA: http://clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MJCV-1AA#



Here's some much cheaper tubing check valves on ebay that are suitable for CO2: http://cgi.ebay.com/High-Grade-Bras...594603?pt=AU_Pet_Supplies&hash=item3cace2fc2b
More check valves: http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_npmv=3&_trksid=m570&_nkw=co2+check+valve
 
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Addict

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Left C thank you for the input, I need to add that check valve in between the needle valve and bubble counter, I did not buy a Gla this time :D although Orlando is a great guy I wanted to DIY this one just for the exsperience, I was just listing the components I bought recently and that check valve is all I'm missing :D,

I am trying to avoid clippard, the shipping and handling fee is like $20 before you buy anything, for the check valve and two fittings it's $40.00 and that's more than I want to spend if I have a choice but not out of the question.
 
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nipat

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A local lfs changed my view on check valve.

When I said these cheap plastic check valves weren't trustable,
he asked me back, ‘Are you sure the expensive ones won't fail?’.
Then he added, ‘Just use these cheap valves two or three in series
and change them with new cylinder if you're that serious.’

I bought his idea.
 

Left C

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Addict;54798 said:
Left C thank you for the input, I need to add that check valve in between the needle valve and bubble counter, I did not buy a Gla this time :D although Orlando is a great guy I wanted to DIY this one just for the exsperience, I was just listing the components I bought recently and that check valve is all I'm missing :D,

I am trying to avoid clippard, the shipping and handling fee is like $20 before you buy anything, for the check valve and two fittings it's $40.00 and that's more than I want to spend if I have a choice but not out of the question.
Sorry Addict. I misread your post. I thought that you already had a GLA regulator.

If that Fabco valve is cheap including shipping. It would be fine for use between the needle valve and the bubble counter. There are two models; one with a spring and one without a spring with differing cracking pressures too.

Here's 1/8" male NPT brass check valves for between your Ideal valve and JBJ BC. Not cheap though. $34 for two: http://cgi.ebay.com/2-Swagelok-Nupr...253?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item255a20b675



Also, those post regulator tubing check valves that I listed are sold by another company at a higher price. Nipat's suggestion is a good one too.
 

Addict

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As far as inline valves go I don't mind cheap but I want my regulator and bubble counter threaded together as one unit so I need these to make that happen but what you say is true, I'm more worried about the jbj failing and the bubble counter fluid making it into my regulator, very little chance tank water would get back that far with the inline check valves.

I ordered the swagelok check valves you suggested of ebay, now I have one last issue :D The outlet from the smith regulator is 5/8" I cannot find any series of fitting to reduce it down to 1/8, If I removed the fitting from the regulator looks like the actual holes is 1/2" but how do you get that fitting out of the regulator without breaking it?

Thanks for the help guys, I really appreciate it :D
 

Left C

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Addict;54820 said:
As far as inline valves go I don't mind cheap but I want my regulator and bubble counter threaded together as one unit so I need these to make that happen but what you say is true, I'm more worried about the jbj failing and the bubble counter fluid making it into my regulator, very little chance tank water would get back that far with the inline check valves.

I ordered the swagelok check valves you suggested of ebay,
Great! I'm glad I found those. The pickins' were rather lean today.

Addict;54820 said:
... now I have one last issue :D The outlet from the smith regulator is 5/8" I cannot find any series of fitting to reduce it down to 1/8, If I removed the fitting from the regulator looks like the actual holes is 1/2" but how do you get that fitting out of the regulator without breaking it?

Thanks for the help guys, I really appreciate it :D
All the regulators that I have seen have some wierd outlet fitting that is removed leaving a 1/4" female NPT port on the regulator. The fitting isn't 1/4" in diameter, it measures approximately 1/2" in diameter like you mentioned. Why this is, I don't know; but Rex told me about it. H You can see in the following DIY thread from Rex that it is removed leaving the 1/4" NPT port.
http://www.rexgrigg.com/regulator.htm

This fitting on the regular is usually on very tight. Sometimes Loctite from the factory is used to hold it in place. Some people use an impact wrench or air driver to get it off.

This is what I do. Instead of putting the regulator in a vice, I put the fitting in a vice and clamp it down rather tight. Then I rotate the regulator to screw it off. This gives more leverage plus the regulator isn't marked up from being in the vice. Sometimes I might have to put a wrench on the regulator for added leverage while being careful so that it doesn't leave a mark. The nut part of the CGA fitting is a good place to put the wrench. You get plenty of leverage to get it off by doing this and it is removed rather easily. Does this make sense?
 

Addict

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Makes sense :D

Hey how long do you normally have to wait to hear from Rex just curious :D
 

Tom Barr

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Addict;54824 said:
Makes sense :D

Hey how long do you normally have to wait to hear from Rex just curious :D

How lucky do you feel?
Tis a question often asked.


Regards,
Tom Barr
 

Addict

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Tom Barr;54837 said:
How lucky do you feel?
Tis a question often asked.


Regards,
Tom Barr

:eek: I guess i won't wait then just forget about it till it happens :eek:
 

Tom Barr

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I got some of the SS swageloks, they are $$$ if you buy them from a dealer vs ebay.
Not cheap, but if you have a problem tank, might be worth your while to get high grade reg, valves, check valves, CO2 line and needle wheel.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 

Tom Barr

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I got some of the SS swageloks, they are $$$ if you buy them from a dealer vs ebay.
Not cheap, but if you have a problem tank, might be worth your while to get high grade reg, valves, check valves, CO2 line and needle wheel.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 

Addict

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I'm building this for a calcium reactor :D so I doubt I'll have any problems with it and I'm in no hurry although i may be interested in one of those swagelok valves.

Shoot me a pm with price and i'll let you know.

Thanks for all the help, you guys really made my life easier :D
 

Addict

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Thanks guys for all the help :D I hope cause I am doing this for a Reef isn't a turn off :D

I got the odd ball 5/8" fitting out and replced the with 1/4" then down to 1/8" so now I have a complete setup as soon as the rest of the parts show up, here is what I have so far :D

IMG00024-20100904-2225.jpg


Total cost including shipping was $244.00 I wish I had researched that solenoid but we'll see how it does, last I had this setup on a planted that was one of the best, my how things have changed in such a short time. lol

Thanks Again :D I will be around this tank is going to have a 90 gallon display fuge to house several species saltwater macros so I'm not completely out of planted.
 

Addict

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Here is a complete parts list including fittings in case anyone else want to build this regulator.

Complete Parts List and Price:

Smith Medium Duty Co2 Regulator S series model 30-100-320 $76.00

Ideal Needle Valve Model 52-1-12 $70.00

Swagelok Check Valve Model SS-2C2-TR-5 5PSI 1/8" $29.00

Clippard Solenoid "unknown model number" If I have problem it will be replaced with a Burkert solenoid model 6011. $31.00

JbJ Brass Bubble Counter MA957 $12.95

Watts Fittings "from lowes" total cost for all fitting below $10.40

A-742 Pipe nipple 1/4" mip x 2" this could be shorter if you need it to be compact.

A-739 Street Elbow 1/4" mip x 1/4" fip

A-734 Reducer 1/4" fipx 1/8" fip

A-715 pipe nipple 1/8" mip x closed

Things to know, the outlet of the Smith regulator 30-100-320 has a 1/4" FPT outlet, this is not left-hand thread, the factory fitting in the outlet is a pita to get out but a big crescent wrench works fine. These are just some problems I had to figure out mainly due to inexperience but I figured I would post them in case someone else needs this info down the road, there is little info to be found when it comes to smith regulators and the aquarium hobby.