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change size barr on a AM 1000 CO2 Reactor

Discussion in 'General Plant Topics' started by inkslinger, Nov 26, 2008.

  1. inkslinger

    inkslinger Guru Class Expert

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    Has any done this before , I would like to change the 1/2 inch bars and tap it out to 3/4 or 1 inch. Any pic would help also Thanks.
     
  2. Tom Barr

    Tom Barr Founder
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    Then you have blow out of the bubbles, you'd need new screw in caps with larger pipe inlets.

    Simpler to DIY a reactor tube, add the bleed valve, clear PCV, make the in/out any size you wish as well as the reactor tube diameter/length.

    It's hardly a high tech device.

    Regards,
    Tom Barr
     
  3. dapellegrini

    dapellegrini Lifetime Charter Member
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    Ya I spent a lot of time and energy looking to mod mine to a 3/4" barb - you would think Aqua Medic would make a simple piece... But they don't and the threading on the barb (that you can unscrew from the top) is metric.

    If you haven't already bought one, I agree with Tom - just build your own. If you have - the easiest thing to do is just get some 1/2-3/4 barb adapters.
     
  4. Gerryd

    Gerryd Plant Guru Team
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    Hi,

    Here are a couple of threads on these DIY reactors that you can build to your own cofiguration and specifications.

    http://www.barrreport.com/articles/3444-dual-venturi-diy-external-co2-reactor.html?highlight=reactor

    http://www.barrreport.com/articles/41-diy-internal-reactor-great-yeast-co2-users.html?highlight=reactor

    I agree that building your own is your best bet. Depends on what size/config of your setup.

    I used an AM1000 as is in my 180 for a while and it did ok. Just my setup was not good for this and it underperformed for me as I think I overwhelmed it:)

    Yes, you would wouldn't you? Do they really think one size fits all?

    Hope this helps.
     
  5. inkslinger

    inkslinger Guru Class Expert

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  6. dapellegrini

    dapellegrini Lifetime Charter Member
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    Looks like he did the only thing you can do with it - drilled out the threading on the top and bottom and fitted the new holes with bulkheads.

    Great links BTW
     
  7. inkslinger

    inkslinger Guru Class Expert

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    This is what auaman3000 said to me :
    {I drilled out the 1/2" barbs in each end cap of the AM 1000, then tapped them for the PVC fittings. I then used PVC solvent to glue the end caps and PVC fittings together.}
    So it must be just the cap on each end that he tap out and attach the bulkhead to them. But over all size would this work with a higher flow rate of over 1190gph? or should a larger size {3x24} be use . The one I built has a 3/4 bulkhead witch I could use ether a 3/4 x 1/2 , 3/4 x 5/8 or just 3/4.
     
  8. cggorman

    cggorman Prolific Poster

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    I reworked my AM1000 to accept CPVC 1/2 MPT adapters. Just cut off the barbs and drill/tap to the correct thread. Those AM1000 threaded endcaps are pretty thick. They don't even need solvent or sealant. Using a pipe thread and teflon tape, mine are completely leak free and completely re-buildable.

    In addition to the threaded adapter, I included a pair of elbows on each end to correct what I considered to be poor hose routing for a reactor hung on the tank rim. Mine isn't visible above the light strip and doesn't put any kinks or stress on the hose.

    Give me a few hours and I'll put together a drawing. Getting a camera behind there is impossible.
     
  9. Tom Barr

    Tom Barr Founder
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    The AM 1000 is actually an old design that was Dupla's old s reactor.

    difference?

    70$ vs 150-200$

    Regards,
    Tom Barr
     
  10. cggorman

    cggorman Prolific Poster

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    Here's a rough sketch of what I've done. It hangs from the rim in the pictured orientation and top-most piping is about level with the rim top.
     

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