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But is it made of... wood? A Mr Aqua 45cm cube

Discussion in 'Journals' started by jedimasterben, Jan 20, 2016.

  1. jedimasterben

    jedimasterben Junior Poster

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    So over the next couple of weeks I'll be taking my 13.3g tank down and setting up a Mr Aqua 45cm cube. I was going to use the same tank and everything, but I was going to need to build a stand for it as I'm moving it to a different room. It's on a storage dresser right now, but my wife has always wanted it out of the living room lol. The tank got a scratch on the front panel somehow (my cats use it as a water bowl, so it's possibly due to them), so I figured all of this combined, it would be pretty similar to just buying a new tank, so screw it, let's do this. :D

     


    [​IMG]

     

     


    Equipment

     


    Display


    Mr Aqua 'Brilliant' 45cm cube


     


    Substrate


    CaribSea Super Naturals Moonlight + Tahitian Moon sands

     


    Filtration


    Sunsun HW-304B



    Filter floss



    ROX 0.8 activated carbon



    100mL Seachem Purigen



    Pure calcium carbonate powder additions for added clarity


     


    Flow


    TBD if necessary


     


    Heater


    Cobalt Neo-Therm 75 watt


     


    CO2


    Concoa Stainless Steel dual-stage regulator



    Fabco NV-55-18 metering valve



    Clippard Mouse EVO-3-12 solenoid



    CO2 Canister size TBD
    Cerges reactor

     


    Lighting


    DIY LED setup


    Old school Nanocustoms Unibody heatsink with Gooseneck


    2x Bridgelux Vero 10 3000K 97CRI



    2x Bridgelux V10 5000K 90CRI



    2x LEDgroupbuy 410nm violet



    2x Luxeon Rebel ES royal blue



    2x Luxeon Rebel blue



    2x Luxeon Rebel cyan



    4x Luxeon Rebel ES lime



    Nano Box Reef driver board



    4x Meanwell LDD-700H



    Meanwell SCW05C-12 powering fans



    Meanwell SCW05C-12 powering Clippard solenoid from O2surplus adapter



    Bluefish Mini for control of LEDs and solenoid


     

     


    Livestock

     


    Fish

    • Betta splendens
    • Panaqolus maccus
    • Paracheirodon innesi
    • Poecilia reticulata
    Invertebrates

    • TBD
    Plants

    • Anubias barteri var 'petite'
    • Echinodorus amazonicus
    • Ludwigia sp.
    • Staurogyne repens
    • Taxiphyllum sp. 'peacock'


    There will be quite a bit more to come, so stay tuned :)
     
    2 people like this.
  2. Dennis Singh

    Dennis Singh SynKing!

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    Nice tank, keep updated with new pics
     
  3. jedimasterben

    jedimasterben Junior Poster

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    So the stand is mostly built, got the materials on Monday and got the frame of it assembled and squared.


    The stand is made of 1x poplar boards. The top and inner shelf is made from 1/2" sandeply. The frame is 18"x18" outer and is with the plywood on top is 30" tall.


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    I have finished the first layer of wood filler in any gaps, let it dry last night, and whenever I am able I will move on to sanding, sealing the inside, priming, and painting. I will also be making the doors, those will come soon.
     
    2 people like this.
  4. jedimasterben

    jedimasterben Junior Poster

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    Yesterday evening I started sanding the wood filler, made the joints look a whole lot better, though can still see that there is a change in height on some of them, but not noticeable unless you are really looking for it. Damned poplar boards were, on average, 1/16" difference in width and height. I then flipped the stand upside down and used a tape measure to measure exactly 29.5" from the plywood top (which was now on the ground) and used a belt sander to get each of the legs exactly straight, now she sits perfectly level with no wobble :) I also sealed the bottom shelf and inner seams with paintable caulking. Plan for this evening is to get the crown molding cut and installed and start priming the entire thing with Kilz.


    Oh, and look what arrived from BRS yesterday :)


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    I also received the glass holesaw a couple of days ago, so I will be figuring out where I want my holes to be and get them drilled. I am using 3/4" bulkheads to connect to the SunSun canister filter using all 3/4" piping. This way I will not have anything coming over the top of the tank. I will be cutting the cord on my Neotherm heater and sticking it into the Cerges reactor, so long as it has room for it, anyway. If not, I'll have to figure something else out to be able to keep it out of the display.
     
    #4 jedimasterben, Jan 22, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 22, 2016
    2 people like this.
  5. SwampGremlin

    SwampGremlin Member

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    Nice!..Thats going to look good.
     
  6. jedimasterben

    jedimasterben Junior Poster

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    Thanks!


    Was able to get the stand primed on Friday, second coat on Saturday morning, then a coat of appliance epoxy paint on Saturday evening. My dad finally brought my grandpa his router table back, so I was able to get the door frames cut and routed out to hold acrylic panels that I will very lightly sand to give it a 'frosted' look. I managed to mess up the frames a bit, though, as I didn't think to not route out the ends of the wood. Whoops!


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    Not too much left to do! Putty/sand/prime/paint the doors, sand the acrylic, silicone/epoxy the acrylic into the door frames, prime/paint the crown molding, attach the door magnet hardware, and I think we're all set! My canister filter arrived, I have all the parts for the Cerges reactor (at least, I'm pretty sure I do, anyway), and the last parts to finish out my CO2 regulator.


    I have been trying to get ahold of Praxair, the only place I can get CO2 locally, and have called several times a day for a few days last week and no one ever answered the phone. I guess I will have to actually go there just to find out their prices. I screwed up when I made the stand and didn't think about the size of the equipment going into it, my canister filter is about 11"x11", a 5lb CO2 tank is like 6.5" diameter, my Cerges reactor will be like 4"... and the inside of the stand is 16.5"x16.5".


    I've also decided to swap out some of the LEDs in my light, changing the 5000K 90CRI and 3000K 97CRI Bridgelux Vero to 5600K 90CRI and 2700K 97CRI Vero. Only problem is the heatsink i am using has channels between where the LEDs go and I would have to either cut into them or cut the Bridgelux Vero 18 PCB to fit. I don't think it would be too much of a problem, but I'd rather not ruin the LEDs or the heatsink lol.
     
    2 people like this.
  7. jedimasterben

    jedimasterben Junior Poster

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    Wasn't able to do a whole lot on the stand yesterday. I went to Home Depot and got the silicone to attach the acrylic panels to the doors, the magnets for holding the doors to the stand, a new paintbrush since I ruined my other one lol. I then sanded the edges of all of the doors, applied wood putty to the joints (and let that sit overnight), and then got to work on getting the acrylic panels frosted and ready to use. 120 grit on a corner cat sander did some real quick work! Don't worry, the spots on them are moisture - when the acrylic gets wet, it becomes transparent again!


    [​IMG]


    Today I will be sanding the doors, priming them and the crown molding, I should have enough time to get two coats of it on. Will let it dry overnight, then tomorrow I will paint them with the appliance epoxy paint, and I may need to do another coat of that on Thursday. then I'll be able to attach the acrylic panels on Friday and get the magnet hardware attached on Saturday, and she will be complete! I'll take her home and then will start getting the tank ready.


    I think tonight I will do some measuring on the tank itself and figure out where I want my bulkheads to be and get the holes drilled. I should be getting the rest of the pieces of my CO2 regulator in today or tomorrow, so I can also go ahead and get that put together. Still haven't been able to get ahold of anyone at Praxair nor had the time to swing by there. May ask my grandpa if he can go by there and get some info.
     
    2 people like this.
  8. Jason King

    Jason King barrreport.com
    Staff Member Administrator

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    Looking good Ben :)
     
  9. jedimasterben

    jedimasterben Junior Poster

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    Thanks!


    Was able to get the doors primed, two coats of Kilz. paint tomorrow :)


    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  10. jedimasterben

    jedimasterben Junior Poster

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    After tons and tons of rain, I was finally able to get working again on the stand. So close I can almost taste it!


    Look at that gloss :)


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    Got the acrylic siliconed in place.


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    Doorknobs.


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    Figured I'd paint the rope the same color as the walls in the room :)


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    Got some driftwood for this tank and a new 5g PicO at work. Also a bit of magnesium sulfate :)


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    Driftwood soup, anyone?


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    As long as the silicone on the doors has cured, I will drill the holes for the knobs and get the mounting hardware attached and then she will be DONE! Then I just need to drill the tank, get it plumbed up, and get a damned CO2 canister and finish the regulator.
     
    2 people like this.
  11. jedimasterben

    jedimasterben Junior Poster

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    Brought the tank to my grandparents' house today to get a test fit and to get it drilled.


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    Drilling went without a hitch, thankfully! Would have been a $130 mistake otherwise :)


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    Doorknobs remind me a of a clown's nose!


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    The finished product!


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    This week I will start getting her all plumbed together and get the regulator assembled. The big piece of Mopani in the tank is a bit unstable, so I used a few dabs of silicone and will let that dry before adding the sand, which I cleaned up today, and calculated that it would give me roughly 2" depth.
     
    2 people like this.
  12. jedimasterben

    jedimasterben Junior Poster

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    [​IMG]


    V2 for my new 45cm cube.


    2x Bridgelux Decor Ultra Vero 10 2700K 97CRI (BXRC-27H1000-B-23)


    2x Bridgelux Decor Specialty Vero 18 5600K 90CRI (BXRC-56G4000-F-24)


    2x SemiLEDs 420nm violet


    2x Rebel ES royal blue


    2x Rebel blue


    2x Rebel cyan


    4x Rebel ES lime


    Run on 1A, 700mA, and 350mA LDD with 5w SCW for the fan on a Nano Box Reef driver board and enclosure. Heatsink is a Nanocustoms Unibody 108, powdercoated to Pearl White. The Vero 18 will be run on a 1A LDD in parallel for an effective 500mA, the Vero 10 at 700mA in parallel for an effective 350mA, the violet/royal blue/blue at 700mA, and lime/cyan at 350mA. All controlled by Bluefish Mini.
     
  13. jedimasterben

    jedimasterben Junior Poster

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    So the past couple of nights I made some progress. I got the stand and tank home and siliconed the wood into place. Let that dry and last night got the bulkheads attached properly with the street elbows and did a quick dry fit of some of the plumbing.


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    Then I remembered that I did not apply the frosted background. DOH!


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    Tossed the sand in and put in a few gallons of water to let it settle because it is pretty :)


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    Then I started getting the filtration and Cerges reactor going. Put some silicone onto the tube inside the reactor and left it to dry today. Unfortunately I realized that the filter housing is not large enough to also house my Neotherm Heater, which is sad. I will have to find another way to do it.


    [​IMG]


    This canister is a MONSTER. It has a UV lamp installed, though I'm not sure if I'd ever need it, I am thinking of drilling where the socket is and running my heater cord through it (and siliconing up the hole). I also may just drill directly into the housing of the canister and just set the heater inside one of the baskets, it should be small enough to do so. The marketing says not to lay the heater on its side or upside down, but that looks to be because they never want the hot end exposed to air, so I should be safe.


    [​IMG]


    And check out the tannins still coming from the wood! My bag of Purigen is gonna get a workout :D


    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  14. jedimasterben

    jedimasterben Junior Poster

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    Annnnnd great. Last night I was assembling my regulator and managed to pull the wires right out of my Clippard solenoid. :mad:


    I did at least manage to find three types of aquatic plants yesterday in the ditch in front of my house :)


    [​IMG]


    This I know is a species of Ludwigia, maybe a red repens.


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    Another ludwigia? I will get some better photos once it is planted and grows in a bit.


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    This is what one species looks like when submerged.


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    And the same species in a spot where the water has dried up.


    [​IMG]
     
    #14 jedimasterben, Feb 3, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 3, 2016
    2 people like this.
  15. jedimasterben

    jedimasterben Junior Poster

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    I realized that my heater isn't a 75w Neotherm, it is only 50w, so it definitely won't be enough for the new larger setup. Not sure if I should buy another 50w and just place both of them into the canister filter or buy a 100w and do it that way. Went ahead and finished what I have got now, will figure out the heater situation later, it's 76 in the room right now, and it's not like Florida has a real winter anyway :p


    Will be painting the visible stuff so it won't be as noticeable from inside the tank. The tank is light enough to slide out a bit to work on the back :)


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    Moment of truth!


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    But then sadface, the silicone didn't adhere to the wood at all :(


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    3 people like this.
  16. Julia Adkins

    Julia Adkins aquariumfertilizer.com
    Lifetime Member

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    Wow! I am so impressed with all of this! Really like this cube tank and the way the overflow is just two holes in the back of the tank. Your cabinetry work is beautiful! And your tank is coming together nicely. But dangerous. I want a tank like this. Guess I will need to get work on a new tank myself.
     
    2 people like this.
  17. jedimasterben

    jedimasterben Junior Poster

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    Thank you! I will be adding a low profile overflow strainer to the drain and a small bit of loc-line and a fan fitting to the return if the flow is too much in one spot and I think it needs to be spread out, but I don't think that will be the case, there isn't a ton of flow coming from the return hole. :(
     
  18. jedimasterben

    jedimasterben Junior Poster

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    Well, my plans are all pretty much ruined. The Cerges reactor reduces flow by such an amount that the output is literally giving less than 120GPH, which is nowhere near enough flow for this tank without adding powerheads. The canister is also so tall that it is almost impossible to remove from the stand now that the plumbing is all installed. :(
     
  19. jedimasterben

    jedimasterben Junior Poster

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    Ok, so I have ordered a Pentek 'Big Blue' 10" canister and a Pentek 2.5"x10" clear canister, both of which are 'high flow' and 3/4" fittings. I will be using a Reef Octopus RODC 2500 pump, which is capable of a max of 792GPH and is rated for 10.8' of head. By my calculations, The plumbing will give me about 3.3' of head loss, putting me at around 740GPH, then the two canisters (one will be for filter floss, the other is the Cerges reactor) should hopefully not knock off too much of that, but even if each of them adds 2' of head loss, that is still like 400GPH or so, which would be stellar compared to the garbage flow I'm getting now.


    [​IMG]
     
  20. tefsom85

    tefsom85 Lifetime Members
    Lifetime Member

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    I have a Reef Octopus DC pump and I love it. Mine appears to be an older model but it works great. I use it as a return pump out of my sump. One of the best features that I did not think about is it's usefulness during water changes. As I'm changing water, I pump most of the water out of the sump and then turn it off until after its refilled. (It actually turns off for 15 mins and then comes back on automatically - so I have to actually turn it off twice). But, its just a power button on the external controller. Also, its extremely quiet.
     
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