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Bubble rate different in different tank. Why do I need higher bubble rate in my tank?

Discussion in 'CO2 Enrichment' started by oliverpool, Feb 27, 2015.

  1. oliverpool

    oliverpool Lifetime Charter Member
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    I understand it is not correct to measure bubbles per second as all bubbles are different in size and each tank is different. However, I have been struggling with CO2 as I has a bunch of BBA in my tank. I just recently decided to replace most of my top soil with new soil and took away most plants to restart. My Crypts and the tropica bonsai plants were the few plants that seem to thrive without any algae. I also did a full cleaning of my filters, pipes and my co2 cerges reactor. I have a Ehiem Pro 2E filter that allows me to check for flow and with all the cleaning, I actually improved my flow rate by around 15%.


    However, I found that to get max co2 now (yellow co2 indicator) and around 1 PH level drop, I need something like 2-3 times my previous CO2 levels. I used to be running around 3-4 bps to now just over 9 bps! At this rate I empty my 2L tank every 6-8 weeks! I know its 9 bps as I use the iphone slow mo rate to capture 10 secs of bubbles and counted them average over 10 secs. Really useful that slo-mo feature... Now I cant say if this will finally solve my CO2 issues as the rescape tank is still new. But in my case I do not see why i had to increase my co2 rate 3 times to get the same 1 ph drop and yellow co2 indicator? It almost seems to be my "measurements" either then or now is wrong somehow. I assume my old setup (no change in equipment) had low co2 as I had BBA. But even then 1 PH drop and yellow indicator showing, I could not increase CO2 rate without many of my fished swimming at the top gasping. Now, I could actually still increase my co2 higher with only a few fishes showing signs of gasping...


    Any thoughts on this?
     
  2. Tom Barr

    Tom Barr Founder
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    Established tanks are much easier to manage and use less.


    Cranking the CO2 after a redo is common practice, along with 2-3x a week water changes for 2-4 weeks.


    Use a pH meter, NOT a drop checker, there's most of the problem right there.
     
  3. Dennis Singh

    Dennis Singh SynKing!

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    I have seen the benefit of flooding with co2. As long as you've got enough current your good to go with o2 and plants producing o2 as well. My bubble rate is very high. Stimulates plant growth very nicely. From all algae below tops are doing pretty outstanding. Once I got rid of algae, even better. Do you have high light? Worry about your fish first though. I don't know if this helps or I'm just blabbering.
     
  4. oliverpool

    oliverpool Lifetime Charter Member
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    I do not have a par meter so do not know what is my light level. I am running my LED lights at around 50% which base on estimates from the manufaturer of my LED is around 30-50par so medium light. Defintely not high light for sure. My Crypts, moss, rotala Bonsai, Pogostemon erectus all are growing and doing well. However my alternanthera reineckii mini melted after planting for some reason. I still think i am lacking in some nuitrient. But I am dosing EI at medium levels. Maybe a magnisium deficiency or something. CO2 is at the moment the highest I dare to have. Takes around 1 hour to drop my PH by around 0.7 and another 30-45 mins to get to 1ph below. 8 hours of light with 2 hours ramp up and 2 hours ramp down. CO2 comes in around 2 hours before lights start ramping up and off 2 hours before lights goes totally off. Lots of flow as I have a mp10 pushing water in the same direction as my outflow. plants are pearling at around the 3 hours lights on mark usually earlier. I may have to decrease my co2 levels a little as I lost some amano shrimps recently since this increase in co2. I understand they are sensitive to co2. they do go a little crazy around 3 hours after the co2 comes on. Trying to increase water rippling without breaking the water.
     
  5. oliverpool

    oliverpool Lifetime Charter Member
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    I have both. The drop checker is just a fast visual check to ensure my co2 has not run out etc. I dun even rely on it but its a back up. I know use ph exclusively and fishes of course to dial in my co2 levels. Are there any tricks ti increase co2 levels without hurting fishes short of a wet/dry filter? I just do not have the space and time to work one into my setup at this time.
     
  6. Tom Barr

    Tom Barr Founder
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    Switching out a filter is a PITA. Done it many times. Use the pH meter and leave it on all the time and watch the pH. Some days, you are at work, busy etc, but check it as you walk by from time to a time. Some folks use those eheim surface skimmers. Some adjust the outflow each night and lower before the lights come on etc. This is why a wet/dry is much better if you start adding up all those extra things going into the tank.


    The O2 meter was the most illuminating factor for me to change over.


    You can also do more water changes. Like 2x a week.


    Again, the general issue is still present and more labor or cost might not outweigh a filter change, but then it again, it might.


    That's up to you to decide, not me.
     
  7. oliverpool

    oliverpool Lifetime Charter Member
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    I am working on a wet and dry. Looking for a Mame or similar. Need to build a sump and find space under my tank to fit all this in. Will take some time though. In the meantime, I am still puzzled what to do best. I do have a ehiem skimmer that runs like 12 hours after the co2 goes off. I now have it running around mid way in my light cycle to help with getting rid of the slight oil on the surface levels that build up after some hours of co2 injection to help with oxygen exchange. Please see my PH chart.


    [​IMG]


    Basically I get a 1 to 1.1ph drop. My CO2 runs from 1pm to 830pm. while my lights ramp up from 0-full from 2pm to 4pm and then from full-0 from 8pm to 10pm. Skimmer is on from 6pm to around 10am. You can see the effect of the skimmer from the ph chart at around 6pm onwards. Any suggestions on what I can improve on this?


    My ferts seems correct as far as I can tell.


    I dose the following 3 times a week each for Micro and Macro. Each dose is 20ml with one rest day which is also my water change day. at least 50% water change each week.


    500ml Macro solution :-


    8 tsp KNO3 + 0.5 tsp KH2PO4 + 5 tsp MgSO4H20


    Base on my calculations this should add the following to my 50G tank.


    Each dose - 7.5 NO3 = 22.5ppm


    1.69 N = 5.07ppm


    4.73 K = 14.09ppm


    0.54 K = 1.62ppm


    0.42 P = 1.26ppm


    1.30 PO4 = 3.90ppm


    equals 19.14ppm of NO3


    4.32ppm of N


    15.96ppm of K


    1.56ppm of P


    4.74ppm of PO4


    500ml Micro solution :-


    1tsp of CSM+B


    The calculator tells me to use 8 tsp which I did for 1 year but suffered alot of issues with my tank. I rechecked with fertilator among other and seems like 1tsp seems like a better target between minimum and maximum.


    Let me know if I am doing something very wrong. Of ya, I managed to check my par levels borrowing one from a friend and it shows I have around 30-35 par everywhere in the tank at the sediment level. I can increase this to around 70-80 but am afraid the BBA starts to be introduced again.
     
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