Basic Swagelok Parts needed for 90* and VTS Builds

[Matt F.]

Since there has been a number of emails as to the appropriate parts for these two basic configurations, I though I'd start a thread to help people. These are configured for standard 4mm/6mm ID/OD pressure resistant tubing.

Step 1: create an online Swagelok account to order and buy direct. Simple process that takes only a few minutes.
http://www.swagelok.com/?showLogin=N

Enter part number in "search" area on website for pics and ordering.

(for stainless steel, substitute "SS" for "B")

These part numbers are in order from regulator to tube adapter.


VTS250 series type regulator:

B-4-HRN-2
B-2-SE
Solenoid (w/ female 1/8" npt ports)
B-2-HN
Needle/Metering Valve
B-2-HN
B-2C4-1/3 (female threaded check valve)
B-6MO-1-2
B-6M5-4M

Or

My favorite way:

B-4-HRN-2
B-2-SE
(solenoid)
B-2-NH
(needle valve)
B-2C2-1/3 (male threaded check valve)
B-6MO-7-2
B-6M5-4M

For those of you who are hellbent on using a JBJ bubble counter:

B-4-HRN-2
B-2-SE
(Solenoid)
B-2-HN
(Needle Valve)
B-2C2-1/3
JBJ BUBBLE COUNTER

Should look like this:

HPT/BHT/SGT 500 Series Type Regulator (90*):

SS-4-HLN-2.00
SS-4-RSE-2
(solenoid)
SS-2-ME
(needle valve)
SS-2c2-1/3 (male threaded check valve)
SS-6MO-7-2
SS-6M5-4M

Optional:
B-4-HLN-2.00
B-4-RSE-2
SOlenoid
B-2-ME
Needle/Metering Valve
B-2-HN
B-2c4-1/3 (female threaded check valve)
B-6MO-1-2
B-6M5-4M

The same configuration can be used for the GPT/HPT270 Victor models with a 90* output:

This one has a JBJ bubble counter instead of a Swagelok Tube Adapter:

This is my current set-up (a Victor SGT500 with full stainless post body) (notice the Swagelok Tube Adapter instead of a JBJ bubble counter):

I also recommend using a glass ADA bubble counter, the ADA gray or clear parts kit, and ADA pressure resistant tubing (4mm/6mm) coupled with a Swagelok tube adapter. This will prevent leaks. The JBJ bubble counter is a weak link. Here is what the recommended ADA configuration looks like:

For the other parts, see below:

Ideal Valve
Stainless: V54-1-12
Brass: V52-1-12
Call Bill Sand to orderhone (701) 352-1164
[email protected]

Burkert Solenoid

 

[Matt F.]

If you want to run a male 1/8" npt check valve, the part number is B-2c2-1/3.
You can screw this into the ideal valve (or other valve w/ female 1/8" npt), then use a 1/8" female coupling B-2-HCG, then the B-6MO-1-2 and B-6M5-4M.

This configuration can be seen in my SGT 500 (90*) pciture above (the second picture).
The first picture is of the parts listed in the first post.

 

[Matt F.]

I recommend buying a Burkert type 6011 solenoid and an Ideal valve (part number: V52-1-12).

 

[Matt F.]

On the HPT/BHT/SGT 500 series, you can remove the bulky pressure relief valve and plug that 1/4" npt port with this part number:

B-4-HP (brass)

or

SS-4-HP (stainless)

 

[Matt F.]

for the latest Victor specialty gas regulator specs:
http://www.thermadyne.com/IM_Uploads/DocLib_1175_56-0874.pdf

 

[Matt F.]

The Burkert solenoid can be bought with Viton seals or Buna-N. As Left C pointed out, Buna-N was rates "Excellent" for Co2 usage and Viton was rated "Good."

Will we ever know the difference? Prob not. Viton is also a great material (handles corrosives well). I have both Viton and Buna-N solenoids currently running on my set-ups.

The Viton is older by a few months (still running as it is suppose to). The Buna-N is in a higher priced stainless Burkert.

The difference in price:

$48 in brass (plus shipping)
$81 in stainless (plus shipping).

You can buy the Buna-N solenoids at Freshwater Systems (see Left C's thread):
http://www.barrreport.com/showthrea...with-Buna-seals-...-available-very-soon/page8
The stainless part number is: 00463939
The brass part number is: 00463938

***Important*** you need to purchase a power cord and DIN connector if you use this source. I have written a DIY on how to wire. It's very easy to do.

Here is a link for the aquariumplant.com unit (brass w/ viton seals)
http://www.aquariumplants.com/Burkert_Brass_Solenoid_Valve_Type_6011_p/bu6011.htm
Part number: 00456786 (brass)

This unit comes with everything needed and installed (e.g. powercord, DIN).

The Ideal Metering Valve w/ Vernier handle can be ordered via phone call to the maker himself (Bill Sand).
Here is the number: (701) 352-1164
http://idealvalve.com/
You want to order the V52-1-12 (brass) or V54-1-12 (stainless)
A regular brass Ideal Valve, which is already overkill runs about $93 shipped to California.
The stainless version is 2-3x this price.

There is a new Fabco needle valve made with 1/8" npt ports. It's about 1/3 of the price of an Ideal. Should be comming out in the next few weeks. It's another good alternative.
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7990-Fabco-Air-NV-55-with-NPT-ports-Anyone-want-one/page5

Part number: NV-55-18
You can order this directly from their site.

 

[GillesF]

Those are some nice looking regulators! Wish they were more easily available in Europe. We have plenty of crap single stage regulators, dual stage regulators on the other hand are hard to get and rather expensive ...

 

[Matt F.]

I would try to order one from here:
VTS253A-1993
http://www.scientificvisions.com/ca...ducts_id=52&osCsid=3lbrqre0j7338oe8a7u48fqu35

or here:
Brand new regulators:
VTS253B-320
http://www.alexgs.com/product/victor-0781-3573.html
VTS253A-320
http://www.alexgs.com/product/victor-0781-3569.html
HPT 270
http://www.alexgs.com/product/victor-0784-0144.html

See if they will ship internationally. Worth a shot.

 

[Matt F.]

Just wanted to bump this thread to show you all the different post body configurations I use when building VTS and 90* regulators.

Check out Post #1 for the parts lists and pictures.

I've updated everything.

 

[inkslinger]

View attachment 2559

Matt F. Could you tell what I would need to put a check valve between my needle valve and bubble counter
the needle valve has a male npt and the bubble counter is female npt both are 1/8inch

:gw

Would you think this check valve would work?
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MJCV-1AB#
It looks like it goes from female to male flow just what I would need ?

 

[Left C]

I'm not Matt, but that might work. It has a 1 PSIG cracking pressure. It might make a clicking noise when it opens and closes though. The 1/8" 1/2 PSIG models make a noise and I don't know if the 1 PSIG will make a noise as well. Because of the possible clicking noise, this is why I didn't list it as an option in your other post. Neither Matt or myself have used that particular Clippard check valve.

Swagelok's are dead silent. I gave you two different Swagelok part numbers plus the fitting needed for each one in your other post. These have a 1/3 PSIG cracking pressure.

oldpunk is selling some Parker check valves that are very good. You'll need a 1/8" FNPT x 1/8" MNPT fitting to go with it. http://www.barrreport.com/showthrea...ss-check-valves-swagelok-ferrules-and-inserts

your other post: http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/9019-Replacing-my-Old-CO2-Regulator

 

[inkslinger]

Thanks Left C I didn't check my other post . I like my 3m I had bought it back in '90 never had a problem with it. I have a Swagelok Needle Valve with my solenoid valve . I was just installing a new diffuser that I would need to have 30psi - 40psi an didn't know if my old 3m regulator would handle it. The Smith Regulator I was looking at goes for $78. - $84 But did like your info on the 2 stage . I guess my best bet is to just get a check valve between the needle valve an bubble counter for now.

 

[Left C]

You are welcome, ink.

I don't know what the upper pressure limit is for the 3M. The Concoa 312 two stage is new and it may go for a cheap price. It would make a good replacement. You can crank it up to 80 psi or so: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...akeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

I don't know what to tell you about that 1 psig Clippard check valve. It might make a clicking noise or it might not????

 

[maknwar]

The clippards you are talking about that click have a some type of flap that allows the co2 to pass through, but not the other way. I have one and when I blow on it, the flap makes noise. I have one if you want to try it. $8 shipped if your in the us.

 

[Left C]

The 1/8" male NPT Clippard MJCV-1AA check valve has a Delrin poppet that clicks. The one that ink mentioned has the same poppet. http://clippard.com/catalog/Page 141.pdf

 

[Jim Miller]

@Left: under what circumstances does it click? I would think with the integration of the "bubbles" that most airline provides through its expansion that the flow would be pretty constant hence the check valve would be constantly leaking rather than opening and closing.

tnx

jim

 

[Left C]

Hi Jim

Matt is the one that has complained. I suggested these MJCV-1 check valves because of their cost, 1/8" NPT fit and their 1 psig cracking pressure. Matt bought some and didn't like them because of the clicking noise. He sent me one. When used on a timer, you would think 2 clicks per day, max. Once when it turns on and once when it turns off. Maybe the check valve was clicking constantly when it was on. Anyway, he didn't like it. We really need Matt's input on this. If I get a chance, I'll build a regulator with one and check it out.

Left C

 

[inkslinger]

It would only be 2 click per day unless you use a co2 controller instead of a timer . How loud are the clicks?
I know the Cippard solenoid valves made a click but were not that loud. So far it's the only one I could get with
out adding any other adopter going from female to male flow. But I might get both set-ups in case I don't like the click??

:gw

 

[Jim Miller]

@Matt: what was the frequency of occurrence of the clicking?

Thanks

Jim

 

[Left C]

I sent Matt a PM a few hours ago.