Aqua Medic CO2 Reactor 1000

shane

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Well, my Dupla CO2 Reactor gave out. It started leaking where the top screws onto the body. The rubber seal looked okay. I must say that thing is a piece of junk. Small inlet/outlet and poor construction. I had another Dupla in-tank Reactor that broke as well.

So now I need to replace the reactor. I was thinking a Aqua Medic CO2 Reactor 1000. I noticed the specs call for a 250gph pump/filter. I was driving the Dupla with a Eheim 2215. I have a 56 gallon tank. Will 160gph be enough to drive this reactor for a 56 gallon tank?

Or does anybody have good success with another reactor. I don't want to get into the diffusers. Trying to keep as many things out of the tank as possible. Hey Tom, have you tried the Cal Aqua external diffuser yet?
 

Tom Barr

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Should be fine.
You can DIY if you want to save 60-70$.
Just no longer get to see the bubbles etc.

You can drive more flow than they suggest through a AM1000(350-400gph).
The Cal lab stuff arrived, I've not had a chance to use it yet, looks very nice though(ADA like quality).

Regards,
Tom Barr
 

shane

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Well, I got the AM1000 setup with my Eheim 2215. I have the reactor on the input side of the filter. Even though the AM1000 has a built-in bubble counter, I install another bubble counter before the reactor. I have the reactor mounted way in the back of the stand, so I really can't see the bubble counter. That is why I mounted another one in plain view.

The CO2 setup for this is the following (in order of what is connected to what):
1) 20lb CO2 tank
2) Regulator
3) Solenoid
4) Needle Valve
5) CHeck Valve
6) Bubble Counter
7) AM1000 Reactor

What I wanted to know was, is the check vavle in the proper spot? I was thinking perhaps I should put the check valve between the reactor and external bubble counter.
 

tefsom85

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I have a Dupla reactor that I have had well over 10 years and, to date, it has worked pretty well. Howveer, its been unused for the last year and has dried out so I'm hoping the o-ring at the top still seals fine when I go to use it. Anyone know where to get the o-rings?
Will
 

shane

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The Dupla Reactor I used to have had some very pathetic threads on the black plastic piece that screws onto the body. You could screw it but it never tightened up really good. tefsom85, Let me know if you need a seal. The seal on mine is still new.
 

Tom Barr

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Most places like Home4 Depot have extensive O ring selections.

If the o ring is old and dry, try adding some valsiline, or silicone lubricant

The reactors I made used a larger heavy duty O ring grommet.
You might try McMaster Carr. They sell everything.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 

fablau

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Shane, I know this is an old thread, but I was wondering if you have been able to use the AM1000 with your 160gph flow? Please, let me know, I have a pump around 200-230 gph and I'd like to know if the AM1000 is going to work fine...

thanks!

Fab.
 

inkslinger

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I ran the Aqua Medic 1000 CO2 Reactor in a 55g tank with an Eheim 1048 pump 160gph it ran all right, From the purge valve from the reactor i ran a line right before the pump and hook it up to a tee with 1/4 hose bar connection and left the bleed valve open on the reactor.
 

Gilles

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I have a tip for everybody who has an Aqua Medic 1000 reactor. I was running so much current through it that the co2 would not dissolve. Off course i could restrict the flow, but then the co2 did not drop fast enough.

Anyway; first of all i unscrewed the bottom of the reactor, and replaced the bioballs with siporax. It can be any kind of ceramic pipes, as long as it is heavier as the bioballs. This is required, since the high flow can make the bioballs thumble and "hit" the side of the reactor making it very noisy. Since the ceramic pipes have a lot of area for bacteria to grow on, and they restrict the co2 from getting out so fast, it is ideal.

Since the outlet of the CO2 (the black straw in the container) is at the bottom of the reactor, and my reactor hangs in my sump, the co2 was not dissolved at all but was just blewing out at the flow i had it running on. So i had to shorten the "straw" as i call it. For that, you have to remove the connector on top of the reactor where you attach the co2 tubing. When you remove it, the black straw also comes loose. It is best to do when the reactor is empty.

Anyway; i attached 3" of co2 tubing instead of the black tubing which was originally there. This means that instead of the co2 being released at the bottom, it is release approx. 2" below the top cap.

Since the flow is pushing the co2 to the bottom, it encounters the ceramic pipes, which restrict the co2 from leaving the canister. I think i am running 300 gallons / hour through this thing and i don't have any problems. All co2 is being dissolved and it is noiseless. I have been using this now for 2 months and no problems whatsover.
 

inkslinger

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Gilles did you fill the reactor to the top with the ceramic pipes and what type did you use because the one i have in my Ehiem looks like it could fall thru or suck out thru the exit hose , I like the idea. I'm running a Mag 5 pump and i don't get any noise in my reactor and i had watch the bubbles travel all the way to the top of the reactor with no problem but with the rings you would think the CO2 would get more contact time and get busted up real good with a good turbulence in the reactor, Right now my water fills the whole thing and is quit as a mouse and i don't know if that's a good thing or not
 

Gilles

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inkslinger;29487 said:
Right now my water fills the whole thing and is quit as a mouse and i don't know if that's a good thing or not

Yes that is perfect. You should avoid as much as you can to have the co2 build up in the top of the reactor. As far as the ceramic pipes. You could use any! If you are worried that they clog your hose, you could just hold the reactor upside down, fill it with as much pipes as possible, and at the bottom put a layer of the old bioballs. This way, your balls heep the pipes from block the flow (hehe)
 

inkslinger

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Thanks Gilles {To avoid as much as you can to have the co2 build up in the top of the reactor} That is why I also run a loop back from the bleeder valve to the pump with an Aqua Medic reducer Tee with the 1/4inch bar back into the pump just for that purpose .
Keep us updated fablau
 

shane

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Hi fablau,

I upgraded the filter to push water through the AM1000. I am using a Eheim 2217 with the AM1000. Works much better. Not as much CO2 buildup in the AM1000 then with the 2215.
 

fablau

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Thank you Shane, that's interesting. My AM 1000 is coming today, then I will try to connect it to my outflow which is driven by a Eheim 1000 Compact Pump:

Eheim 1000 Compact Pump, Pumps > Powerheads > Water Pumps > Aquarium

despite I don't use it at full range (265 gph) because of issues with my sump (it makes too much noise if I leave the pump at maximum power). So, I will try different settings then I will post my results here as soon as possible.

Thank you again!

Best,
Fablau.
 

Tom Barr

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You all know about the modification to make the AM 100 reactor a venturi reactor don't you?

Take an air line and attach to the air bleed valve on top of the reactor, feed the other end into the in take of the 300-400 gph pump, as gas builds up inside the reactor, it will be chopped up and converted back into mist and sent back through the reactor, this helps redissolve the gas or sends it out as CO2 mist into the tank.

Note: this is not wasted CO2, the mist is very effective at growing plants, a few folks may not like the CO2 mist in their tank, but few seem to mind it.

Regards,
Tom Barr