This site is supported by the advertisements on it, please disable your AdBlocker so we can continue to provide you with the quality content you expect.
  1. Support us by upgrading to the lifetime advertisement free version.

    Click here for more information.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. We are after as many aquarium plant images that we can get, doing so will assist us in completing the aquarium plant database.
    Dismiss Notice

Another new guy with Light-C02-Algae questions - Need help Identifying Algae type

Discussion in 'Are you new to aquatic plants? Start here' started by Datsun Dude, May 12, 2016.

  1. Datsun Dude

    Datsun Dude Junior Poster

    May 1, 2016
    Likes Received:
    Local Time:
    12:11 PM
    Hi everyone. I'd like to say thanks to those who run the forum, it's been of great help since starting a planted tank back in January. It is a mr. Aqua 60p tank using Seachem flourish as a substrate. I am running an Eheim 2211 canister filter along with a Hydor nano 240 circulation pump at times for improved circulation.

    The light is an aquatic life edge 24 inch fixture. As far as par, with both channels on it is spec'd to have 95-105 at 12 inches of depth. Channel 1 is the multicolor LEDs and ch2 is the bright white LEDs. There have been several threads on specifics of color temp so I won't beat that horse to death. My understanding is the light has decent par but the spectrum may not be ideal for some of my plants, maybe all.

    I run a custom co2 system thanks to this forum. Regulator is custom built single stage utilizing a Fabco needle valve on a 5lb cylinder at 4bps using a GLA bubble counter into Fluval disc diffuser.

    Eheim spraybar is pointed towards surface for agitation and co2 circulation seems ok for this "wasted" co2 system- bubbles are circulated good from top to bottom. I plan on utilizing an in line diffuser at some point.

    My light/co2 schedule is as follows:

    Co2 on at 10:00 AM. Co2 off at 6:00PM

    Ch1 lights start 12:00PM Stop at 7:00PM

    Ch2 lights start 2:00PM stop 7:00PM

    30 minute ramp up/ramp down for sunrise/sunset.

    Utilizing hourly PH measurements and a co2 drop checker, I can confirm the following:

    Degassed overnight tank water PH- 8.2 (more water perimeters to follow)

    Tank Co2 @1hr -7.4ph

    Tank Co2 @2hr -7.2 - ph held consistent until co2 shutoff for rest of photoperiod.

    My intent with the above is to have as close to 30ppm as possible from the start of photoperiod til the end.

    Water perimeter tests: (same day as co2 testing using all API master test equipment)

    Ammonia- 0-.25ppm

    Nitrite - 0ppm

    Nitrate - 20ppm

    Kh- 14

    Gh- 24

    I will note I live in central Indiana with notoriously hard tap water. I have been filtering the water with a Pur faucet filter for the past couple of months and have seen an improvement in algae control, but I can't shake an unidentifiable kind.

    Ferts and water change schedule:

    Using an adapted EI scheme (finally seeing rotala macrandra growth!)

    40-50% Water change every Tuesday

    Aquarium fertilizer macro micro mix - 1/2tsp +1/8tsp - Wed,Fri,Mon

    GLA KH2PO4 - 1/4tsp + 1/8tsp per 500ml - dose 30ml - Tues,Thurs,Sun

    The fert dosing was calculated using the rotala butterfly calculator. I initially made the mistake of not knowing I was not dosing any P with the macro micro mixand had been fighting terrible green spot algae along with this unidentifiable algae. Once dosing P after a thorough cleaning and trimming, I have not had any green spot algae come back.

    Plant list:

    marsilea crenata - mostly removed for various reasons and algae

    alternanthera reineckii "mini" - few remaining

    ammania "bonsai" - grows like a weed!

    rotala macrandra - very temperamental growth, but once adding p to ferts great growth

    limnophila hippuridoides - unidentifiable algae has decimated this stuff. cut back to stems and is not bouncing back.

    elocharis sp mini - slow growth and is covered in this mystery algae. is setting off new shoots but not carpeting well.

    s. repens- added two weeks ago and is surviving but algae is starting

    alternanthera reineckii cardinalis- added two weeks ago and algae is starting again

    hygro fern- added two weeks ago, it is growing but again,algae

    Whatever this algae is, it loves plant leaves and the glass. On my red plants it appears green hued but on the glass and green plants it appears green to brown hued.

    Thanks for reading, I wanted to be as thorough as I could be, unfortunately in my research I just can't identify whatever this bastard algae is. Seachem excel does not seem to phase it.

    Now on to some pictures:





  2. SwampGremlin

    SwampGremlin Member

    Jun 1, 2015
    Likes Received:
    Local Time:
    12:11 PM
    Just make sure to keep everything stable dont over dose at first and algae is normal for a newly set up tank.If everything has stability the algae will decrease. If i could start over and do it all over again i would make sure i had a back up CO2 tank because if co2 runs dry it can cause problems that are hard to manage.Also any damage leaves are a perfect breeding ground for algae so try to keep damaged leaves to a minimum.Manual removal of algae is always good as well.Disturbing the Substrate will only prolong the process of a clean tank too.
    #2 SwampGremlin, May 23, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: May 23, 2016

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice