Algae

Biollante

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Hi All,

Off topic:
• No disrespect to Philosophos was intended. I am impressed with his calculating and his explanations. If my remarks (‘dad-gummed’ or otherwise) led Philosophos or anyone else to think I was being disrespectful, I apologize.

• I seem to offend some, I am not entirely sure why. My experience with aquatic plants, hydroponics and plant keeping in general have led me to a rather, to be honest, simplistic view that I do not believe is at all inconsistent with EI. I certainly believe there is room for all kinds of interests and people in this hobby.

• Just because I mention nutrients does not mean I exclude the importance of lighting, CO2, filtration, circulation, water changes or good practices in general.

Back on topic:
I agree entirely with Philosophos, the algae is almost always a CO2/circulation issue. I also agree entirely with Philosophos, that based on what I see in the picture I do not think Excel is a good idea for algae control in this case.

I agree with Philosophos, dry fertilizers are quite simple, grant control and save the hobbyist a great deal of money. My experience tends lead me to recommend higher end of the EI spectrum; this seems to be offensive to some for reasons I simply cannot fathom.

Deiota, if you choose to use dry fertilizers I recommend the dosing schedule I posted above that I labeled my “real advice” as a good starting point. Others may give other advice that is the strength and weakness of the internet.

Biollante
 

Deiota

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Sep 25, 2009
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thanks for your help
can you convert your doses to ml instead of teaspoon? I don't use teaspoon so it makes my life complicated!
I should buy Fe, N, P, K (already have) and Mg right? in dry compounds you named it.
what about the micros? should I keep Tropica Nutrition+ (10ml day) or should I use Tropica Nutrition (normal without N and P)? or don't use a micro fertilizer at all?
should I buy anything else???
deiota
 

Philosophos

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Don't worry Biollante; you haven't offended me or anyone else I'm aware of. If you had offended me, I would have the decency to say something. Thankyou for the compliments.

Deiota, if you want to convert ml to teaspoons, just open up google and type:

x teaspoons in ml

where x is the quantity.

For micros, the popular 3 are TPN, CSM+B and Flourish Comprehensive.

TPN+ costs about the same as TPN. If you're up for learning how to figure out calculations for nutrient levels based on molar mass, then doing density conversions, I'd use it as a base for micros and top off the P and K, possibly the Fe.

Otherwise, stick the traces that I mentioned and use Biollante's dry dosing. Personally I'd increase the K2SO4 by a dose, but that's just me. I'm not sure how much you'd even notice a difference.

-Philosophos
 

Deiota

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Sep 25, 2009
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hello!
thanks for your reply.
I'll do the convertions you told me about!
I'll buy KNO3, KH2PO4 and MgSO4.7H2O.
about iron, I was wondering if I'll buy a seachem flourish iron fertilizer and also considering about excel... what do you think?
I have DIY CO2 so I don't know if I should buy Seachem Excel!
 

Philosophos

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Personally I'm partial to iron chelate (dtpa is best, edta if you can't get it) and CSM+B. Flourish Iron feeds you a line about ferric iron gluconate; it's really not any better than chelated. If anything, it breaks down faster and it's more expensive.

-Philosophos
 

Deiota

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Sep 25, 2009
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one question. bought the Fe test and the result was 0.... should I get worried?
 

Philosophos

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If you're not dosing it under these conditions, you don't even need a test kit to know that you're probably lacking enough. Some tap has a decent bit of iron, but not most in my experience. If you want accuracy from the test kit, calibrate it.

Get CSM+B or iron chelate when you can, flourish iron if you need to; it does work with regular dosing; it's just expensive compared to alternatives.

-Philosophos
 

Deiota

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Sep 25, 2009
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hi!
I have this problem in my tank...
can you please point the cause?
I started fertilizing 4ml Fe per day.


IMAG0068.jpg


IMAG0070.jpg


IMAG0072.jpg


IMAG0074.jpg
 

Philosophos

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Looks like a combination of N and K deficiency to me. Your ferts should be good enough to prevent that though. Would you mind refreshing me on what you're dosing? I'm not sure if you're still doing TPN+ or if you've switched to dry.

-Philosophos
 

Biollante

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Zero Iron?

Hi,

Zero iron seems unlikely. Are you using a high quality, calibrated test kit?

With the 10 milliliters a day you said you were dosing your iron will be on the order of .2 ppm iron.

What are you using to dose iron.

If you dose the ½ teaspoon CSM+B three times a week you will end up with a bit over 2 ppm iron and all the micros to support it, no need to test.

As long as you change 50% of the water each week, no testing is necessary.

My real advices is get dry fertilizers, dose on the high side and watch your aquarium, which is kind of what aquaria are for.

Minimum 50% weekly water change, on water change day, ¾ teaspoon GH Booster.

On water change day, third and sixth day:
• KN03 ½ teaspoon 3 times a week
• KH2P04 1/16 teaspoon 3 times a week
• K2SO4 1/8 teaspoon 3 times a week
• MgSO4.7H2O ½ teaspoon 3 times a week

On second, fourth and seventh day:
• CSM+B ½ teaspoon 3 times a week

Not only is it simpler, it is much cheaper.

This dosing is easily on the high side, keep the CO2 up, observe the aquarium over time if you choose you can adjust the amounts.

Biollante
 

Deiota

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Sep 25, 2009
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hello.
Im fertilizing 10ml TPN + and 10ml K and also 4 ml Fe. When I test and NO3 is higher than 10,I fertilize 10ml TPN (without N and P).
I also reduced the lightining time from 10h t 9h. I still have green sports on plants (but not on the glass anymore) but I still have the green hair algae and a few ball of black algae.
thanks
 

Philosophos

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Hmmm algae and deficiencies. What's your lighting level? It seems to be the one variable about your tank that I don't know, and I probably should. This could very well be a CO2 issue, or at least a contributing factor.

-Philosophos
 

Philosophos

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Wow, that's a lot of light for DIY. Try turning off the 2x30 for a while; your CO2 is likely a limiting nutrient, which can cause all kinds of problems.

-Philosophos
 

dutchy

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Most times DIY CO2 is the problem, since is does not deliver a constant supply of CO2. Inconsistent CO2 is a cause of algae.

Taking back your lights might help in reducing CO2 uptake a little bit, but I'm sure that it's not enough.
 

Deiota

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Sep 25, 2009
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are you talking about inconstant co2 on DIY mode, not "not enought"... right?
I thought about doing two bottles... but still are inconsistent....
do you think the anubia symptoms are not lack of iron or any other? or excess?
 

dutchy

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Going to two will give you more but the supply will still be inconsistent. About your Anubias: Philosophos already answered that a few posts back. He's very good at determining those kind of things.

Personally I just keep all my micros and macros present in abundance, so no deficiencies show up.