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Alage ID and Elimination

Discussion in 'Algae Control' started by The Rockster, Mar 7, 2009.

  1. The Rockster

    The Rockster Guru Class Expert

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    Hi,
    Can anyone id this algae, and have any ideas how to get rid of it?


    [​IMG]
     
  2. VaughnH

    VaughnH Lifetime Charter Member
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    It looks like blue green algae, cyanobacteria, which tends to show up where there is high light and a shortage of nitrates. When I have had it it is usually at the water-substrate line or below, and where the sunlight hits the tank. I'm not an algae expert, so I fully expect to be wrong here, but that's what it looks like to me.
     
  3. aquabillpers

    aquabillpers Lifetime Charter Member
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    It looks like that to me too.

    I've had BGA in low light, higher nitrate environments too. There are many theories about what causes it. Fortunately it is easily killed.

    Bill
     
  4. The Rockster

    The Rockster Guru Class Expert

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    And what is the best way to eradicate this bacteria?
     
  5. Gerryd

    Gerryd Plant Guru Team
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    Rock,

    Here is a link to algae id and some tips and remedies:

    Aquarium Algae ID (updated 16th Spet '08)

    If it is cyno, try reducing your light, increase your N dosing, and I have also had issues with BGA when my c02 was not right...........

    Also ensure that filter maintenance is up to snuff..........
     
  6. The Rockster

    The Rockster Guru Class Expert

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    Thankxs for the help, neighbor!!

    Don't really have lots of time to deal with this eyesore. Lately I have to deal with my companion parrots issues.........when it rains it pours! :D

    So I called my bro Gabe at Wattleys Discus. ( My go to Mentor!) He told me to get some Maracyn-Two and dose per instructions, and call it a day.
    He has NEVER steered me wrong yet............so that is what I will do!!!
    Appreciate your time and input!!!
     
  7. Tom Barr

    Tom Barr Founder
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    Well, M2 will kill it, EM is the generic antibiotic(Erythromyacin).

    But..........it does not prevent it from returning or addresses the issues of why you had it to begin with.

    I must be very strange to to old mythologist, I use algae as test kits.

    AB mentioned high organics and NO3, mostly in negleted tanks, non CO2 methods.

    In CO2 enriched tanks, that's much less rare, still occurs, but in general, it's a low NO3 issue mostly.

    So rather than popping a pill to fix something, a band aid, I suggest a good cleaning, filter etc, CO2 twaking a bit, and good water changes + dosing.

    This is not a disease, it's a symptom of a plant growth/care issue.
    So treat it like that and you will have nicer plants, easier time doing the hobby, and few algae issus. There are many species of algae that canno be treated with a pill, then what?

    Does anyone here claim to have gotten into this hobby to learn 101 ways to kill algae?

    I've not met that person yet in 30+ years. Well, marine folks.........but none in th plant hobby.

    So focus there.
    You will have a lot more success.
    Algae = something's up with my care routine and I need to look at adding enough nutrients consistently, check the CO2 real real good, etc.

    Regards,
    Tom Barr
     
  8. The Rockster

    The Rockster Guru Class Expert

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    Well...............seems to me the "pills", did not work. I was told to get the Maracyn-Two. After $30.00 and 48 pills, I can't even see a difference. I did notice that the main ingredient was Minocycline. So, I needed to purchase the Maracyn with the main ingredient erythromycin?

    I have soil substrate from AquariumPlants.com. How would I vac dirt?

    Also, the only time I ever rescaped, (I moved 3 plants), and then did a 40% water change, I noticed my fish gasping at the water surface. Some later died. I was told that was caused by an anaerobic disturbance from within the substrate. It was suggested that I do a 100 % water change. If that is true, how would I eliminate that situation? I have not rescaped since.

    I have 2 Eheim Pro II cannisters for a 72 gal tank. Both have spray bar kits. Is that enough circulation? Most all of the plants have movement in the tank.

    I also have a Diatom XL Filter, a Magnum 350, and a 18 watt, Turbo Twist UV. I usually run a water polisher filter and the UV monthly for a few hours (8 hours), after the weekly water change (40%). Would not this deter BGA?

    Anyway, I have read posts till my eyeballs have bled.......... and the only conclusions I can see assume is that there is no definite cure/correction for BGA, and a lot of folks give up the hobby because of algae problems.
     
  9. wilsar

    wilsar Prolific Poster

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    i have found that manual removal to be affective , using a small diameter air hose to carefully syphon BGA from the substrate/plants every two days for as long as it takes until the tank stabilizes and the plants begin to show signs of growth. i have had cyano outbreak in only a few tanks(start ups), even though i use the same substrate/lights/dosing in all my tanks. cyano seems to favour the tanks that are planted with slow growing plants and i have noticed my tanks with Vallisneria tend to skip this malady, maybe because Vallisneria has the ability to release nutrients back into the water column.
     
  10. VaughnH

    VaughnH Lifetime Charter Member
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    Many algae get their signal to grow from the presence of ammonia in the water. But, if the tank contains a lot of fast growing plants, the ammonia is consumed by the plants as fast as the fish produce it. That can be why vals would inhibit blue green algae.

    "Soil" substrates can vary from baked clay products, like the AquariumPlants substrate, which is not what most of us mean by "soil" substrate, to using garden soil rich in organic compounds, capped with a thin layer of sand. The latter will release lots of ammonia as the organics are broken down by bacteria in the substrate. As long as the ammonia is trapped in the substrate algae wont see it, but as soon as you disturb the substrate you release some of the ammonia into the water, and normally you get green water right afterwards. No plants can use ammonia fast enough to eliminate that ammonia quickly.

    And, I'm not at all sure that blue green algae is one that uses ammonia as a signal to start growing. Low nitrate concentration in the water will make it grow, but ammonia may not be relevant to it.
     
  11. The Rockster

    The Rockster Guru Class Expert

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    Thanks for the advice.............
    I followed Tom Barr's method of eliminating BGA. The blackout worked out great. Plus (I think) I realized what was wrong . I had been trying Algone, and PhosLock to combat algae, which was recommended by the lfs. (not at the same time). I had a computer problem, which affected my filter cleaning schedule, the result being I failed to clean one of the Eheim canisters for 5 months, although I do weekly w/cs and cleanings religiously. (Prior to these algae and BBA problems, I had a algae free tank for 2 years. The original problem started when my light bulbs degraded.)
    So for now, 14 days later, the tank is clear and there aren't any signs of recent CBA activity.

    Now I am trying to find a good way of cleaning the top of soil substrate, in areas where there aren't any plants. Gravel cleaners just make a mess. and stir up the soil.

    Also I have yet to find a good strategy for rescaping, without releasing any gasses into the water column. I'm facing the fact, that I may have to remove the fish from the tank, which I am hoping will not stress the fish too much. (Netting them could be a problem) Then I would do a 100 % w/c. Followed up by slowly acclimating the fish to the new tank H20, using the drip method.This would take all day. A suggestion I received, was to partially, agitate, the soil substrate on a weekly basis. I understand the logic of this, but wonder if this is necessary. I have never heard of anyone doing this with a planted tank.
    To whit, I am postponing rescaping plans, till I learn more about the fish deaths, the problem I had, and the solution to the above nightmare.
    Thankxs again!
     
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