Advice please (starting a new planted tank)

[Bongox3]

Hi everyone... my first post here... I posted the same on SCAPE, but thought I'd reach out to scapers internationally


I'm starting a new tank (40 gallon breeder)...As it will house mostly apistos and tetras, it'll be warm / soft water / low PH - with a section full of leaves and detritus (mostly catappa bark) on the substrate. It wont be a biotope, but will have some tannins (nothing over the top)...


Going to keep it simple with just rotala rotundifolia green, rotala sp Ceylon, a lil frog bit, and monte carlo... maybe adding more later (when I get restless)... Substrate will be 12" from the light source at its deepest, pressurized CO2, EI dosing, controsoil, etc....


1) This tank will be loaded with manzinita wood. As this wood will be pretty close to the light source (and in soft/warm water), I'm thinking most common moss wouldn't do well... would love to hear other's recommendations as to what to attach to these branches (willow moss is my favorite in cooler lower light tanks)... also attachment suggestions would be appreciated (tie, glue, etc)...


2) Also, I'm leaning towards the fluval fresh and planted 2.0... mostly due to it being able to dim and its light spread (also decent PAR)... its pricey though ($150 for a 36") also heard the light touch switch is a problem...so b4 I shell out the $$$ wanted to hear feedback from owners and/or what others feel about it...(not 100% sold on it yet...but seems, overall like a good light)...


All advice and dialogue is welcome.... advice with pics of examples, super welcome...!!!


Cheers, and thank you in advance!!!


Mike

 

[rajkm]

40B are generally 18" tall. 4" of substrate might be too much.


i use different mosses in my shrimp tank, flame, weeping, Christmas, fissidens 2 types and ricardia all of which I like.


i use Fluval plant and fresh 2,0 and had a lot of issues with the button. I purchased the Wifi controller which is easier to manage. though par is good, does not have much Red to help with redder plants. I also had to return the unit one time because water went in though they have water proofing and I requested them to fully test the unit they were going to send, they took a week but the button now work very well.

 

[Bongox3]

Thank you Rajkm...!!! I'm only putting plants on the back and sides, which will be somewhat sloped, and higher...the front is inert sand, somewhat covered by almond leaves, bark, etc... I wasn't sure if moss would do well in my water conditions (soft, warm, acidic, and high light intensity due to higher tank elevation)... but prefer the look of moss... sorry to hear about ur fluval experience....as far as the LED, in that price range, would u suggest finnex, current, etc...as a better option? I'm afraid I'm not too knowledgeable about lighting options out there... had used finnex and BML in the past with success... but got ripped off buying the first current satellite thinking it could grow plants effectively...

 

[rajkm]

I mosses keep my shrimp tanks at 1.5 dKH or less so quite soft, never measured PH in these tanks. Temp wise I really don't have a heater on that tank so room temp which can be anywhere from 65F to 75F depending on seasons. The light on those are medium intensity.


There is always some moss in my main tank which max reaches 82F. This tank is high light. The KH in this tank is similar (1.5) and PH has been in the 5.5 or lower range with CO2.


As far as commercially available LEDs go, if you get lucky, Fluval with its dimming feature is best, however if you dont want dimming feature, I prefer 2x Finnex Planted+ (not 24x7) since it allows you to space them out and has the 660nm leds. You can raise them if its too much light. Current Pro+ are quite good too and generally almost as same as Fluval in PAR.

 

[Dennis Singh]

For higher light bryophytes n liverworts, here's worth mentioning, accommodated by co2


java spring aka mini weeping


mini pellia


any fissidens will thrive


taiwan, java, mini types, vietnam, spiky


there are so many just naming a few.

 

[Dennis Singh]

Glue it all depends on the moss. Some r sensitive to glue n if u don't have good conditions there goes the moss.


lighting will be good. If u want to go a tier above I have a mic Mol for sale, ur local too so...

 

[Dennis Singh]

A key tip if u get a good key grip of healthy Monte Carlo going ull have lesser algae to deal with. Any good foreground for that matter have u noticed a tank with a good healthy foreground have a lot of algae?

 

[Bongox3]

Awesome answers!!! Thank you both!!! Can you tell me more about the Mic Mol? Sorry, I would pm you, but haven't posted enough here to activate messaging...regardless, thank you bigtime for the suggestions and advice - will check everything out once off work

 

[Dennis Singh]

pros


dimmable


timed


bright


different spectrums


sleek design


cons


not gonna get extreme reds i.e.. pantanal


gonna get reds i.e. ludwigia red, AR's easier stuff


cannot manually turn it on and off, its all in the program you've set


the controller sucks


I love the light myself except the cons mentioned, but I'm all out t5's now, if i was into collecting, this would be a collectors for me


I'll cut you a good deal too, retails $200 without shipping

 

[Bongox3]

Dennis (aka strungout).... fantastic light, awesome meeting you, and thank you soooooo much for the extras and advice... thank you bigtime!!!

 

[Dennis Singh]

enjoy it man, but i don't see any pictures here???>....

 

[Bongox3]

Work in progress... got a long way to go Love the light!!!

 

[Dennis Singh]

that piece of manzy driftwood is fire.

 

[Bongox3]

Thank you, it's one large piece and two smaller pieces joined to it....