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Advice on new 100G tank

Discussion in 'Are you new to aquatic plants? Start here' started by omartinez, Aug 29, 2011.

  1. omartinez

    omartinez Prolific Poster

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    Hello,

    I currently have this 55G tank for almost 2 years

    [​IMG]

    It is my first tank, it have many mistakes and errors but it is a continued learning experience, i'm still a rookie but i feel ready for the next step (a bigger tank :) )

    This one is setup with Professional CO2 and 6x32watts T8 DIY light.

    The dimension i've in mind will be 60"x24"x18", my current tank just give me 12" of depth and that is not enough for a good aquascape so this one will have 24" :). I will make the tank myself with the help of various friends.

    I've a lot of question and advice to ask, so I will start one step at a time.

    My first question will be related to light. How much do you guys recommend? I plan to have them hang from the ceiling, if you have some places to buy online where i can see some good (cheap) ones, i will be thanksfull.
     
  2. omartinez

    omartinez Prolific Poster

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    so, no help? no suggestions? :(
     
  3. Jim Miller

    Jim Miller Lifetime Charter Member
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    I'm no expert but just a comment on lighting. Lights are conveniently available in ~36" and ~48" lengths. A 60" tank will require some creativity in lighting if using flourescents and may limit your off-the-shelf choices.

    Jim
     
  4. Gerryd

    Gerryd Plant Guru Team
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    Hi,

    If you could share some of your goals and such that would be helpful. Most plants can be grown using T8 or T12 easily. It is other conditions that need to match the light level.

    What type of fish do you want? Are there special needs there? Do they eat plants? Many will nibble for sure. Do you want high/fast or slower growth? Stems, rosettes, etc? Are you looking to do a bio-tope?

    Sorry to be a pest but there are way too many lighting types and fixtures to simply recommend the 'best'. Each application is different. Try and do something that offers FLEXIBILITY if possible. Can you use less bulbs or control certain bulbs via switches, etc.

    If you indeed mount the fixture so it can be adjusted in height and/or depth this will be better in the long run. Or a dimmer system will also work.

    Floating plants and cloth netting can also be used if the light is too high...

    Remember that light is what drives plant growth and nutrient demand. Keep that in mind if you like MH fixtures :)

    Based on your goals and/or scaping the current fixture may even work...
     
    #4 Gerryd, Sep 7, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2011
  5. omartinez

    omartinez Prolific Poster

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    i've barbs (severeal types) right now, I may change to cardumen-type fish dont' know yet. My fish dont eat plants, well i've a chinese algae eater but that one just eat algae :).

    Lets say that i want medium to high growth and i have some aquascape on mind but havent decided on the type of plants yet, i want to setup the equipment first then start designing the scape.

    I know exactly what you mean, i have looked a lot of lights lately :). my plan is to have T5HO and hang it from the ceiling, the fixture i've in mind, it's a 48" 4x54W T5HO fixture used on hydroponics.
     
  6. omartinez

    omartinez Prolific Poster

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    The stand for my tank is on the works, it will have a metal base covered with wood painted black, the tank will be open top with a metal bar going the lenght of the stand at 50" to hang the light.

    Talking of lights I'm undecided about that, i have no experience with hanging lights and their coverage. Well this is my first big proyect over 55Galons so i know little of everything to say the least. I want high/good light to grow some carpet plant; a local friend of mine, that is also member of this forum, will help me meassure my par when everything is setup, in the meantime i can't decide between a 48" 4x54W and a 60" 6x80W fixture, both with T5HO and 6500k bulbs

    the 60" is the right size for my tank, which is 60" long, but with 6x80W tubes at 480w total, my electrical bill will cry :D, I can always remove one or two tubes.

    The 48" just have 4x54W at 216W total, more acceptable to my bill, but this one is a little short for my aquarium and this is were i lag experience and need advice, if i hang the fixture will i be able to compensate by adjusting the height of the fxture?

    also on another subject, an important one too, filtration. I've read all over the forum about closed loop filtration, but havent found what really is, how it works, not even some graphics. I'm currently shooting to have a W/D but want to keep my options open.
     
  7. Biollante

    Biollante Lifetime Charter Member
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    An Open OR Closed Case


    Hi,

    Closed loop filtration generally means canister filters. :)


    If by W/D, you mean wet, dry filtration, or open loop, usually with a sump, I would almost always pick the wet, dry over canisters.:gw


    Biollante

     
  8. omartinez

    omartinez Prolific Poster

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    Yes, i mean a wet/dry filter, i've hear good reviews about them and i will use it with a fluval 305 as backup/additional filter. I will DIY the w/d and i'm looking for a good design/graphic for a planted tank w/d but havent found anything. I know i have to seal the entrance chamber of the w/d but as this is my first wet/dry i need more ideas (even with the amount of sections and media to use) than the ones i've see for reef.

    Aside for the tanks of pepetj (another forum user also from my country) this will be the lastest planted/aqauascaped tank on my country that we know of.
     
  9. omartinez

    omartinez Prolific Poster

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    well in the light fixture department I've come to this personal choice

    http://www.aquaticlife.com/products/286#1

    I like very much the aquaticlife fixture, i havent decided on the 48" or the 60", of course my tank is 60" and a fixture of that side by logic is better yet i see that both fixture have the same 48" long tubes so what is the advantage for me to choose the 60" over the 48" one (aside from price of course)?
     
  10. Biollante

    Biollante Lifetime Charter Member
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    Lost This...


    Hi,

    Sorry I lost track of this thread.:eek:


    There is nothing wrong with combining filtration type. I run a fair number of tanks where occasionally I temporarily augment the filtration with canister filters. I find during the summer my outdoor[SUP]1[/SUP] tanks sometimes need help.


    There really are not a lot of rules regarding wet dry filters, I still have a couple around that are little more than buckets with rocks and stainless steel dish scrubbers[SUP]2[/SUP].:rolleyes:


    While I prefer the sealed[SUP]3[/SUP] compartment concept, it is not a requirement. Perhaps the biggest problem people have with open loop filters in planted tanks is the loss of CO[SUB]2[/SUB]. The trick is to inject CO[SUB]2[/SUB] in solute after the filter and make sure the return is not close to the intake physically or functionally. Among the advantages[SUP]4[/SUP] of an open loop, system is great gas exchange. :rolleyes:



    Biollante
    [SUP]1[/SUP]”I define “outdoor tanks” as any of my tanks not in air-conditioned space. The month of August was brutal, I needed to augment filtration/circulation or move the tank indoors or when that was not possible remove critters and plants.
    [SUP]2[/SUP]Plastic scrubbers are okay, but stainless steel scrubbers are darn near as good as the high bio-media. http://www.foodservicedirect.com/product.cfm/p/177205/Update-International-Stainless-Steel-Pot-Scrubber-SSP-100.htm.
    [SUP]3[/SUP]Were it well sealed it would be “closed-loop.” In most cases the term “sealed” is rather loosely used, the buckets I mentioned earlier are a good example, in as much as there is a cover and the water enters via tube cut in the top it is sealed.
    [SUP]4[/SUP]Open loop systems do not compete for as many of the system resources as closed loop systems, particularly oxygen, in fact they maximize oxygenation .



     
  11. omartinez

    omartinez Prolific Poster

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    I'm doing the follow up of my wet/dry design here

    http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/9149-another-wet-dry-question

    later on i will get to the point were i will need sugestion on how to combine both (the canister and wetdry) filters....

    i was really confused about the closed loop/open loop concept..thanks for clearing that up.
     
  12. Biollante

    Biollante Lifetime Charter Member
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    You Are Welcome


    Hi,

    I like Jerrybforl’s system;:) I would probably add a low-flat container with lots of evenly spaced drain holes under the intake to the sump.[SUP]1[/SUP]


    I also agree with Pat W, I like and use that foam as well, it will hold up better and add good biological and some mechanical filtration as well.

    The bio-media Jerrybforl uses is no doubt technologically superior but the stainless dish scrubbers for the difference in price work well.:cool:



    Biollante
    First picture top http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8939-Step-by-Step-Sump-Build?p=72765#post72765



     
  13. omartinez

    omartinez Prolific Poster

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    updating progress...

    Light : going for LED, just confirming/reading about what/how much do i need....any recomendations?
     
  14. omartinez

    omartinez Prolific Poster

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    how much leds should I use? 72 3W leds (bridgelux) on 3 heatsinks with 60 degree optics is too much?
     
  15. shoggoth43

    shoggoth43 Lifetime Charter Member
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    Unfortunately there's no real way to know without getting some PAR info on them and without knowing how hard you're going to drive them. I've seen rigs with 9 degree optics on 2" spacing. ( well pictures of them anyway ) I can only assume he never ran it full tilt but throttled it WAY back. OTOH, he did a lot of clam tanks and things that liked light.

    One thing about LEDs is that you tend to add more for coverage and to even out the intensity vs. adding more power, if that makes sense. As a rough guess, I would look at a similar rig for a coral tank and then work your way down from there. How high up are you planning on hanging the fixture?

    -
    S

     
  16. omartinez

    omartinez Prolific Poster

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    the hanging bar of the cabinet will be at 30" from water surface...so i can adjust let say 1" to 20"+- from water surface.

    i see the point on what you say...i can dimm or adjust hanging level

     
  17. omartinez

    omartinez Prolific Poster

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    well, another update...

    thanks to pepetj, a member of this forum also, i'm getting a bigger tank, this one 140 galons (72x18x26"high). thanks pal

    i got the tank and i'm waiting for my stand...

    meanwhile i got a question :

    for internal flow on the aquarium what koralia model should i use?

    also i will be using CPR CS100DX overflow and it says it is 800GPH using 1" pipe, that is ok? I'm planning to use a Hyperflow 20 pump.

    I'm still undecided if i need to add a canister or not, also i still need sugestions on how to plumb the spray bar
     
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