Update
I changed the photoperiod to 7 hours instead of 8 and run Co2 now for only 6 hours and 5 minutes. So 5 minute CO2 build up before lights on and then off for last hour of light. I want to reduce stress to the fish. Tetras always seemed fine but I noticed over the months my ottos less active from CO2 stress. If its too high they will all go to the top some of them mouths rite at the water line. A little less and they are just inactive and stay on the back sides against the glass. During the first hour of CO2 build up and the hour when it goes off they are very active sometimes swimming around and round in a big school. I still have like 20 of them.
I got 4 plecos but 3 of them died. Caught the last one and seemed like he was about to go to so tossed him in the cube tank. Also got a SAE. He seems fine, looks like a big otto but always very active. Again, I think CO2 stress issues. Lowering the photoperiod/CO2 on time seemed the easier fix. When I adjust the needle valve on the GLA the change seems too much. Its not like I can just change the PH drop in .1 increments. I can see the bubbles coming out of the tube before being sucked into the return line and the change is too much trying to move the needle valve on the GLA reg.
Green slime algae (BGA) has finally gone. The petstore owner at Fantastic Fins mentioned he would only see this stuff when a tank doing a mini-cycle. I was using lots of H2O2
but stopped to see if that was the problem. Cant find any BBA in there but have been dealing with a bit of fine green hair algae. It comes out pretty easy with a tooth brush though. If it starts to get worse I may try thinning out the overall biomass in there a little more.
Not much change to the scape. I went to town with scissors a few weeks ago and it came out pretty nice. Hate to lose all the fluffy tops but dont want to spend 3 hours strait doing maintenance. Just trimmed again, just cutting tops and took some pics. I did replant tops of Kimberly and Ammania Ped. both which are doing very nice now for me Rotala macranda is again very deep red. Ive been keeping the plants next to it trimmed down so think that maybe the main issue is that plant needs its CO2.
Dosing change just a little less phophate twice a week about 1/4 tsp + 1/8 tsp instead of 1/2 tsp. Micros dosed 4 times a week but only using DTPA iron and Manganese as mentioned in earlier post. About to try full trace dosing again to see If I can see changes. Ive been letting water changes go now 7-10 days usually 60-70 percent.
I changed the photoperiod to 7 hours instead of 8 and run Co2 now for only 6 hours and 5 minutes. So 5 minute CO2 build up before lights on and then off for last hour of light. I want to reduce stress to the fish. Tetras always seemed fine but I noticed over the months my ottos less active from CO2 stress. If its too high they will all go to the top some of them mouths rite at the water line. A little less and they are just inactive and stay on the back sides against the glass. During the first hour of CO2 build up and the hour when it goes off they are very active sometimes swimming around and round in a big school. I still have like 20 of them.
I got 4 plecos but 3 of them died. Caught the last one and seemed like he was about to go to so tossed him in the cube tank. Also got a SAE. He seems fine, looks like a big otto but always very active. Again, I think CO2 stress issues. Lowering the photoperiod/CO2 on time seemed the easier fix. When I adjust the needle valve on the GLA the change seems too much. Its not like I can just change the PH drop in .1 increments. I can see the bubbles coming out of the tube before being sucked into the return line and the change is too much trying to move the needle valve on the GLA reg.
Green slime algae (BGA) has finally gone. The petstore owner at Fantastic Fins mentioned he would only see this stuff when a tank doing a mini-cycle. I was using lots of H2O2
but stopped to see if that was the problem. Cant find any BBA in there but have been dealing with a bit of fine green hair algae. It comes out pretty easy with a tooth brush though. If it starts to get worse I may try thinning out the overall biomass in there a little more. Not much change to the scape. I went to town with scissors a few weeks ago and it came out pretty nice. Hate to lose all the fluffy tops but dont want to spend 3 hours strait doing maintenance. Just trimmed again, just cutting tops and took some pics. I did replant tops of Kimberly and Ammania Ped. both which are doing very nice now for me
Rotala macranda is again very deep red. Ive been keeping the plants next to it trimmed down so think that maybe the main issue is that plant needs its CO2. Dosing change just a little less phophate twice a week about 1/4 tsp + 1/8 tsp instead of 1/2 tsp. Micros dosed 4 times a week but only using DTPA iron and Manganese as mentioned in earlier post. About to try full trace dosing again to see If I can see changes. Ive been letting water changes go now 7-10 days usually 60-70 percent.
