210 Redo (or didn't I just do this 3 years ago?)

H

Htomassini

Guest
So after 3 years and an aquarium store set up later, it was time to redo my 210.

This is what it used to look like 3 years ago:

1-IMG_0642.JPG


This is what it looked like now...

(Yes I know, I own a fish store and this my tank at home) Its like Carrol Shelby having a rust bucket at home on jack stands, painted in 2 tone primer)
( or what neighborhoods in the south look like)

01-DSC01731.JPG



1st step get the GTFO.

(No, your dirty minded people, Get The Fish Out)

08-DSC01738.JPG


And start cleaning;

11-DSC01741.JPG


This is will be a lower light, lower maintenance tank, so I went with crypts and anubias and dwarf sag. I used Seachem Onyx Sand for the bottom layer and Mr Aqua soil for the rest.

14-DSC01744.JPG


18-DSC01748.JPG


19-DSC01749.JPG


22-DSC01752.JPG


23-DSC01753.JPG


29-DSC01759.JPG


31-DSC01761.JPG


My preferred method of filling a tank, putting all of those bags to good use.

36-DSC01766.JPG


This was taken as soon at the tank filled up.

39-DSC01769.JPG


My fish (with the exception of the clown loaches) are all in.

46-DSC01776.JPG


Lights at almost a foot above water and I am running 2 x 80w hot5
This is 24hrs after fill, no clarifier was used. I have a w/d and my new fluval FX5 which I love.

47-DSC01777.JPG


48-DSC01778.JPG
 

Gerryd

Plant Guru Team
Lifetime Member
Sep 23, 2007
5,623
22
38
South Florida
Henry,

Glad you finally found time to do this :)

Perhaps some java narrow and/or trident? I can hook you up with a starter kit :)

It looks great. Perhaps use some moss or small pennywort to help hide the locline and filter tubes?

Can we get some PAR readings?
 
H

Htomassini

Guest
Thanks. Par in the 30's to 40 at substrate

I have Xmas miss where the plastic wrap is. Tank is at 84.5 f so few mosses will survive.

I have Balansae crypt in background.




Henry Tomassini
www.theplantedaquariumstore.com
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
H

Htomassini

Guest
Question, what is the highest amount of par anubias can handle? I want to put more of them higher up on the wood but I'm afraid of nuking them..

Thanks


Henry tomassini
www.theplantedaquariumstore.com
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 

Gerryd

Plant Guru Team
Lifetime Member
Sep 23, 2007
5,623
22
38
South Florida
Henry,

I have a.coffeefolia at > 125 mmoles and is fine so far after 2-3 weeks.

I have a.petite and a.minima at > 175 mmoles and no issues either. These have been high light for many months as they are in the trees close to the surface.

As long as there are no deficiencies in c02 or other nutes, they seem fine...

How much PAR did you want to provide the anubias?
 
H

Htomassini

Guest
So my arch enemy algea that I struggle with has returned to haunt me. GSA no problem, brush no problem, but brown crud that lays on leaves and must be rubbed off is here to annoy me. I assume that this is diatoms. It sticks to leaves. I am dosing daily and use ro water reconstituted with alkaline buffer and equilibrium. Temp is high in tank at 84f. Light in the 30 to 40 par at substrate. Ei dosing. Once a week wc.

Any suggestions. ?


Henry Tomassini
www.theplantedaquariumstore.com
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Gerryd

Plant Guru Team
Lifetime Member
Sep 23, 2007
5,623
22
38
South Florida
Hey Henry,

Give me a call at home...want to talk cars....:) good stuff for you, no worries...

Yes, sounds like diatoms...I know my ottos did an excellent natural job of this in little over a week and I had it BAD, all over 40 anubias plants, etc.

All over my new 57 and 304 of them did away with it in several days...

You redid the substrate, yes? Well, is close to a new tank cycle :)
 
H

Htomassini

Guest
Here are pics taken today. So I had to cap the MrAqua soil with black gravel as all of my fish (with the exception of the ottos, rainbows and sharks) have been sifting the substrate so much that they have been clogging my filters with the ground up substrate. I had this problem before with the ada stuff till i capped it with gravel. Should have remembered this when I redid the tank. I am running 2x 80w hot5's on the tank. Mosses never made it with temp in the 83-84 range. I am growing out the blue JD's to take back to the store, when Miryam got them they were too small for anyone to notice. High temp, good GH and good protein food 2x a day makes fish grow out well in my tank. Also note the two GEO's.

Wish crypts would grow quicker....

02-DSC02097.JPG


01-DSC02096.JPG


04-DSC02101.JPG


08-DSC02112.JPG


07-DSC02105.JPG


13-DSC02126.JPG


12-DSC02119.JPG


16-DSC02141.JPG


09-DSC02115.JPG


05-DSC02103.JPG
 
H

Htomassini

Guest
On a side note, I fixed the issue I had with my camera a SONY NEX3 with the 18-55mm lens. I used to get a lot of distortion at the corners of the tank ( fish eye lens). So in searching for a macro lens to use at the store, I read that this is an issue with that lens. So I have been using the 35mm macro lens and it gives excellent shots. Note that the lines of the tank are perfectly straight. I can see why people on forums have said this is a great all around lens.

(btw I am far from an amateur photographer. I am only learning this stuff as I go along, so please feel free to educate me!)
 
H

Htomassini

Guest
210 redo

Here are the lates pics. Playing with the right camera settings seems to be my biggest challenge. I am experimenting with aperture and wb trying to get the most natural looking pics without photoshop.

I am dosing ei daily, co2 at approx 21ppm, main lights of 40par at substrate on for about 10 hrs. I still have have some brownish dust on anubias that the ottos are not touching. I can rub most of if off the leaves though. If I could get that squared away, ill be happy. btw, the fish stress at higher co2, so this is the limit. I have not tried dosing with excel. I have since added swords flanking the sides and trying out some cardinal plants. I have increased the lighting from 2 80w hot5 to 4. The lights are 12" above tank. I also run 2 Ecoxotic magenta/white led strips to add some color, they produce 2-4 par at substrate so I have these on before the main lights go on and after.

12-DSC02184.JPG


10-DSC02188.JPG


01-DSC02201.JPG


04-DSC02198.JPG


08-DSC02190.JPG


09-DSC02192.JPG

13-DSC02182.JPG

11-DSC02186.JPG


07-DSC02193.JPG
 

Gerryd

Plant Guru Team
Lifetime Member
Sep 23, 2007
5,623
22
38
South Florida
Henry,

You got some great fish there my friend..

A suggestion or two...

1. Your c02 limitation may be forced by insufficient 02. I know you have a sump and skimming, but you also have a nu-clear canister which will retain c02. You also have some big beautiful fish... Perhaps a small powerhead or one of your loclines for some surface ripple during the c02 period? This may enable you to push the c02 a bit more...I know this was one of my issues lol

2. Perhaps a bit more light to get the plants growing a bit faster? Once growing well, I find is easier to back off light and slow the growth.

I love your fish. They are so big compared to mine, it cracks me up! And the colors are gorgeous...
 

jerrybforl

Lifetime Members
Lifetime Member
Mar 7, 2010
1,034
3
38
44
Miami Beach, FL.
Those are some really nice fish you got there Henry! I used my Magnum 350 with a micron cartridge in it plus ottos to solve my diatom issue. Haven't had a problem in months!

I think another issue with your CO2 is that you don't have enough plants in there. I would also point your loclines more toward the surface to get a nice ripple. Maybe a little heavier lighting will help some as well.

You have a nice piece of manzy in there, but to me, it looks too centered. Maybe slide it to one side or the other, and use a smaller piece on the opposite side to accent it. Just my two cents.

One last thing...just keep doing your 50% WCs, and the diatoms will start to be less and less. Hope this helps...
 
H

Htomassini

Guest
Thanks gents. Well I no longer have the nuclear.

I have a new eshopps wet dry with two bio areas

I run a magnum for polishing
I also run a fluval fx5

I have some surface ripple

I have increased recently (about 2 weeks ago) my lighting and I do have less diatom.

Discus can be known to stress over co2. Remember I run my tank at 84f so at that temp o2 concentration is lower. Also all my plants are slower growth so they will never pearl like fast growing stems or ground cover.

Anubias are growing a leaf a week so I guess that's pretty good.

I think I will run two more bulbs on the lamp and see what happens.

I can't move the wood because of the braces. The wood rises out of the tank btw

Also it would require breaking the tank down to take the wood out. It was screwed toghether in placed.

It was a pain getting it there.

One of the things that's helps a lot is good water flow during day.

Let me know on suggestions.




Henry tomassini
www.theplantedaquariumstore.com
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD