New Tank Build Thread

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Gerryd

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Penetrations - as they are called

Hey all,

Sooooooo, after speaking at length with Chris at CtC about many things, I think the following bulkhead placement or penetrations as they are known (aka) will work fairly well to keep them from view..some is due to the construction of the stand as well.

Intakes.

I wil place these in the middle of the tank front to back. 1.5" bulkheads require a 2.5" hole if I remember correctly. I would then go towards the middle of the tank about 18" from either end. This would provide about 34" or so of length between them.. I intend to use a flatter type strainer to help hide them.

Outlets.

I will place these approx 14" or so from each corner measuring front/back to middle and side to middle if that makes any sense. This will place these OUTSIDE of the intakes. Each intake would be paired with 2 outlets. The outlet ports would all be OUTSIDE of the intakes...

All the bulkheads would be on an 'island' of sorts. Since I will be able to walk AROUND the tank, I am thinking that an island or center mounted scape may be something to think about..At least I think will be a good balance..and easier to scape around and much less visible.

I will use schedule 80 bulkheads as they are of a much higher quality.

Using the 4 outlets plus some loc-line I should be able to control the flow to all areas of the tank. I am thinking simply using a split nozzle setup on each outlet. These two nozzles per outlet could then be directed anywhere and easily hidden undergravel for instance..

From this vantage loc line can easily be used to cover all areas with flow as needed..

Using some sort of pulsing powerheads could be a lot of fun here.......

Each outlet line would be controlled by a high quality ball valve to control flow and shutoff. I am thinking of incorporating brass into the plumbing. Using say high quality brass for instance is much better than a plastic ball valve. Or the nice flat handle 1/4-1/2 turns are also very nice.

Something like on this page:

http://www.apollovalves.com/products/products.asp?sub=16

More to come..
 
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Gerryd

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J,

Would love any thoughts you have on the project so far...

You have done some very nice scapes and did a lot to hide all the hardware..

I want to do this right if possible...
 

Gerryd

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Intake drain assembly

Hey,

So doing some planning on the intake plumbing and think I have a fairly solid plan so far:

The first assembly goes from EACH bulkhead and will eventualy connect to a horizontal 2" drain pipe.

1.5" bulkhead = 1.5inch Gate Knife Blade Valve = 1.5x2.0" bushing = 2" sweep elbow

This would feed the 1.5 intakes to a 2" pipe. The blade valve is much better than a normal ball valve and will reduce stress on the bulkhead when shutting on or off. I will have sufficient room under the cabinet to orient so that they face front or to the side for easy access/leverage. I am looking for a gate valve but can't find 1.5" yet on the site...the sweep elbows are much gentler than than a 90 and less space than 2x45s..

Alternately, I may use a 2" gate valve and simply use 2" components earlier. But the 1.5 will be a bit lighter and should be sufficiently sized.

The valves I would use are here on this page:

http://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?product=PVC-Valves-Gate

Product 0501-15 is the 1.5 blade valve that would be below each bulkhead. It is also a union. I am going to use the 1" gate valves (product 100-605) for everything south of the cone distributors..these will allow for very nice fine control....

The horizontal 2" pvc will be FLEX. I will use 2 x T on this length of pipe. Each T outlet would have a 2" cone distributor with 5x1" ports. This would provide 10 x 1" inlet ports for filters, pumps, drains, etc.

Here is the link to the cones I am babbling about:

http://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?product=PVC-Manifolds-Distributors

And here are the sweep elbows:

http://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi

This should use fewer components and be fairly flexible. The intake flow should be sufficient for my needs. No bottlenecks and easy to shut off if needed.

Now to plan the c02 as the filtration will be easy to hook up 2 Eheims..

Here are some nice clear intake strainers that I can most likely reduce in size..am searching for these now. I know they come in different lengths..:)

Here is a black one but I would use a slip fitting. I think I actually have one or two of these laying around:

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-5-Aquarium-Bulkhead-Intake-Screen-Strainer-MPT-/200514456042
Later...
 
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Gerryd

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c02 diffusion

So, I think I will use two external powerheads for flow and c02 distribution..

I can feed the pumps from the cone assemblies...

I can make them needle wheel either DIY or OEM and inject c02 to both....

These would feed 2 of the 4 outlets with the canisters feeding the other 2.

I like the danner models here:

http://www.marinedepot.com/Danner_M...ter_Pumps-Danner_Mfg.-DN1159-FIWPSBUF-vi.html

I think using two of these will work very well. I have to think about the sizes to use. A matched pair would be nice with the nice gate valves to control flow.....

I know there are several other models of these as I have been reef forum surfing lol

You can learn a lot over on the dark side....:)

More research to determine the model, but should be fairly simply to plug into the system. I have found the mag drives to be quiet and reliable in the past. Not sure of this model with the venturi and special impeller but I think it will be fine.

More later. I am even filling my shopping cart over at flexpvc.com....

I will publish a list of all hardware soon as I finalize the lists....
 

Gerryd

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Lighting

Just to be complete and have a section for each major component:

The light fixture is the 72" model here:

http://www.aquaticlife.com/t5ho_six_lamp/index.html

I currently have it mounted about 9" above the water...It has a great spread with the 12 bulb configuration.

I am using only 8 bulbs now a combination of guiesemann daylight and aquaflora. 2 of each per side and staggered.

I like the light a lot and think it was worth every penny....

CTC is going to fabricate a light bar for me and will powder coat it to match the stand. It will be mounted on the back and run up the back corners. The light bar itself will be centered in the middle of the tank. The light bar will be 28" above the water surface at 78". This should provide plenty of flexibility as I will have to raise it a bit to get a better spread for the wider tank. I will also most likely use more bulbs as well so may have to raise it a bit for that as well.

I am aiming for about 50-60 micromoles at the substrate....that is what I have now and is working well so far...
 
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Gerryd

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Substrate

will most likely be ADA amazonia as I am a plug and play type of person. I have enough to do w/o mixing my own soil...

Just need to determine how much I need..Tom is suggesting some serious sloping ideas...:)

Not much else to say here :) a relief to you all I am sure lol
 

Gerryd

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Filtration and flow

Filtration will most likely be 2 x Eheim pro 3 model 2180 with the builtin heaters. This is in case I go discus or move to cooler climes...I need flexibility :)

Additional flow will be provided by the twin external pumps for c02. These will provide flow even when c02 if off.

So, this setup should be fairly simple to hook up and maintain...

Later.
 

Gerryd

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Jim,

TB suggested a WD for this. However, I don't want ANYTHING hanging on the tank at all. No hardware of any type at all. So, a CPR overflow is out of the question. CTC also suggested one but I want just the bottom drilled...I am happy with a closed loop....

Only exception MAY be a wireless vortech just in case I need it...........

On the other hand a wet/dry with trickle towers is a great long term filter and easy to maintain.. Aesthetics is simply taking precedence here...

But the Eheims will be very silent (important), flexible and easy to maintain....

So far so good.
 
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Gerryd

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Permission

So, I asked official permission at the leasing office today to increase the size of my aquarium.. I had put it off a bit as I am afraid that they may say no for some reason. Told them it has a steel stand, 5 yr warrantee, etc. Renters insurance paid in full :)

I am going to sweat this a bit as you just never know how they may decide....I provide new dimensions, volume, and expected weight gain...

New management alone can do you in.

I am thinking positive though..I pointed out I have been here for 6 years with this tank and no issues..

But....keep your fingers and fins crossed...

Thanks.
 

dutchy

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Hi Gerry,

I think you chose a nice tank size. Depth is more important than heigth.

Good choices on parts like lights, filtration etc. Seems to be close to my setup. The only difference is My CO2 reactors are inline. With two filters, two reactors it's efficient enough with additional flow. No need to use extra pumps just to drive CO2. Less energy consumption and less noise.

I never told anyone I'm having a tank in my apartment. The more they know the more trouble.

Great topic. Post some pics when You get the tank.
 

Gerryd

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Hi dutchy,

Thanks. I have experimented a lot over the last several years with the major components and have some good experience with what works well for me and my goals..Just taking some of the experience that YOU all have had and tried to incorporate lessons learned :)

I like the size as well.

Re: the apt and the leasing office. I would rather them know than they drive by on their rounds and see 4-6 people moving a large tank. I explained the size/volume/weight difference and up to them.

I would rather keep c02 and filtration separate....

The c02 pumps will be very quiet and can also be used to provide additional flow....

I may buy an MP40 wireless version in case I need surface or better effects of flow, but am I doubt I would need it. the whole point of this is to hide as much as possible....

I am investigating a wet/dry with an external scupper box on one end. I will post a pic later so you can see what I mean.

This would be on the end closer to the wall and would feed a large sump and trickle filter under the cabinet should I go this route...

Tom has mentioned that the reality of hiding drilled bulkheads proves harder than planned.. Since he has a good deal of experience with larger and show tanks, as well as client wishes, I am taking this decision quite seriously.

I personally like sumps and wet/drys but I really don't want ANYTHING visible in terms of hose, pipes, etc. Even if they are clear...

Decisions, decisions.

If they say no, then I was right to ask in the first place as it WOULD have been an issue. They could force me to give it up which would be a disaster..their building they can do what they want...



I have been here for 6 years and no issues with my 180 so I think they may take that into account. Plus apt insurance will cover any water damage or other...
 
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Gerryd

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Yep 3/4 is the max. I was actually looking at the MP60 since I am going insane with spending....they go to a higher thickness and I was thinking this may be better long term...

I like the wireless aspect and they are really cool. I sold my MP20 to dutchy as I did not need it..I though it too little for my tank..but they are the bomb..work well and less obtrusive than koralias....or other PH...
 

Gerryd

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Jim Miller;64103 said:
I think you're going to love those proportions!

jim

Jim,

Assuming all goes well and I actually pull the trigger.....

It was Tom's suggestion to go lower.. I had already wanted to go wider but had originally 'compromised' at 30" depth but kept the 24" height.

Now it will be lower and deeper...Had some company over today and was explaining the dimensions and the rimless look and how you would be able to walk around it and they were totally behind doing whatever it took/cost :)

I agree 100% on all counts..
 

Gerryd

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Filtration Change?

Hey all,

Well this is harder than I thought.....:)

I am having an e-mail conversation with Tom re: filtration and I think I may change the filtration and c02 a bit.

1). Do NOT drill the tank anywhere...bit of a change, no?

2). Use a CPR overflow. The largest model with twin 1" intakes. 1500-1600 gph or so.

3). Get a big sump and wet/dry with dual trickle towers..each CPR intake would feed one tower.

4). Use a mag drive (Mag2400?) in the sump for the return to tank. These are quiet and reliable and it only needs to push water. I would have nothing in line with or ahead of it.

5). C02 would go into the sump. Just an internal needle wheel :) This gets picked up by the sump pump back to tank.

6). Perhaps use ONE Eheim pro as additional filtration and a bit of backup. Plus it has the builtin heater in case it gets chilly...

Tom has shown me some great scapes where emergent growth was used to hide the overflow and I was really impressed. I am doing it on a small level to hide my loc-line, but this was another level entirely...

One of my hops with a new scape was for some emergent growth that would perhaps flower?

I had thought already of some type of vine climbing any tubes, but his ideas and stuff blew me away...

So, since my aesthetics issues can be resolved with some effort and a wet/dry is better for fish and plants.....

I think this may be the way to go...

Each decision really impacts others, so each major change requires a review of the entire project to ensure I didn't miss something...

But, the filtration is pretty important (lol) and I need to get it right..

The funny thing is I will have come full circle as when I joined the site years ago I HAD a sump and switched to closed loop in my search for good c02...

Now I will have a combo...
 
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