Over 20+ years into aquariums I have never ever had a stable dosing regime. Never! after all that time. Yes soil would deplete and I would add fertz but never consistently. Deficiencies seem hard to get as the soil would always have nutrients or the water column would always have enough nutrients. That's why I have purchased nilocg's liquid fertilizers, not thrive or anything with urea or nh4, this way I can keep on a stable regime. No pain of weighing and dry dosing.
I saw a video on facebook of Japan planting a forest of trees in a circular motion. The trees inward and closer to each other grew smaller, and the trees outward had more space and got more resources easier and grew a lot bigger. So got me thinking, if you want to see a plant that you love at its full potential plant it and give it space. I suppose you can combat the idea with higher light as well. But crowding will limit access to resources, nutrients co2 etc.
Spread of light is way more important than intensity. I've grown stuff in the lowest of lightings which are supposedly high lighting plants. The case in which you need more intensity is only with red plants. But if you overdo things like co2 or N they definitely can revert to green. Lowest of pars will grow most all plants if there is good spread of lighting.
Theres a certain point in time where plants will root in and help to absorb everything that's in the water quicker and better than non rooted plants. I have seen topping plants and replanting these tops in redoing my tank that they're more susceptible to algae rather than rooted plants.When redoing a tank a large water change is very helpful but rooted plants are a lot stronger than non rooted plants.
BBA, i'm not sure of the cause of this damn algae, but it seems mostly light driven. Plants like moss and buces or """low""" light plants are very more prone to getting it in higher light tanks. Closer to the light the more bba I get. I don't think organics is the cause anymore as my tank was packed full of mulm and I had a bba side wall and it just slowly went away, organics was not being tackled at the time. It could of been microorganisms that ate it off, but who knows. Manual removal, microorganisms, or chems to get rid of it. I don't know how it comes about but one thing I know for sure, cause of bba is not from lack of co2. It is the idea that healthy plants=no algae, but I've seen both growing coexisting at the same time just fine. Maybe its a well stocked tank full, u can get away with more, initial investment or your going to fail. Investment on good everything, good filter, good regulator, good lighting, well actually no, the lighting you can do cheapo and still do well.
organics/mulm tank full
I don't know why people don't surface agitate. Not much co2 is degassed and the system always benefits from more o2 gas exchange. I've seen algae growing faster when water was raised and no agitation. I see poor advice for co2, saying dial it up till your fish gasp, then dial it down, what a sick test to do with your fish, I'm a hypocrite though in this concept as I have gassed a lot of fish in the past, LOTs. Reactors are always the way to go in my opinion. I do not like atomizers or diffusers anymore, I really do wonder how the fish are, swimming in a swarm of co2 bubbles.
Lastly eriocaulon sectaceums can't have the bottom grow sideshoots and be topped. Only the crown will split and then you can divide.