Mostly sediment because I was an idiot and didn't wash my sand enough and all the flow doesn't let it settle. (I am trying to do a riffle tank) There is a lot of dead plant material too, since most of the plants melted after initial planting. I haven't had a fish die.
Vacuuming is difficult with plants especially since most of them haven't fully developed their roots yet.
I just DIY'ed a temporary canister filter out of a phosban reactor and some filter floss for the time being. I have a diatom filter at my parent's house too so I will probably go get it next week.
I'll look at investing in a proper canister filter if these things don't work. I just didn't really want a canister filter on the tank full time because I was under the impression that they are not needed for a planted tank.
change the water on a regular interval and use some water conditioners to remove any kind of chemicals like chlorine and ammonia..this will keep water free of turbidity.
Water changes and those quick powerhead filters work well, they sell the 5 micron size water filters most anywhere and then you hook a powerhead to one end and then cap the other.
Cheap and effective.
Water changes and those quick powerhead filters work well, they sell the 5 micron size water filters most anywhere and then you hook a powerhead to one end and then cap the other.
Cheap and effective.
Similar to Tom, if you use a wet/dry I have a bypass to a whole house filter with a micron cartridge inside my wet/dry. I run that bypass after water changes and presto sparkling water. I see no reason why this could not be used in closed system as well. Another well know option for wet/dry user's are the white micron pads you place over the drip-plate. There o.k but expensive in the long run. So many good reasons to choose a wet/dry.
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