Pearlweed & H. Aromatics Leaves Becoming Trancelucent

nanomania

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Jul 24, 2020
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When i got them, they were doing great and growing fast. Since my gh was only 3, i started dosing seachem equilibrium, as per dosage, since 2 weeks. Other than that, i dose flourish excel less than 50% of the recomended dose.

On monday i target dosed h2o2 for bba. Is that the reason? Rest of my plants are doing fantastic.

Im dosing co2, 2.5bps for 7hrs in my 150 liter tank.

Lighting high 6hrs daily.

Tropica premium as fert.

No3 20-25
Ph 7.5-6.7
Gh 4
Kh 1

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Deanna

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Aug 23, 2018
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When i got them, they were doing great and growing fast. Since my gh was only 3, i started dosing seachem equilibrium, as per dosage, since 2 weeks. Other than that, i dose flourish excel less than 50% of the recomended dose.

On monday i target dosed h2o2 for bba. Is that the reason? Rest of my plants are doing fantastic.

Im dosing co2, 2.5bps for 7hrs in my 150 liter tank.

Lighting high 6hrs daily.

Tropica premium as fert.

No3 20-25
Ph 7.5-6.7
Gh 4
Kh 1

A couple of things stick out, but can you provide the information I’ve outlined, below?

In the meantime, based upon what you have provided, here are the early suggestions:

1) CO2 appears to be low. If your dKH and pH readings are correct, they indicate a reading of about 6ppm CO2 when fully gassed. Generally, we prefer to see about 30ppm in a high-tech tank. Using bps is not a good way to determine CO2 levels. To be more certain of achieving 30ppm, increase CO2 until you achieve a full 1-point drop in pH from your fully de-gassed water. Do this slowly over several days to allow fish to acclimate. Let a glass of tank water sit out for a few days to de-gas it. Make sure that the dKH of your tank water and the test water is identical and then compare the test water pH to the tanks’ pH about 2 hours after CO2 injection begins. Many of us go higher than a 1-point drop.

2) Excel is not needed if CO2 is injected at appropriate rates. It is good as an algaecide, but it would be better to try to first eliminate algae with good plant health. The H2O2 shouldn’t harm the plants if target dosing as you did but, again, better to focus on getting healthy plants, first.

Further information that would help:

- Light (make & model): ideally, PAR and PUR reading at the substrate? Is the 6 hours the total photoperiod or just at the highest setting?
- CO2 setup: is it pressurized or DIY? How is it timed with your photoperiod?
- Current PO4 and TDS readings and which test kits/devices are used for each of your tests?
- What you are dosing (product and quantity), in terms of ppm, and how often? This calculator may help: https://rotalabutterfly.com/
- Substrate type and how long has it been in place?
- What is your filter setup?
- Cleaning regimen (filter and water change frequency and amount)?
- Circulation: surface rippling and are all plants gently moving from top to bottom?
- What is your water source and do you use a water softener?
 
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nanomania

Member
Jul 24, 2020
68
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Mumbai, Maharashtra, India
A couple of things stick out, but can you provide the information I’ve outlined, below?

In the meantime, based upon what you have provided, here are the early suggestions:

1) CO2 appears to be low. If your dKH and pH readings are correct, they indicate a reading of about 6ppm CO2 when fully gassed. Generally, we prefer to see about 30ppm in a high-tech tank. Using bps is not a good way to determine CO2 levels. To be more certain of achieving 30ppm, increase CO2 until you achieve a full 1-point drop in pH from your fully de-gassed water. Do this slowly over several days to allow fish to acclimate. Let a glass of tank water sit out for a few days to de-gas it. Make sure that the dKH of your tank water and the test water is identical and then compare the test water pH to the tanks’ pH about 2 hours after CO2 injection begins. Many of us go higher than a 1-point drop.

2) Excel is not needed if CO2 is injected at appropriate rates. It is good as an algaecide, but it would be better to try to first eliminate algae with good plant health. The H2O2 shouldn’t harm the plants if target dosing as you did but, again, better to focus on getting healthy plants, first.

Further information that would help:

- Light (make & model): ideally, PAR and PUR reading at the substrate? Is the 6 hours the total photoperiod or just at the highest setting?
- CO2 setup: is it pressurized or DIY? How is it timed with your photoperiod?
- Current PO4 and TDS readings and which test kits/devices are used for each of your tests?
- What you are dosing (product and quantity), in terms of ppm, and how often? This calculator may help: https://rotalabutterfly.com/
- Substrate type and how long has it been in place?
- What is your filter setup?
- Cleaning regimen (filter and water change frequency and amount)?
- Circulation: surface rippling and are all plants gently moving from top to bottom?
- What is your water source and do you use a water softener?
Do we get co2 test kit?

As per my checker, before co2 my tank water ph is 7.5, after injection while shutting its 6.7.

Co2: 2hrs before lights on till 1hr before lights off.

Light is chihiros 601+ & sunsun ADE 500 full intensity, for 6hrs in total.

I also dose seachem equilibrium every wc, once a week (60%wc)

Im using API test kits, and i have never measured po4 as my no3 is 25, so never got 1. As per kh testkit, first drop the colour is yellow, so im guessing 1.

I would like to add that both plants were growing like weed before, so i dont know whats the issue, the only thing changed was added h2o2.

Today i have made an 80%wc and have only added equilibrium and tropica fert as usual, no h2o2 or excel.



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nanomania

Member
Jul 24, 2020
68
4
8
Mumbai, Maharashtra, India
A couple of things stick out, but can you provide the information I’ve outlined, below?

In the meantime, based upon what you have provided, here are the early suggestions:

1) CO2 appears to be low. If your dKH and pH readings are correct, they indicate a reading of about 6ppm CO2 when fully gassed. Generally, we prefer to see about 30ppm in a high-tech tank. Using bps is not a good way to determine CO2 levels. To be more certain of achieving 30ppm, increase CO2 until you achieve a full 1-point drop in pH from your fully de-gassed water. Do this slowly over several days to allow fish to acclimate. Let a glass of tank water sit out for a few days to de-gas it. Make sure that the dKH of your tank water and the test water is identical and then compare the test water pH to the tanks’ pH about 2 hours after CO2 injection begins. Many of us go higher than a 1-point drop.

2) Excel is not needed if CO2 is injected at appropriate rates. It is good as an algaecide, but it would be better to try to first eliminate algae with good plant health. The H2O2 shouldn’t harm the plants if target dosing as you did but, again, better to focus on getting healthy plants, first.

Further information that would help:

- Light (make & model): ideally, PAR and PUR reading at the substrate? Is the 6 hours the total photoperiod or just at the highest setting?
- CO2 setup: is it pressurized or DIY? How is it timed with your photoperiod?
- Current PO4 and TDS readings and which test kits/devices are used for each of your tests?
- What you are dosing (product and quantity), in terms of ppm, and how often? This calculator may help: https://rotalabutterfly.com/
- Substrate type and how long has it been in place?
- What is your filter setup?
- Cleaning regimen (filter and water change frequency and amount)?
- Circulation: surface rippling and are all plants gently moving from top to bottom?
- What is your water source and do you use a water softener?
I use tap water.
Tds 200 of tank and tapwater 90.

Black earth soil by CAL aqualabs

Filteration is 2 hob canisters 550lph
1 surface skimmer 350lph

Dosing increased from 10ml weekly to 14ml. Tropica premium.

All plants dping fantastic except the 2 mentioned.

As for pearl weed i still see new growth, but the other one is still stunted and melting.
ca393b1e2928faee7d60500616f658c3.jpg


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Deanna

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Aug 23, 2018
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No, there are no inexpensive CO2 test kits for our hobby. Drop checkers can be misleading. I would still follow the pH test to achieve the 1-point drop.

Your lighting seems good and gas exchange looks like it is good. I assume that your tank is being kept clean and water changes are being performed regularly and you are cleaning your filters regularly (I clean mine every other week).

Your substrate is likely providing most of the nutrients needed (I’d still check PO4, along with NO3). It looks like the substrate may be responsible for some of the acidity. What is the pH reading of your tap water and do you use a water softener?

The Equilibrium and Tropica Premium should fill any gaps that the substrate might have. All in all, your nutrients look good. However, if all else fails - don’t do it yet - you can add up to three times more Tropica Premium and still be within EI limits. This would be to test for any nutrient deficiencies. Again, do the other things first and wait at least a month until you are sure that deterioration is continuing, despite the other suggestions being implemented, before testing the additional Tropica dosing.

Translucent leaves can be many things, but CO2 and nitrogen are the first things I would address. Your nitrogen doesn’t seem to be an issue. Pearlweed should be no issue almost regardless of the type of setup - it is such a forgiving and easy-grow plant. I’m not familiar with “H. Aromatics.” When were these plants planted?
 
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nanomania

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Jul 24, 2020
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Mumbai, Maharashtra, India
No, there are no inexpensive CO2 test kits for our hobby. Drop checkers can be misleading. I would still follow the pH test to achieve the 1-point drop.

Your lighting seems good and gas exchange looks like it is good. I assume that your tank is being kept clean and water changes are being performed regularly and you are cleaning your filters regularly (I clean mine every other week).

Your substrate is likely providing most of the nutrients needed (I’d still check PO4, along with NO3). It looks like the substrate may be responsible for some of the acidity. What is the pH reading of your tap water and do you use a water softener?

The Equilibrium and Tropica Premium should fill any gaps that the substrate might have. All in all, your nutrients look good. However, if all else fails - don’t do it yet - you can add up to three times more Tropica Premium and still be within EI limits. This would be to test for any nutrient deficiencies. Again, do the other things first and wait at least a month until you are sure that deterioration is continuing, despite the other suggestions being implemented, before testing the additional Tropica dosing.

Translucent leaves can be many things, but CO2 and nitrogen are the first things I would address. Your nitrogen doesn’t seem to be an issue. Pearlweed should be no issue almost regardless of the type of setup - it is such a forgiving and easy-grow plant. I’m not familiar with “H. Aromatics.” When were these plants planted?
H. Aromatics 30sep (was very slow anyways)
Pearlweed 20sep (was really fast, doubled in 2 weeks)

Should i buy po4 testkit?

Tropica planning to double the dose, recomended was 10ml per 100l, i increased to 14ml, now will do 20ml.

I have kept marine tanks for many years, so i know that my tap water ph was always high, like 7.5, so iv never faced low ph issue.

Do u recommend buying potassium testkit and iron test kit?

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Deanna

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Aug 23, 2018
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H. Aromatics 30sep (was very slow anyways)
Pearlweed 20sep (was really fast, doubled in 2 weeks)

Should i buy po4 testkit?

Tropica planning to double the dose, recomended was 10ml per 100l, i increased to 14ml, now will do 20ml.

I have kept marine tanks for many years, so i know that my tap water ph was always high, like 7.5, so iv never faced low ph issue.

Do u recommend buying potassium testkit and iron test kit?

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Yes: use a PO4 test kit. although I usr potassium and iron test kits, they are not as important as measuring NO3 and PO4, so long as you dose them per directions. If you decide to buy them, I prefer the Salifert freshwater potassium kit and the Nutrafin iron kit.

I'm not sure that you fully understand my comments about measuring pH drops. Please review those comments. By ensuring an accurate 1-point drop in your water - as a function of adding CO2 - you are ensuring the accepted ideal of 30ppm CO2 levels in your tank.
 
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nanomania

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Jul 24, 2020
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Yes: use a PO4 test kit. although I usr potassium and iron test kits, they are not as important as measuring NO3 and PO4, so long as you dose them per directions. If you decide to buy them, I prefer the Salifert freshwater potassium kit and the Nutrafin iron kit.

I'm not sure that you fully understand my comments about measuring pH drops. Please review those comments. By ensuring an accurate 1-point drop in your water - as a function of adding CO2 - you are ensuring the accepted ideal of 30ppm CO2 levels in your tank.
Yes, forgot to mention, that im buying ph test kit too. However iv increased bps to 3bps.

One last que., is it ok to slowly dose equilibrium over a week?

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Deanna

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Yes, forgot to mention, that im buying ph test kit too. However iv increased bps to 3bps.

One last que., is it ok to slowly dose equilibrium over a week?

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Yes, it is "ok" to slowly dose Equilibrium over a week. However, I prefer to add the Equilibrium (actually, I dose the components that are contained in Equlibrium) after a water change because the components in Equilibrium (mainly K, Ca and Mg) highly affect TDS. Significant changes in TDS can stress fish. It's a minor issue but, since I can do it, I do.
 
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nanomania

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Yes, it is "ok" to slowly dose Equilibrium over a week. However, I prefer to add the Equilibrium (actually, I dose the components that are contained in Equlibrium) after a water change because the components in Equilibrium (mainly K, Ca and Mg) highly affect TDS. Significant changes in TDS can stress fish. It's a minor issue but, since I can do it, I do.
Have noticed some recovery. Today i did a wc, i added only 1 tsp instead of 1 tbsp which i use to dose before. Will wait for a week.

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nanomania

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Just got my po4 test kit, its 0..[emoji85] im ordering K2HPo4, confused with dosing. My plan is to maintain po4 at 2ppm. Im confused with rotala calc. As what would be the daily dosage?

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Deanna

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Just got my po4 test kit, its 0..[emoji85] im ordering K2HPo4, confused with dosing. My plan is to maintain po4 at 2ppm. Im confused with rotala calc. As what would be the daily dosage?

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I’ll explain the calculator use by way of an example.

Put your 150L into the calculator and select the DIY button. From the compound list, select the K2HPO4. I would use 135L, since you probably don't have 150L of water in the tank due to displacement issues. I assume that you are dry dosing (adding the powder to your tank), so choose that button.

In the “I am calculating for” drop down, select “Dose to reach a target”, since you are targeting 2ppm PO4 and put 2 into the “My target is” slot. Press “Calculate” and you will see how much you need to add.

I would add this full amount all at once, then monitor to see how much is consumed over a week. That will give you an idea of how much you will need to add weekly to maintain the 2ppm. Once you know the weekly maintenance amount needed, you can divide it by 7 to get your daily dosing. Again, though, just adding enough after a water change is fine - daily dosing won’t make much of a difference.
 
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nanomania

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I’ll explain the calculator use by way of an example.

Put your 150L into the calculator and select the DIY button. From the compound list, select the K2HPO4. I assume that you are dry dosing (adding the powder to your tank), so choose that button.

In the “I am calculating for” drop down, select “Dose to reach a target”, since you are targeting 2ppm PO4 and put 2 into the “My target is” slot. Press “Calculate” and you will see how much you need to add.

I would add this full amount all at once, then monitor to see how much is consumed over a week. That will give you an idea of how much you will need to add weekly to maintain the 2ppm. Once you know the weekly maintenance amount needed, you can divide it by 7 to get your daily dosing. Again, though, just adding enough after a water change is fine - daily dosing won’t make much of a difference.
Actual Water volume is 105 liter

Planning to dose liquid, will be easier.

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Deanna

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Actual Water volume is 105 liter

Planning to dose liquid, will be easier.

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Then switch the button from “Dry dosing” to “A solution”. Then, fill in the “Container size”, which is the container you are using for the fertilizer solution you make, and “Dose size”, which is the liquid quantity you want to dose from that fertilizer container. For example; I use a pump that doses in 2.5ml quantities so, if I select two pumps for my dosing, I would put 5ml into the “Dose size”.

When calculating for a solution, you have to be careful about solubility limits of the various fertilizers. The calculator will give you an alert, when you hit “Calculate”, if you are over the limit. You would then need to adjust the size of the container and/or the dose size.
 
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nanomania

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Then switch the button from “Dry dosing” to “A solution”. Then, fill in the “Container size”, which is the container you are using for the fertilizer solution you make, and “Dose size”, which is the liquid quantity you want to dose from that fertilizer container. For example; I use a pump that doses in 2.5ml quantities so, if I select two pumps for my dosing, I would put 5ml into the “Dose size”.

When calculating for a solution, you have to be careful about solubility limits of the various fertilizers. The calculator will give you an alert, when you hit “Calculate”, if you are over the limit. You would then need to adjust the size of the container and/or the dose size.
My tank is 150l, but water volume is 105l.

Using a spare tropica 125ml bottle.

If u select EI, it shows only 1.3ppm needed. And for EI daily, it shows 0.6ppm

Here is the screenshot for 2ppm.
801324c2442b0833965a17acf73d57ea.jpg


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nanomania

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Should i be concerned about dosing excel and equilibrium? As far as i remember, the melting started after equilibrium. It other tanks, i have alot of salt creeps, so I guess i do haveAlso battling some staghorn algae. Planning to add some SAE. calcium, maybe the API is faulty?

Also i have a dump tank (24x12x12")no co2 dosing just one pump weekly tropica premium, low light, 20% wc weekly, but nothing is melting. Just has few shrimps and snails.



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Deanna

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Aug 23, 2018
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Should i be concerned about dosing excel and equilibrium? As far as i remember, the melting started after equilibrium. It other tanks, i have alot of salt creeps, so I guess i do haveAlso battling some staghorn algae. Planning to add some SAE. calcium, maybe the API is faulty?

Also i have a dump tank (24x12x12")no co2 dosing just one pump weekly tropica premium, low light, 20% wc weekly, but nothing is melting. Just has few shrimps and snails.



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Excel is not needed for plants if you are injecting CO2 at sufficient rates. If you are using Excel as an algaecide for red algae (BBA and other hair-type algae), you will need to dose it at the recommended dosing, at a minimum. However, there are better ways to control algae, unless you have a problem outbreak. It is not effective against GWA, GSA and GDA.

When Excel is dosed daily, as per instructions, it may melt Anacharis (Egeria/Elodia), Vals, Duckweed and Marimo moss balls (which are a form of algae). These plants can be trained to use it if adapted slowly by not doing the recommended “initial” weekly dose and then just half-dosing every other day, gradually building up to recommended levels. Vals, for example, will initially melt and then re-grow fully acclimated to it.

Adding Equilibrium will not be a problem, if not overdosed. Your GH reading of 4 dGH indicates that you are far from overdosing. If you think there is a problem with the API test kit, first check the expiration date on the API kit. If it is good, you can do a rough calibration to check that it is working by adding 890mg (approx. 1/8 teaspoon) of Equilibrium to 1 gallon of distilled water. The API test result should then be in the 4 dGH area.
 
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